Kodename47

Add fuel, retard ignition. Been playing with my settings for some time. Had one map where it would sound like it was really flaming out the rear...... big ol bangs. Too much fuel, it's really noticeable too on the fuel gauge.

Tyre temps also play a part, slow driving will inherently mean the tyres don't warm up and will grip much less. I don't have issues around here as I'm straight out onto NSL each side of my village.

.... and does a good job of destroying the cats

Or any other tuner....

Especially when the MON ratings are good.

You can't see what map is on the car or pull the ROM off the ECU. Best bet is to email the obvious tuners the reg or ask the seller who tuned it.

There are no 4 defaults, the map modes are setup by the tuner. If you get another remap done, the license is in the ECU, so will save you a bit of money.

For reference, someone on here sold their Aero lip kit for £600 ONO, also in white. It's a couple of pages back. My car is grey, however funds are very limited at the moment so I won't hold my breath

The stock ECU has Subaru's knock retard strategy, which is designed to account for a huge range of variables including fuel. It will run fine on a 98 RON when mapped for 99, there's a good chance it's not tuned to the point of knocking anyway. Also, most European 98's AKI rating isn't much off VPower. Boosters do work, it's just not worth it.

It's no longer available now I believe, but I did see the breakdown when it was. I could possibly be interested in the lip kit, but only the front and side lips and would need painting.

Sell the wheels separately. It might also be worth listing the spoiler separately. IIRC the whole lip setup is around £500 per side from Toyota, so about £2k for the lip kit new and unpainted. The spoiler was another £500. If you price it for a white owner, you limit your market. Anyone else will have to pay to get the colour changed which you should factor in. I don't think you can really count in including the bumpers as it doesn't help, it's of no real benefit, increases shipping costs etc.

Flash the headlights before you get out the car after you turn it off. 30 seconds (or is it 1 minute) of light

It's not surprising. The MAF sensor and intake is sat directly above the radiator. IATs at idle or in traffic are largely irrelevant. The stock intake help in keeping convection heat down, aftermarket ones will suffer worse IAT readings.

Rubbish..... it's fun/testing! The v105s will give you more grip than the Primacys.

They shouldn't do and it won't have a negative impact on running as it just polls the Canbus. Plus this can clear codes in the ECU anyway The main thing that you want, oil temp, doesn't seem to be standard. If you can get that then I doubt there's much more you need. Really it's oil and water temp and the rest are just nice extras. I wonder how the 4 does versus the 6 visually.

I'd guess this: http://www.leagend.com/viewpro.asp?id=403

It is, but at over £800 for a couple of horses.... Great value! Is be more interested in the exhaust manifold, but if the intake is that crazy I'd hate to think how much something with a catatlyric converter coats.

Still takes longer to warm up if the cooler is decent size in cold airflow.

204/202/198 all within dyno variance, changes in ambient conditions, fuel quality (even if same brand), fuel trims etc.

About the same as any decent standard oil cooler setup, as above really.

Why do you need one? Are you going to get a remap with your manifold?

The Forrester system doesn't seem to keep peak temps down for FI cars. Ade's system is a better solution as the exchanger core works better. That's what I was looking at doing when funds allow.

I have a brand new Q300 replica for sale. I have managed to acquire 2 but only one will be going on my car. Will supply with everything needed to fit: Cat-Back (2.5" OD Measured - Would expect 2.36" ID) Supplied Gasket & Bolts I will supply a V-Band clamp for the rear join as it didn't come with one. Photos Looking for £200 Delivered Itch45 has one of these fitted to his car, I have been speaking with him and he is impressed with the results. I'm hoping he may be able to add pics of it fitted & a sound clip

^ This over anything under a 90C stat any day of the week IMO. Really the higher the stat the better for a daily driven car, unless you block the rad off in colder weather.

This went pretty quickly, gone I'm afraid.