Kodename47

I have vague memories of someone having fitment issues with Scorpion. Miltek and Cobra are proven good units available at good money and work on MT and AT.

Sensors are dealer fit option. Its possible you could get them to be fitted later on for similar cost, worth asking the dealer. The cameras are simple enough to fit, there's a few DIYs about. Kits can be found on eBay or Fensport do one.

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I discovered Cloudinary the other day. Seems to work well as an image hosting app, quick and no ads. You can also use add one to do "adjustments" to images,

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If you go FI, you'll need to give the engine better maintenance than the OEM schedule if you care about your engine. Stock block or not. Anyone who has issues with their pedal feel, get your tuner to sort it out!

For those with LED lights. I actually modded my OEM relay as most aftermarket relays have a longer 1st flash, hence replacing it twice.

Are there any differences? I looked at a LHD video and then did it, I could cope with the steering wheel on the opposite side...... In fact the 2nd time I did it, I didn't even remove the panels.

No

Bit cheaper? http://www.all-stars-motorsport.com/en/accessories/7986-toyota-gt86-and-subaru-brz-invidia-overpipe-tyup-1201i.html

Or just sprint for fun and DGAF about tyre lists and actual competing. You still get times even if you get shoved in a daft class.

Is that not where the Aero lip mounts to the stock bumper?

If it's of any use, you can get the side markers for cheaper than £125. Especially if you can get 2nd hand. I believe OEM spec ones can be bought in new for ~£70 before import. Surely some solvents would remove the over-spray from them?

It looks good.

You'll be best to source the kit yourself, just get it delivered to the bodyshop if transporting is an issue. There are so many options that I doubt any bodyshops could recommend any. Many come from abroad too so no benefit with buying from within the trade either I'd imagine.

If you're going for the JR oil cooler/radiator solution you'll need to confirm fitment with the lines etc. There's no benefit of the V3 over the V2, I believe it comes with no restrictor but a larger pulley so power outputs are similar. The V2's restrictor can just be bored out for more power if you like, cheaper than a newer pulley. The V3 also comes with the F-Con style tune box but again it's loaded with US based calibrations and not any compatible with our ECU. You'll prob want a gearbox oil cooling system too for extended track sessions.

If you're planning on tracking for 30 mins a go, you'll need an oil cooler. FI or not. That is quite long for a session. Over here it's the HKS V2 you'll find for sale, I believe the V3 was just for the US market.

Because it means you can control cylinder pressures. By increasing valve overlap you can blow boost out the exhaust ports, reducing the effective boost. A wastegate isn't your only option to reduce pressure, so it's not just a turbo that can "tune boost".

You've heard about variable valve timing right?

That's relative as reports are that around 300-350lb.ft (350-400whp is mentioned alot) the manual box starts being an issue too. Admittedly that's double the torque of the standard car but the manual isn't a strong box either. As the OP is a AT driver it is worth mentioning that 300whp is more bhp than the manual, you're shooting for more like 350-360bhp at the flywheel. You're well into needing a built engine territory and even a fully de-restricted HKS SC will struggle to hit that. You could go for a Sprintex 335 or maybe one of the larger Rotrex blowers with a HBP fitted. The easy option would be turbo but factor in beefing up the motor once you're past 250whp on whatever you do.

Dan is running one on his Harrop BRZ, but shorter (4.57 IIRC). I wonder if longer (3.9) would suit FI better.

They won't fit Valentis. They are found cheaply on eBay so you could always try them. I was tempted by these a while back but worried about the quality, but they don't look that bad. Easy way to lose the chrome look.

Quite a few people suggest that the poor quality is mainly down to the HU rather than the speakers.....