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Everything posted by Kodename47
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I still want the actual GRMN 86: Had actual performance enhancing mods (variable intake manifold anyone??) and much better than the GT86 GR. Shame that getting one imported will be crazy money.
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As I wrote on another thread, on the grey (which I have) I would consider black, silver or gold. Tie this in with the colour choice of wheel. You could potentially go yellow if standing out is your thing, I just prefer subtle.
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Hydrodipping carbon effect is likely to look cheap, I've seen some 1st hand and it looked crap. However if used for other patterns or styles it can be done well. You could get decent vinyl wrap or actual CF parts if that's your thing and would look better. Also "genuine carbon effect" is a contradiction. Either it's carbon effect or genuine carbon fibre Again I wouldn't bother going down the cheap route on external parts as they will weather badly.
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With the Grey I think black, silver or gold would look good on the calipers, the less visible the better IMO. I don't think the red really works and everyone paints calipers Brembo red these days. Yellow would be another possible choice that would suit the colour of the car if you wanted to stand out.
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I have used the Paints4u stuff on my rear light covers, not bad for a spray can. Wasn't available when I ordered some more.
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Intervals are 1 year or 10k. So treat it as your 20k service. Mine's about to have it's "50k" year 5 at barely over 20k miles.
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61K is a Subaru colour. Where did you get your spray paint from?
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[Europe] Good exhaust note for less than 700€? Or something else?
Kodename47 replied to Blameshift's topic in Modifications
H&S are a well known exhaust fabricator, look on their website for what else they do. It also sounds much better IMO. Cobra is just deep and bassy where as the H&S has a great tone to it. The only exhaust that I think sounds better is the Cosworth. -
[Europe] Good exhaust note for less than 700€? Or something else?
Kodename47 replied to Blameshift's topic in Modifications
https://www.haywardandscott.com/subaru/subaru-brz/subaru-brz-cat-back-system.html That over the Cobra if you want something that sounds good. -
Tried to use this today and got a Paypal Wallet Issue so had to pay in the shop as per normal. Has anyone else had this? I can't find any recent results on this, all date back to 2015 for the similar issue. This is the 1st time I've tried to use the app to pay as well.
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Anyone with an EcuTek cable could do this for you. If you're selling the car on then get it flashed back to stock file, it'd be too aggressive to run on the OEM manifold.
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- Full Manifold back exhaust - Tick - UEL header - Tick - Some sort of better air intake (not sure on this one, without a turbo how could we improve the air ?) - No point, change the air filter - Upgraded fuel pump - No - Both sets of injectors are not fuel limited - Upgraded, bigger fuel injectors - No - See above - Some sort of Air/Fuel regulator / Piggy back ECU? - Remap - Tick - Better gapped spark plugs - OEM spark plugs are fine for NA and mild FI - A different Thermostat? - Debatable
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Good choice. Having driven the M235i and M4 on track, I would concur that for a road car purchase the M235i would be my preference. It's also more enjoyable on the track too and a cracking turbo motor. Having been disappointed with not being able to have a go in the M2 the M-lite was an absolute surprise. I drove the manual version but could see the appeal for an auto for your commute. The instructors were very praising of the auto M135i they had and now BMW are moving toward this gearbox on their full M cars anyway. The only options I would like on one if I bought one was the M-Performance lip kit, I think it makes a decent difference to the standard M-Sport kit and makes it that more typical M car in looks. Will also nicely contrast with that colour.
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Don't forget that you don't need to cover the whole cost of the car. As the excess is so large you could insure for £5-10k less as the likely hood of doing £25k of damage (I assume by the excess) is unlikely unless you roll and total the car in a fireball. It will also make the excess smaller. Think of it this way, a front or rear end shunt is unlikely to ever cost over £15k to repair. A cosmetic shunt is probably only going to run up to £10k worth of repairs at the worst.
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It all depends on type of dyno, setup, ramp duration, gear selection, tyre pressures if a rolling road plus environmental factors (which can be relatively negated if using SAE compensations) I've seen the same car produce different graphs if just the dyno ramp duration is changed for example. I'm honestly surprised that this makes power seeing as in the States the were shown to make about 10whp on a supercharged car. The same company was going to test larger TBs on a N/A car about a year ago, they never posted any results other than stating throttle response was improved, which is kind of obvious unless you remap the throttle, and hinted that the gains were pretty much negligible. Lets not forget that the OEM TB is much larger than most 2 litre N/A cars to start with at 65mm. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=brz+throttle+body+site:www.ft86club.com&safe=off&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiAt__fz_DVAhWMIMAKHYuTBC8QrQIIMygEMAA&biw=1366&bih=638
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MY17 may regulate different to earlier models for improved efficiency.
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The only reason I see the point in the pedal dance is 1) you hit kerbs hard enough that TSC switches back on or 2) You don't like EBD. ABS is the only system left on IIRC. The 86Nanny seems to be the track solution, I didn't even realise that they had options to run the fans etc. Their Facebook shows that they're testing a V3 unit, but their main website is down at the moment so I can't get an exact price but someone sold one brand new unused for $170 shipped in the US. So I reckon about $200 delivered here. MotoIQ seem to like it, that's the V1 version I believe: http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/4255/Project-Autocross-BRZ--Nanny-Removal-with-Beastronix.aspx
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Off all the time if you want it and it won't allow the TSC to re-engage at all. It's basically the pedal dance done permanently, remembers the settings when it's switched off. https://support.beastronix.com/portal/kb/articles/how-to-operate-the-86nanny-v2 It's the product that the track guys in the USA swear by.....
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https://www.facebook.com/86nannycontroller/
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Easily sorted
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No oil pressure sensor, so can't be read via OBD. The obvious things to do are the OCV, check sensors etc. I don't see why Toyota wouldn't warranty it, you could always ask as the supercharger won't have any impact on the operation. Most of the components are on the front of the engine I believe, cam position sensors are on the outer housing but you'll need the front cover off the engine to get at the OCV and actuators. Better pics here: https://www.revvolution.com/blog/2014/03/tearing-down-and-assessing-the-fa20-4u-gse
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@Lauren you clearly didn't read my links, cluster swaps of GTS into GT models work fine. It's not linked to the ECU bar the immobilizer which just needs syncing. If he bought the correct cluster of an early model it would be fine, just need mileage recoding. The reason the later Kouki dash won't work is both needing the controls on the wheel and the ECU won't be expecting the extra Canbus requests of the newer featured.
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Toyota GT86 Grimmspeed License Plate Relocation Kit
Kodename47 replied to cropzy's topic in GT86/BRZ General Chat
@cropzy don't forget that you will have holes in the bumper to fill and paint too if you do this -
Have you ordered yet Rob? The listing on Japanparts is showing as not found now....
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The cluster is integrated into the immobilizer (did you read my links?) so the car won't start until it's Sync'd. MY15+ has TPMS, earlier models didn't. You just need a VIN/Reg from a MY12-14 car and ask them to look up parts based on that. Based on one of the threads (Aus GT to GTS dash, same as you) then it appears to work. Does yours have the mph/kmph button? If not then maybe the issue is that the display still states kmph so they disconnected the LCD.