Kodename47

You can always test it by jacking the car up You have to follow the instructions, as I said I did it wrong one of the crossings.

http://www.gt86ownersclub.co.uk/forum/uploads/345/GT86_Cat_1_Alarm_Handbook.pdf I used this to deactivate the sensors on the way to the IOW. My alarm did go off when I didn't do it right on the way there. The key is fine but if you don't use it often it will be stiff and you'll need grips/pliers.

You can just disable to motion sensors..... Can't remember which number you use though.

Usually From Rest I believe. Intake rest retarded so angle shows angles Advanced and the opposite is true for the Exhaust. Here's an example drive on mine:

That doesn't look like it's working or logging correctly. You should be seeing 0-40 degrees-ish on both intake and exhaust.

When the AVCS stops working, it tends to stop operating and therefore the values are static. On a working system they are constantly changing so it'll be obvious. The easy way to check the OP's issue is the manifold pressure readings, as you'll know when it's in positive pressure etc and therefore actually boosting.

I'd guess Andy is part of Aerostop who I've seen selling bodykit parts on the US forum..... can be found on AliExpress or http://www.kd-aerostop.com/

They say it's a UEL but looks EL. I guess it's due to it being not exactly equal length however identical designed manifolds are sold as equal length Imagine how loud it would be if you'd bought the full system.

Yet another report of a failed blower after 7k miles.... http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2930532#post2930532

That's about £800 off the usual RRP..... or about 25%..... since HKS bumped up the prices they are £3.9k everywhere, so either you've found someone who's bought a whole load of stock at cheap or it's a V1

That's going to be one of the V1 kits that's floating around I'd guess as they're all at that price.....

Well at least we know what to expect when the Clubsport edition arrives here

No need, most tunes won't mess with the area tested.

I've heard many horror stories about braided lines over the years, with varying brands....... you barely (if at all) hear that with OEM rubber lines. HEL and Goodridge more than others, but it's one of the reasons I wouldn't fit any on my car. I'd rather reliability over a little extra feel. If the metal outer part wears and rubs though the rubber inner then you end up with a very sudden failure, it doesn't take much for that to happen either if the kit isn't well designed to account for suspension and wheel movement.

Worth keeping an eye on: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117090 HEL lines have a bit of a poor reputation for that kind of thing.

I have Cosworth pads as a match to mine. Can't yet comment on wear etc though but they were picked as a good match to the PFC Z fronts

You getting it done at Abbey? Mark does have a "typical" setup that works well. Valet and poor fuel both possible. Just run the 95 map IMO. The difference in performance is going to be minimal. You could just up tune the 95 RON tune a little, easily done. FWIW I don't run a low octane mode on my SC car. The only time I considered it an issue was going abroad but the fuel there is pretty good. If you get 95, just don't go ragging it around and you'll be fine until the next fuel up. The car adjusts pretty quickly to different fuel (Google Vishnu reset).

It's unlikely to throw a CEL if the SC fails. There have been a few reported instances of failure from the USA of the HKS superchargers. Unlikley that will make any difference, the ECU wouldn't just stop making power without a CEL due to an issue. Have a read through some of this: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89226&page=34 To quote a French member: Originally Posted by Torry@HKSUSA I still wonder what it is causing problems only in Russia, and now France. We've sold hundreds of these kits in the U.S. and haven't had any warranty issues on the supercharger itself that I recall. Originally Posted by Koj Torry, I m agree : there is a lot of HKS kit that work well.But for only 2 or 3 problems, HKS give no reason, just "Yes it is under warranty" or "no it isn't". So some ideas can come up ...My car is sleeping in my garage all year at 20/25°C. I see no snow & no ice.But my supercharger stopped to turn, even if the belt & the pulley ran normally. sic!

It's probably not worth covering these for any more than £10k. The excess would only be around £1k max depending on the policy etc. Still a fraction of the cost of the repair needed for the type of shunt above.

They are different compounds anyway. There are no Z rated rear PFC pads.

Decent fluid will help if fade is an issue. Get some track pads and put them in for trackdays and road biased pads for the rest of the time. Find a cooling solution too. Heat kills pads, so if you can get them cooler it might be cheaper than a BBK.

Door card off.

More common sizes tend to be cheaper. If you look at a set diameter wheel and then change the widths you'll find some are much cheaper than others, and it's not necessarily the wider the more expensive they get. I reckon the OEM tyre size isn't a common size for performance tyres.

Flexi section.