Kodename47

I might be tempted by a 3.9 in the long run, found in certain Lexus' so even cheaper if you can get them used. Not sure if we can find the LSD version but if so you don't even need to have the cost of pulling the diff apart.

As I said in the other thread, they seem to be the replacement. However, are these now available in 215/45/17? When I last checked they weren't as our A3 now runs these is a 16" fitment as a replacement for the HP. The difference is that no-where had the HP in the Audi's size and everywhere was stocking the 3. That lead me to believe that the 3 was being used for smaller, less sporty sizes. Maybe the 16" supplies cleared quicker as I would assume most eco boxes run 16" wheels. I guess it would make sense for the dealer to fit the HP as they are likely to just be using up stock. FWIW I haven't noticed any difference on the A3, then again it's a numb car that I barely drive fast but it seems to grip a little better in the cold and damp. If you want something better than the HP I would just look for a different tyre.

In what way? I don't have this issue. My throttle response and control is as good if not better than stock.

The 3 is the replacement of the HP. The other halfs A3 now runs them as direct replacements. Last time I checked they weren't available in our stock sizes though, only smaller wheels so I assumed the 3 wasn't a sporty tire where as the HP kind of is.

Given that the torque curve of the Sprintex is similar in overall shape to the NA FA20. It really shouldn't feel any different to the NA car but with more everywhere. The TVS blowers do have a bit more torque at the top end and obviously the centrifugal blowers build torque much higher up.

No, VPower is 99RON. It's roughly 92-93 octane in US speak. US 91 gets a bad reputation and it seems their 93 quality varies a lot even for the same brand. The US octane ratings are actually what is known as AKI (anti-knock index) which is the average on MON and RON ratings.

I'm going for dinner. Neither point helpful to thread...

It seems all the rage to have a more aggressive throttle map as it mimics better throttle response however you lose actual pedal resolution. As Ade said, if it doesn't suit then get it changed... that's what the tuners are paid to do, get the car how you want it. I spent plenty of time getting my throttle how I like, even in my more aggressive map it's still soft off the idle position and then gets ramped up otherwise it's jerky and makes the car feel crap. Its all to do with how the ECUtek and actual throttle maps integrate together. I would imagine that the pedal multiplier for those map modes has just been flatly increased, it tends to cause this problem.

JR SC Owners Thread: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60172 Only 281 pages long.... MX-5 and K series products are both positive displacement type blowers, the FA20 is a Rotrex centrifugal.

You can usually equate VPower to most of their 93 octane results, real 93 would possibly be a little better than VPower but with any fuel the quality varies. Or take a 91 octane result and then assume you make a little more. For WHP to BHP roughly add 40 however there will be obvious varances between dynos etc. As the JR and Kraftwerks use the same Rotrex supercharger then you could use that for extra data, as you could use the Litchfield Spec S as that is as well.

I still run 215s and will continue to do so.

Maybe less quick (= slower?) was the wrong phrase. I guess when you are used to a little torque surge you become accustomed to the theatrics and are waiting for a sudden pick up at 4.5k that never comes as there is no sudden wave of torque. There is no doubt the car was stronger, the difference between that setup and Lauren's was roughly an average of 5lf.ft over most of the curve due to the extra exhaust flow, curve shape was near identical. Stock vs tuned: https://www.dropbox.com/s/nfvkmtwvp2jjxyw/1.JPG Compare tuned vs tuned with exhaust: https://www.dropbox.com/s/gnmv87slz7b6mx8/Compare.jpg Note: remember Abbey's graphs exaggerate the curve due to the scaling

Seeing as you also come from a Honda background, the best thing I can equate it to is VTEC engagement. On the older cars the VTEC was a big switch and it felt quick due to the extra torque surge when the cam changed. Correctly tuned they have no surge as the switch over would be smoothed out due to better tuning of the lower cam region for more torque. Similar to the surge you get from a turbo, it gives the impression of harder acceleration when there is a sudden increase of torque.

I'd say yes. The remap I had done with the stock exhaust on (so just an airbox filter) helped smooth it enough that it wasn't as noticeable. If you look at the stock power curve, the torque drop is enough that there is actually a brief drop in horsepower, which is what you feel. You can map this out on the stock car. What I then noticed is that the car felt less quick, but it was just more linear with no sudden increase of torque as the car "pulls out" the dip.

Did you check your spam emails (which may have auto deleted if over a set timeframe)? The activation came through immediately IIRC. Might be worth trying to register again, I don't remember needing any form of approval/manual activation. I've seen posts regarding SSP on there recently, although I don't think they're on there. As Jay said, their Facebook suggests that they are active.

Different throttle mapping helps a lot in how the car feels. A remap also helps liberate more go. Both of these will undoubtedly make a stock car feel "numb". However if you notice 5bhp, you must have a very well tuned butt dyno.... On my car, nothing bar the remap made the car feel any different in N/A form, that included a variety of intake changes and HFC.

Honda CRX Mk 2 Honda Civic Type R (EK9) Want another Honda, I miss the engines!

All in the tune You should be able to lose the spike (bark?), although I'll admit mine has it as I like the bark on fire up.

Why not put a better silencer in the mid pipe?

Launch Control, Auto Blip on downshift, Flat Foot Shift.

I'd assume Techstream and cable is required.

I know nothing of this. Link?

If you don't run a cat then it's not an issue but it does degrade them. It wouldn't be uncommon for it to break them up, potentially leading to a blocked exhaust, loss of power etc. Just something to be aware of. I'm about to try a method that needs no throttle applying (minor brainwave last night) for it to work as it's the one thing that lets this mod down at the moment. I'll see if it works.