Kodename47

Mishi Catch can (not GT86 specific) & Beatrush underpanel are on my immediate wishlist. I'd have the Cusco headlight level thing too if it beats the price of Fensport's.

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/velox-slanted-hood-louver-vents-kit-2013-ft86.html http://www.86worx.com/beatrush-underpanel.html The back end of the bonnet is at incorrect pressure for getting air out. Side vent would work, but a lot of effort and very few actually are vented. What specifically are you trying to resolve? Oil/Coolant/just the fact it feels warm? Also setup will play a big factor, exposed manifolds, turbo etc.

Depending on what you bought, most are stick over the OEM rather than replace.

How do they help cooling? Unless the internal vanes are much improved, which I doubt at this price, then the difference in heat capacity would be minimal. Surface grooves help pad bite and material clearing not cooling

Edited post.... I forgot bottles were 500ml not a litre. I know that higher boiling point fluid is ideal in a perfect world, but if OEM fluid wan't an issue with standard braking kit for you then I'd say any of these are well suited especially if going for a BBK. I tend to prefer Millers as it's a UK based operation, when I had my fluid changed at Abbey they use it as the default performance option so I assume that Mark also uses it on his Nissan race car. I also note that the 300+ has this on the spec sheet: Extended performance DOT 4 + formulation suitable for high performance road cars, track day and competition use. Robust against water absorption, improving resistance to vapour lock. I think that it comes at the right price per spec and unless you're going for ultra high performance fluid at much higher cost I can't see much point using anything else. The RBF fluids warn about moisture absorption on their spec sheet, which I would suggest makes it less than ideal for permanent road use.

Just popped over to the Millers Website and they do a Performance 5.1: Dry Boiling Point 272°C Wet Boiling Point 185°C Compared to the 300+: Equilibrium Reflux Boiling Point Above 310°C Wet Equilibrium Boiling Point Above 194°C The 5.1 is around £10 per 500ml.

How about Miller's 300+? Seems on par with the above, just Americans don't use Miller's stuff (oils and brake fluid), presumably as it's UK based and rare over there.

DBA discs have improved cooling vanes, but are expensive. However as an optimum "OEM" setup I'd look into them. As Kev runs them, there's added weight behind that suggestion over and above what I've read. Stoptech Centric discs apparently are somewhere between the OEM and DBA but cannot confirm. I would also look into running a dual pad setup and then no compromise on track and then you can run more aggressive compounds.

Some of that track behavior is shocking At one point, 3 abreast round a corner. I'm shocked there was no car to car contact in any of those clips. None of that would be allowed on a normal trackday. I wonder how many are showing off due to the crowds too.

Manual adjustment?

Are you sure that both motors failed? Or has something happened to the level adjuster sensor under the car?

Beneficial, yes. Necessary., not at all. You'd have to factor in whether the extra small bump of torque would be worth the cost of a remap again. The exhaust would free up some performance without any changes to the tune.

I would agree. If it's coming on any time other than when the RPM drops well below standard idle speed then this is a good indication of genuine low pressure and possible bearing issues. Is there any form of leak around where the oil pressure sensor is? How is your oil pressure gauge plumbed in?

Is this not the same as the HT Auto kits? For that price I'd be looking there.

Look here for some ideas: Those will tend to be US and Japanese offerings.

Coming from her A3, the Mrs claims that the 86 steering is heavy. Getting into her Audi I struggle to keep it straight on the road as the steering is so light. A bit of weight adds feel....

Irony....

You want the lightest large radius tyre and wheel combination as possible. Going down a size isn't necessarily going to improve acceleration but you'll cover less distance per rev.

Doesn't seem to be at the moment, I've been collared for small value items twice in the last few months. Both times the duty and tax was ~70% the cost of the item (duty is the PITA), both times from the USA and I didn't think they'd bother based on the value and that they were small packages. I'd say they're getting hotter on it now.

I had a look on AE. Did all the parts you buy come from TPIC? Seems like there are 2 other similar manufacturers at similar prices, Airspeed and 3Noric. One of those might be worth a shot if anyone wants to try. See if either has decent feedback.

Read this? http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78902

No, that was the low spec car in Japan and Australia IIRC. The base FR-S was a bit of an odd one with regards to spec that we know as that mechanically it was a top spec car but had the lower interior and exterior trim we had in the UK/EU.

He's based in Europe so is LHD

I'd guess that this is the reasoning behind their decision, they were the go to for forum users and therefore high traffic demands with very little income was obviously becoming detrimental. IMO they really needed to start charging earlier which would have prevented this prohibitive high cost they have now introduced.

Just to clarify, it's not the leaning of the mixture that gives the power increase but it is one of the things that happens due to the change of the airflow over the sensor.