Kodename47

Definitely overcompensating.... My 215s are fine for the Sprintex, no idea why you needed 255s

My OEM mani has no cat..... not gutted though. Also SC, so can't really comment. Try it, why not?.... it's free. A replacement mani is cheap if you don't like it.

Do you hold both buttons? I believe you have to do both together for it to work.

Port Solent used to be one we used, if you wanted one that way. Except different mani and with SC added volume...

Just an FYI. Toyota have issued a worldwide recall for Power steering fault on 86/GT86 models from April 2012 to March 2015. They will contact owners accordingly. This looks to be RHD specific as the updates so far appear to be coming from Australia, NZ and TGB,

US dealers are stating $300. ECUtek prices seem to translate with exchange rates Also, for those with decent phones, Android app is still not due until the end of the year/early 2017 from what I've been told.

I'd be looking at a LCI M240i.I understand that the newer engine has a different power delivery but I was shocked at how much the 235 kept shoving at the top of the rev band. I wansnt expecting that and its whats made me consider it. It would also need no mods, making It easy running without worry and a comfier cruiser than the 86 too.

This may be the case with 95 RON, it's not true about SUL but mainly because there is such variation in type. Most supermarkets only do 97, BP and Esso treat theirs with specific additives. Tesco and V-Power are different and have different MON ratings, making V-Power the better fuel. MON is actually a better indicator of what has the better knock resistance in a performance vehicle.

Says he with a Shell on his doorstep Unless you can see what the ECU's doing, you probably wouldn't know. As Rich has said, on cruising the quality of fuel is not that crucial and if it does knock it's not going to do any damage. On WOT then knock can do some real damage especially if running higher cylinder pressures, like boost. Now, how much damage is done is dependent on how good the knock retard systems are. It's believed that they are quite good on this platform. However I have heard the onset of knock without any timing being pulled. I've also known it the other way too. Without going into too much detail, the occasional onset of knock detection, the ECU will basically pull some ignition timing as the event is happening. This will reduce power only for that moment. I bet you wouldn't notice that. But there are some load and RPM ranges that the FA20 is more prone to knocking and if you consistently hit this, then the ECU will start to reduce timing over most of the map range. How much will depend on how consistently it keeps on doing it and also how one of the ignition maps is tuned. This would be far more obvious. Usually none of these really have any noticeable impact unless you're putting higher load on the engine. So back to my original statement, any RON fuel is fine. Having seen the data sheets for the 99 RON fuels, V-Power is the better one, Momentum is 99 RON due to it's ethanol content. In terms of knock resistance in the UK: V-Power (99) Momentum99 BP Ultimate (97) Esso Synergy Supreme+ (97) - Not sure if the newer Synergy is improved from before the rebrand Any Supermarket 97

The M235i was great fun on a very wet Goodwood. Comparable size to the 86, just far more punch.

The ECU adjusts for low quality fuel anyway. If it was FI then running constant correction might not be ideal (although WRX/STi's do it) but on an NA car then just buy fuel, drive it.

Having recently driven one, contemplating one of these: It's a guilty pleasure as I dislike BMW quite a lot.....

Tesco, or just stomach Esso/BP's 97. It's not going to cause you any issues.

The Corolla is a bit soft, but then again is a stock Celica a good handling car? The 202 is a bit of a barge, blame all the high quality build interior for that (apparently).

My mate who works for Toyota picked up his Corolla for a less than half of the price of the Celica, if you're after the 190. He's also a fan of the Celica but has basically said that the Corolla was a no brainer, same performance, better practicality, lower price. The only issue is that there are fewer aftermarket parts, but he's not that bothered about that any more.

Every time I see this: I just see a fat this: I miss my Honda!

How about the Corolla T-Sport? Same VVTLi engine but without the coupe tax.

It's screwed..... Sorry,bad pun. Is it definitely coming from the SC? Can you narrow down where it's coming from? Have you disconnected the belt and see if the noise disappears?

Cruise control isn't the Only way to change maps, it's just the easiest.

Welcome to the working car cl......Oh, wait.....

Very few calipers fit beneath the OEM rims.

I'm not sure grooved discs are actually an upgrade with regards to heat dissipation, they really just help bite and lessen pad life. You have more disc mass on solid discs

I've been out in an EP3 with a similar SC, it didn't feel any faster than the stock car even though it clearly was. The power delivery was so linear, just like the OEM engine. It left me very underwhelmed.

So the question is, do you like all your power at the north of the rev band? If so, then it will be fun. If you're not sure or no, then I wouldn't. See if you can find someone with a Litchfield kit as it's the same Rotrex blower, much more common over here even if it's still quite rare.

Which blower is it? JR do make good stuff, it's less torquey than the HKS on the smaller blower so it will be marmite as to whether you like it.