Kodename47

It's certainly possible to do, there are "crate" electric motors out there already, would just be packaging the batteries that is hard - and therefore making them viable via fast charging or suitable range. I mean there are EV beetles, classic Astons etc. Thing is, China is being driven towards EV at a fast pace at the moment, and I reckon Europe (EU+ others) will move in tandem towards a target of 2030/2035 - most already have similar targets. I think because of this, all the major manufacturers will have to move as the power of these markets will make it so. Don't forget that at this point, this is for new car sales, not necessarily to get all existing cars off the market. Plus we have the potential for man made fuels, like the ones that Porsche are investing in, that will make ICE cars more environmentally friendly. Plus we've not really seen much in the way of performance Hybrid tech, which is coming down the pipeline now - see that the M40i BMW engines using the tech in the M340i/D and M440i even if only in mild form - The new AMG C series will use similar. I understand the emotion behind the noise of combustion, it's why I echo that I want to get out of mine into some of the best sounding cars around at the moment while the tech gets there to make the jump to EV/Hybrid. Will be interesting whether cars values drop completely or the market sees ICE as something that will appreciate.

10 years is enough time for the industry to sort itself out. It's inevitable and many countries are doing similar. If you look at some of the new Chinese tech, such as Geely (who own Lotus and Volvo) and their drive towards EV, I don't think we'll be disappointed. It will just be different. New Tesla roadster with over 7000 lb.ft of Torque, seems crazy but these can be done only with EV. It's just battery technology that needs to be there and affordable to make it work really. And for the obsession of massive touch screens to go. Having just seen the new Nissan Ariya, I think that it could be my next family car replacement:

HKS have always done this, and really it's speed to market. These boxes already exist, so just need mild modifications to fit different cars. To remap the ECU needs a ton of work, including how to get access to the thing, whether by bench or OBD.

Stock cars are about 160 bhp on the Dynapack at Abbey. Mine made about 170 bhp tuned but stock. Thing is, I bet that despite the headline figure the not being much higher, the torque curve due to the improved flow will be better. Either way, around 250whp on these is plenty quick and fun without becoming too much or requiring far greater grip to cope.

Still available - Photos updated

Probably worth telling Subaru then

If you're driving hard enough to get the turbo that hot and then you drive into a lake, I think the turbo will be the least of your worries.... While the hot turbo, cold water scenario is possible, it is highly improbable. I haven't seen any "I wrote my turbo off driving through a puddle" threads on any forum.

Still uses the OEM airbox, so the intake is no lower than stock.

The AVO, as per all turbo kits really, are limited by the turbo you fit to it. AFAIK there is no difference between the higher power AVO vs lower other than turbo and supporting hardware. I also agree with you, the AVO setup is much nicer IMO. Many adopters in the USA and elsewhere as this was one of the early quality kits, then the cheaper ones came to market. Car's on 40k miles - no issues. Only just replaced the stock clutch, not because I had to (report was only minor wear) but as the engine was out so made sense to refresh it. The gearbox becomes an issue at around 350bhp apparently, so probably 275-300lb.ft, so will never become an issue for most. More likely to damage axles if you launch the car a lot, but again I don't try for 0-60s so not been a problem. In fact, bar servicing and wanting to mod the car it's not cost me anything. Stage 1/2 terminology is rubbish IMO, mine is just tuned for the setup, although much of that tuning has been done by myself from Abbey's foundation. Also with a SC you don't just turn up the boost I have also done almost all the spannering work on the car myself and the cost of what I've done had probably cost about half of £7k TBH. As I am in the process of selling the car my feedback is as follows: The GT86 is awesome when FI. I stopped chasing numbers as 240-250ish WHP on this platform is really fun without pushing the car too far. The chassis makes it great fun, make it playful and not without excess grip IMO and as the Sprintex is one of the PD blowers the torque for daily use is great. One reason I have kept it so long is that I have struggled to find something that I would want to replace it with and I find myself in the lucky position I can now get something that works both as a family car and is fun to drive. I've tried some more modern sports cars, such as the new Supra, and the SC on the 86 (and the 86 in general) I found more engaging and not far off the pace, despite the 100+hp deficit on paper. I'd have to spend way more than what the car is worth plus the mods value to get into something else that I would want.

I was one of the earliest supercharged cars in the country, running the Sprintex - not really used much these days but a good SC for a daily car. The pound is doing a bit better now so the rate vs the Aussie dollar, so something like the Harrop could be a bit cheaper, best bet is to speak to Mark at Abbey direct. None of these push too much power to really be any difference in reliability. I personally prefer an SC, mines been that way for 7 years.

Abbey is my choice too for whatever kit you choose.

All these tend to do is send false info to the ECU for the AFR and MAP outputs so that they ramp up the boost and perhaps improve the AFR. They are very rudimentary and hence only ever available on TC cars. They are seen as good as you can remove them if you have an issue that needs to go back to the dealer for support, but also don't have the same control you get with full ECU access, which may need to be done on a bench if they can't get it over OBD. EcuTek would be good but without the car in the US market it may not be something they end up investing in.

Lifting the car would trigger the tilt sensor, the bonnet is pretty hard to open without getting to the pull handle in the cabin, which would trigger the internal sensors. Disconnecting the battery would set the alarm off. I did this so I could put a charger on the car, the battery going flat means that the alarm wouldn't go off anyway and is much easier to steal......

If it helps, I've just cable tied the switch down so it never gets disturbed.... Can lock the car with the bonnet up without issue. Have you got anything under there worth stealing?

Yes, how do you know you've sealed it and the boot isn't going to flood

Done the hose test?

It's all to do with the seal, the TSB for them is very specific with order of tightening and for torque. You need them to be even or you create a poor seal and that's where the moisture gets around the seal. I expect some cars aren't done well from factory. Plus they really should be a single use item, once you remove a light you need to replace the gasket.

Car is back on the market - Gotta love Covid and Brexit 🤨

What made you decide to go for it? I quite like the Stinger, but reviews seem to suggest it is more of a GT and that some of the interior lets it down. Hopefully the facelift some of those, it certainly looks good.

Autocar beat you by a couple of weeks

Provisionally Sold

It's the new Supreme, the 97 is gone and replaced with 99. When on the continent I used their 98 which had as good MON ratings as our V-Power, which is actually a better determination than RON for performance. Even the Esso 97 formulation was good, so I hold high expectations for the 99.

Yeah, the B48 definitely won't fit where the FA24 does without a lot of work. Also fitting a BMW lump into a Subaru chassis seems a bit of a jump.

Item: Powerflex Rear Subframe Insert Bushes [PFR69-822] Condition: NEW Price: £25 Posted Location: East Sussex Bought these a while ago but have never been fitted. Designed to remove movement under acceleration.

I was on about charge temps - not engine coolant temps