Kodename47
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Everything posted by Kodename47
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MFactory Final Drive Kits in stock at Tuning Developments for GT86 and BRZ
Kodename47 replied to Mike@TD.co.uk's topic in Tuning Developments
Displayed speed is done by the rear wheels, averaged I would expect. Guys in the states have said that the dash display indicator is thrown off by a change in FD, however I'm not sure if there is a sensor on the box too. Realistically it's not going to make a huge difference to a manual car as there aren't any important gear calculations on a standard calibration. ECUtek logs gear parameters so I guess if I change the ratios in the table I would be able to tell.... Edit - Had a look at the Gear Threshold table. I think this is for AT only, can an auto guy confirm? Table is km/h per 1k RPM MPH @7000 1 10.77 47 2 16.25 71 3 21.65 94 4 26.81 117 5/6. 33.86 147 -
MFactory Final Drive Kits in stock at Tuning Developments for GT86 and BRZ
Kodename47 replied to Mike@TD.co.uk's topic in Tuning Developments
AFAIK it's only the gear indicator that's affected as wheel speed is not determined via gearbox.- 101 replies
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- mfactory
- final drive
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GT86/BRZ/FR-S Manifold/Headers From Tuning Developments
Kodename47 replied to Mike@TD.co.uk's topic in Tuning Developments
It's there for part throttle and on/off applications. It does help otherwise the OEM wouldn't have used it. I did a load of testing years back, put it back on. -
GT86/BRZ/FR-S Manifold/Headers From Tuning Developments
Kodename47 replied to Mike@TD.co.uk's topic in Tuning Developments
That does have a small impact on driveability.... -
Anyone with a Cossie S/C south of London?
Kodename47 replied to Subota Boy's topic in GT86/BRZ General Chat
Cosworth have stated that the power is declared to be safe on the base tune. Obviously standard warranty only applies..... -
Anyone with a Cossie S/C south of London?
Kodename47 replied to Subota Boy's topic in GT86/BRZ General Chat
Keith, why this over the other offerings then seeing as it's a predominantly road driven car? -
GT86/BRZ/FR-S Manifold/Headers From Tuning Developments
Kodename47 replied to Mike@TD.co.uk's topic in Tuning Developments
Probably a little, the runner lengths of these really help and this design stateside has always produced good results. Depends on whether you mind the pipework up into the bay IMO and whether the cost of swapping and remapping is worth it to you. -
Not Valentis Should have got the Revos....
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It's just a switch but that's where I've installed my pressure sensor and fed it to my P3.
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Oil temp and pressure sensor is below the oil filter, easily visible if you pop the bonnet Can you add custom addresses to the sca gauge? I thought you'd be able to get the data on that.
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- harrop
- super charger
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The car has an oil temp sensor stock, the info is available via any OBD device (P3 Gauge/ECUtek/Torque Pro with custom PID added).
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How did you guys find the difference in FDs?
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Had a ride in the TD turbo car...
Kodename47 replied to Nicebiscuit's topic in GT86/BRZ General Chat
That's because ITBs are going to be expensive as you'll more than likely need an aftermarket ECU. A full bolt on package for NA is also expensive. To make more NA power than the average you really need to increase the RPM that max power is made at, you'll need better flowing heads and new cams, expensive. To do all that well, you'd need to spend far more than the average FI package. Then you start questioning whether more £ for less power is really worth it. I get the appeal of an all motor engine, I come from a Honda background,but the FA20 needs a lot of work. -
Had a ride in the TD turbo car...
Kodename47 replied to Nicebiscuit's topic in GT86/BRZ General Chat
Er.... does it? All I'd read was that the FA20DIT wasn't compatible for a number of reasons. I'm aware that a centi charger may be kinder to fuel consumption at low end however I'm not sure how economy increases based on more parasitic load on the engine and as the charger is constantly flowing more air then to meet the same AFR you will need more fuel. Maybe you just get on the pedal less..... Oh and the fuel map will only be more aggressive when going for it, not for normal driving, I agree a turbo is more economic, I still wouldn't let one near my car though. -
Ah OK. I don't follow the development so I assumed it meant a heatshied had been developed. I still wonder whether one could be produced out of flexible materials that would still do a decent job.
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If it comes with a heatshield then you don't need the coating. The OEM one does a decent job after all.
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Tarmac deals with the States alot so could be worth asking, most of his products are US based so you could suggest that he adds this to his listing as it'd be a popular offering. Tried Mark to see if he could get one over?
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You can re-calibrate the OEM sensor to read as low as you want, however it loses accuracy the further from stoich. How would you even know that any calibration is near accurate without confirming on a wideband?
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Early ones were just poor quality and cracked welds. Quite a few were replaced under warranty. The collectors weren't also that great quality. I would have said that they were a budget quality product priced at medium quality prices. I think if you're spending that kind of money, I'd get the Tomei over the Borla. As the Gruppe-S is apparently the same as the Tomei, but even cheaper then I'd say that's a no brainer. All depends on how much it costs you to get the spares or find a retailer to do it for you.
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I wouldn't buy a Borla..... They have consistently had issues.
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Borla is UEL, Tomei does both EL and UEL. The eBay one is EL. If you want UEL but without the cost then 1320 Performance or Gruppe-S seem to be well reputed in the States. The Gruppe-S is believed to be a "White Label" Tomei
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So how about increasing in cylinder cooling then?
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Rob, a local lad who has Geoff's old white car maxed and stayed at ~80C on his Sprintex on a recent trackday. Not sure if 75mm or smaller pulley. I was surprised that the Harrop saw higher CATs than the E-Force if I'm honest, given that they are in Australia and all. However to say that the high CATs of the bigger blowers is a limiting factor is pretty mute. You'd be building the engine if you're going for a smaller pulley on a TVS1320, that will give you more than enough knock headroom if you chose the correct pistons. Look at the guys running high boost turbos in the States. As always, lower CATs are preferable, but not the be all and end all. Run more boost and higher CATs or make the same power as less boost but slightly lower temps. All being equal, well tuned and setup then they will both run all day and continue to do so. Don't forget there are plenty of cars out there that make good power with less charge air cooling than these kits.
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It's a smaller blower, there is more headroom with the bigger blowers.... He didn't say the Cossie couldn't make more power, but there was less headroom
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On the stock calibration they have only set the sensors to read as low as 12.1, if it reads any lower then the calibration has been changed. Seeing as the sensor only has an effect on closed loop (~14.7-14.0 as standard) then there's no need for it to be accurate any lower. Depending on the setup you could use a range of techniques: A wideband Lambda in each manifold runner - time consuming and expensive but most accurate and get each cylinder's AFR for optimum tuning. A wideband Lambda in the manifold similar to OEM position (you can't remove the OEM sensor) - more common and good level of accuracy if pre-cat A wideband in the tail pipes is the least accurate but you can manually compensate for the leaner readings. Yes, you would ideally dyno (or any form of accurate WBO2) tune the AFRs as it's one of those things that can vary from vehicle to vehicle. With ECUtek you can re-purpose the rear O2 input to be able to put a Wideband in.