Kodename47

Only US Spec is different to the rest of the world (god knows why!?). I'll have them if they're just going to waste

MOT is due.... 3 years old.

Just get new gaskets from Toyota if not under warranty or go one better and spend £30 and get the complete kit with neoprene gaskets and sealant from gaaketninja. Job done.

What happened to them?

Does it not have the MPH/kmph button for the digital dash like ours does (if yours has the digital readout)? Thought that was universal...

Michelin - France Worlds number one tyre manufacturer. Own the brands Michelin, BF Goodrich, Kleber, Uniroyal* and Riken. Continental - Germany Owns Continental, Uniroyal*, General Tyre, Gislaved and Semperit. * To add to confusion Uniroyal is Continental owned in Europe and Michelin owned in USA

Issues with Nameless perhaps (due to quality problems??).....

Does someone want to part with an OEM airbox? I'm actually just after the front part that mates with the snorkel rather than the whole box....

Nothing in the ECU looks difference in coolant by a few degrees for fueling or timing, bar extremes. Might have a slight impact on convection of heat into the air and lower cylinder temps but all the sensors are way before that so won't take that into account.

That's Ace, 1320 is a US brand with only a single UEL manifold.

Power it should or just not as strong as other designs? This manifold design has been around as long/longer than the Tomei, see P&L/FA20Cub. However It's just a different design. The Tomei will be quieter and you don't get the up loop. None of the JDM manifolds use the up loop. Even Ace tried a different way to get runner length into the design.

Surprised you weren't tempted by the Valentis

It's not a dual clutch in this car

Ahem....

Possibly just some form of resonance/airflow within the manifold. It'll be thinner than stock so you are more likely to hear internal noises.

Mike, are those "Stock" figures being done on the car as is driven in? All seem a little low, almost as if the IAM isn't at max.

Open top motoring, more than likely a better built engine and better quality car all round. Go for the S and you get an extra half a litre. The 718 Cayman will be cheaper than the Boxter spec for spec so if you don't care for a soft top then that would be my purchase.

^ This. Always on the right hand side of the car. The US are LHD so on the passenger side

No, not swapping chargers yet anyway. I drilled my resonator off years ago, just want rid of it being gaffer taped back on.

Yeah, I just want the part with the resonator attached. If there's a way to split a whole one with Ade to make life easy then do that.

Thanks mate, keep me in the loop.

On the Dynapack you input the gear ratio, the dyno reads total torque but then divides by the ratio to give a standardized hub figure. Because it's a hub dyno it's easier to dyno in 5th (MT) or 4th (AT) where the gear ratio is 1:1 than a rolling road type. At the end of the day, the dyno measures wheel/hub torque on any type. The rest is all calculated.

It's also worth considering long term goals with regards to shorter FDs. If you're planning on staying NA then weigh up the above,if you're planning on FI then you should take this into account as higher power will likely benefit from a lower ratio.

14% isn't a small difference and definitely not within dyno error. Previous findings found it to give, er, no gains at all. That was on a car where the rest of the system had already been changed.

Surprised you went with the OP, seems to be the one part of the system that does virtually nothing to change power.