Kodename47

Take off, dry out, clean gasket and mounting point on car and reapply properly; not too much pressure on the gasket, even tightening on all bolts.

Goodwood soon, ay @Subota Boy

All these lights require you to swap bulbs so if your car has the OEM HID lights you need the HID type headlights. Japan is RHD and most of these lights are from the Japanese markets anyway. Link: https://www.google.co.uk/search?safe=off&ei=dfB4WuO5GqybgAaV8rDQCA&q=crystaleye+Toyota+86+headlight&oq=crystaleye+Toyota+86+headlight&gs_l=psy-ab.3..33i21k1l2j33i160k1.11788.15455.0.16585.10.10.0.0.0.0.90.752.10.10.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.9.667...0i22i30k1.0.GqsZuB8SnD0

Spotted a CS in Hastings today, wondered if it was yours but it was a 17 and no stripes. I'll just add that I think the guys at Motorline in Tunbridge Wells are pretty good for aftercare. Never had any issues there at all.

You have to be aware whether they are LHD/RHD and whether HID or projectors. @JRot has them, but the JDM ones so confirmed for RHD. Apart from the differences noted above, all 86 and BRZ lights have the same fit and mountings, even the facelift MY17 models.

I've just had a look at the spec sheet for the oil I use, it states "Suitable for operating at 130oC with peak temperatures up to 150oC." I'd probably struggle to get it to 150C. I was discussing oil pressures with @Mark@Abbey M/S recently, the FA20 has a shared oil journal for the 2 centre rods IIRC and this is where you will have issues when the pressure drops enough and it can't supply enough oil for both bearings. That's if they aren't blocked by the excessive sealant that the assembly line seems to apply and is being more commonly reported as engine failure causes recently.

But it's not really the temperature that's the issue, was more my point. Let's, for example, pick a top of the range oil designed for high temp use. At 130C and 6k RPM after 2 laps, a 0W20 is at 50psi, 0W30 at 80psi, 5W40 is 95psi. Out of those, the temperature on the 0W20 is an issue as the pressure is dropping, the 0W30 is probably on it's limits but the 5W40 is still capable of more abuse. Yes this car could do with more oil cooling, but I would be more concerned with oil pressure than peak temperatures. Knowing the relationship between those 2 with what you run is where you want to be at. Any track car should be running an oil pressure gauge IMO.

Why not take the bulbs off and see what happens? Getting the bubs in/out is a 10 min job, then if the fuses stop blowing you know it's the fogs. If it's the only thing that's been changes then it's the 1st place I'd be looking to prove.

But they are basically the Porsche ones, but with bolt-on fit and a hefty mark up. Proper ventilation is costly, Verus (ex-Velox) make some top notch engineering solutions but you pay for it. I have yet to see anyone over here match the quality or R&D they put into any of their parts. Don't bother with a LWCP, they are such a small proportion of the rotational weight of the engine that I doubt you'd really notice any difference unless just free revving in neutral. Plus the possible (but non-proven) issues due to loss of harmonic damping. You'd be better off going for a Fluidampr but for the cost I'm not sure it's worth it over stock. Oil pressure is more an issue on the FA20, temps are not an issue but pressure does drop off when the oil gets hot. Best option no 1 is to use a thicker oil. As @Lauren said, modern oils aren't such an issue with temperatures and degradation especially if you use a decent oil. Engine mounts. STi or TRD ones are likely to be the same, hardened rubber over OEM but reports are not much added NVH. Cusco ones are also available, possibly cheaper but are harder again and reports are it's noticeable in the cabin. Recently I discovered that Hardrace make some, they will be comparable priced and probably between the STi/TRD and Cusco for hardness. I had Hardrace bushes on my EK9 and were often chosen due to the quality. When I go for engine mounts then this will be my route.

That looks like Tunbridge Wells Motorline?

I'm assuming that is a fitted price? What would the cost be for delivered system elsewhere?

CC: Push the button on the end to enable/disable it, the CC light will come on. Then you need to push it down to enable, up to restore, towards to cancel. SET appears on the dash when active. It's all ECU controlled so if the speed set light is coming on it can't not work without accompanying CEL. Otherwise I would look at a faulty switch, but you're not saying it's that.

I'll undoubtedly see you then, I live near Paragon Porsche. Loads of GT86s around here, but yours will be easy to spot.

Modern decent oil will protect better and last longer at higher temps than older oils. The issue is that with high temps you see the oil pressures drop and that is really more key than a temperature limit. Standard OW20 oils will likely be thinner at higher temps than a thicker oil, so a 5W30 oil would give you better pressures under extended running.

Around £250. Yes, you would need a remap as well to make the most of it.

The downside is that the EcuTek BT-EVI is pricey, you need it for the app and it doesn't work with 3rd party apps either. These are old videos, so there is better functionality that there was back in September

OK so what are you trying to achieve? Possibly the more qualified to answer here as I play with the ECU and know it's parameters well. We have a MAP sensor. In stock form it's limited to 1.36 bar (0.36 bar boost) but most would replace this when going turbo as boost control/safety will be ideally added when it's mapped. MAP output is available and will give you the whole sensor range that is added. If you're going EcuTek, then I would just advise getting their BT-EVI which is used with their ECU Connect app, see below at what I do with that The bonus is that you get far greater logging capabilities, both in parameters and speed, than any alternatives on a phone/tablet/HU. Plus you could have adjustable boost control etc on it. With EcuTek you can also add a couple of sensors and then these can be output in the custom setups. No need for adding additional Canbus info.

Yes. Shown as the inner gauge circle on the MY12 and the lower left segment in the MY17 as per the genuine dash. Seems that maximum logged value is about ~60 so I've set the gauge to suit.

Don't use my overlays. Not a problem I'm clearly not catering for you and it's easy enough to create your own similar to the video posted, but that wasn't the point of my post. What you want is available out there already, this wasn't. Whether that is what you want or not isn't really of any matter.

You can resize them in the video, you're not limited. And if you want any of the rest of what you wrote, you can pick from any of the other basic gauges that DashWare comes with. I just tried to recreate the GT86 ones. Watch this demo video in full screen, much of the data channels weren't logged and I've made changes since, and tell me it's hard to read Don't forget this is for video playback (basically Youtube) and not in car apps. I did do a water/IAT/Oil temp bar charts but who is going to care about that on Social media @Mike I wouldn't worry about the Pi, Dashaware is so simple to add the components and sync them up. I had my 1st test video combined in 10 mins. Just need the video (mp4 etc) and the csv file. You can even combine multiple videos and csv files (eg. Torque and separate GPS apps/devices). http://www.dashware.net/videos/synchronization-tutorial-sample-file-download/

Just to add, change spring and/or camber bolts and you'll need a wheel alignment done.

Will keep an eye out for it, yet to see one of the CS on the road.

As I said on the other side, depends on what the tuner sets it to. Its not normal for my tune to do that, but then I'm not your tuner

Not personally used but comes well recommended on here is Phil at Tintinit https://www.facebook.com/tintinit/

Always the high and mighty..... It's actually quite a good feature if set up well, whether you can or can't drive. Surprisingly many cars these days come with this feature. IDGAF about H&T.....must mean I'm a poor driver (I used H&T all the time in my EK9 FWIW, much nicer pedal setup). Alternatively the ECU kind of does it for you anyway. The 95 style maps are only really there for giving it beans on low RON fuel, but the OEM knock system should take care of that. On an NA car I'd say it's a non-issue/ Cruising will never be an issue no matter what RON you run.