Kodename47

Mini Bump - Open to sensible offers. Had some interest in various parts so good to see if there is interest before I consider reverting back to stock(ish).

Toyota's SLLC is Pink - I use it in my Supercharger. The GT86 is blue as that is Subaru's SLLC colour of choice.

For Sale: Location: East Sussex Item: Performance Friction PFC Front Z-Rated Compound Brake Pads Condition: New in box Price: SOLD Item: Cosworth Street Master Rear Brake Pads Condition: New in box Price: SOLD Item: Bosch Vented Rear Discs Pair (290mm) Condition: New in box Price: SOLD

All Sold!

Not for some time now he hasn't

Post Updated!

I've had this from new, this was my own purchase when I first tuned my car and then bought the upgrade as a way to learn tuning the ECU when the released the Retail tuning options but I have since had a full tuner dongle for some time now, so this is redundant. Base stock maps are downloaded with the Software, but you have to make your own maps. You can use a variety of the OTS free maps that are around to make a base map if you want to do that. Loads of info and resources here (I'm on there as Kodename47) https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=88 You need, what most people call and EcuTek license for the ECU for the initial write, this is the only additional cost that would be required for these. Once the ECU has the license it allows you to flash it as many time as you like. The license is available from any Master Tuner (Abbey Motorsport would be my choice) and is applied remotely to the dongle ID which you then apply using the software update. I believe the license is around £250. If your ECU has a license already then you won't have any extra costs. The usual way to know if you've been flashed with EcuTek is that you have map switching as most tuners enable this. Note that you can't read a tune off an ECU, only flash maps to one. More info on EcuTek here: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117520

Probably worth noting there are alot of Toyota Finance offers at the moment. Not checked the GT86 but both the GR Yaris and the Supra can be had at 0% APR so at least you're not having to pay interest. That combined with a decent discount would offset the usual poor APR plus depreciation you would normally have to stomach.

It's definitely worth a test drive. But it does depend on what you want from a car. It's a fast GT car IMO, it's less engaging than the 86. Easy to pile on speed, much less effort to drive (see engagement comment). I found that after getting back into the 86 the desire to have one went away, but the B58 is damn good engine, if way too subdued in noise. It'll be a better place to be in for daily driving but less accommodating if you would use the rear seats at all.

If you've not had an alignment done, then you have no idea how much you've changed the geometry and this (plus tyre pressures?) can cause the car to handle badly, even dangerously. I would have had the alignment done as part of the suspension swap, or have it booked in ready for when you did the work if done at home.

I also note that the GR4 UK tour is missing a lot of dealerships. Notably any of my local ones, one of which is a big main dealer. I see that RRG Macc is also not on the list. Very odd. Edit - RRG now seems to have been added.

Really? We didn't know..... The engine is still the let down on this car, had no character from the factory (sound and power delivery). Obviously adequate enough to buy one and powerful enough and I'm not even on about the torque dip as that wasn't an issue for me either, but the engine character is missing. I also read a post recently by a Prodrive engineer who claimed that the WRX EJ motors actually had a higher COG vs the I4 competition due to the ancillaries. I'm not sure how that translates to this platform as the engine is definitely mounted lower than the WRX but I for one wouldn't mind an I4 that sounds better and peaks higher.

I'm not sure many would expect heat management to be any worse, the OEM cooling system has plenty of capacity and is not known to be a problem even at high power. Oil temps will typically increase faster than stock, but on the street this is really a non-issue. The biggest one tends to be, as Martin alluded, that other mods can increase underbonnet temps to go up that play a more significan impact IMO.

Yep, happened on mine. Relays are under the bonnet and take 10 secs to swap. Leave them swapped and then buy some off of ebay for cheap as I couldn't find them new anywhere online - I actually bought 2 so have a spare if it helps.

That. Is. Not. Pretty. Front end is OK, just a bit too blocky, but the rear is somewhere between NSX and last gen Vantage and looks awful. Still has a chance to not come like that though. I expect the 370Z replacement to look better and probably closer rivals than last gen.

This engine is very knock sensitive and can't get near MBT unless on E85. Premium fuel is 97RON minimum by law so that is what most supermarket fuels are, 99 will give more headroom and performance. BP 97 isn't that great quality and around here more expensive than both Shell and Tesco, so that to me is a no brainer. 99 RON will vary based on the MON value, and shell and Tesco are similar based on seasonal blends. Ethanol is good for knock resistance, hence being used to boost MON/RON but comes at the expense of more fuel to meet the same ratio. VP is now E5 anyway.

Would love an RX-7 but now my car is used for reasonable mileage it's out of the question. By far one of the smoothest and enjoyable experiences of a JDM performance car. I'd have one as a weekend/track car but then I think it would never get used.

The TPS sensor is as 80%. That's WOT on this throttle body.

Depends on what you want to buy. Small parts will likely be fine but anything larger I'd have reservations about quality and shipping.

Like what? I see no assumptions, only statements (except the fact that having only just bought your new car, that I doubt you've driven it hard on very wet surfaces - given it's July, that's probably a fair assumption?)

Price?

Well I certainly tested the M4 (probably in harder conditions than you have the M2....), Goodwood in torrential downpour actually highlighted where the DCT is great - having to short shift in corners as no other way to get the torque down and got to feel the chassis move around a fair bit even with the TCS on. I was gutted that they didn't have the M2 there as they hadn't received it yet but I did get to drive a manual M235i. In those conditions, the DCT made life easier. The "lack" of power in the 2 actually made it the better drive as it wasn't fighting for traction constantly and I felt it was the better chassis. The 86 would be a worse car without a MT and it should have a better AT option than the current box.

I thought the ZF8 was a good gearbox. Changes are quick. The fact that many higher power M cars use it over a DCT certainly suggests that the ZF is not a poor man's DCT. Having driven both an M4 on track and the Supra, they both have the same issue IMO and it is the engagement factor. Driven in isolation I did enjoy them, but getting back into the 86 it's a clear comparison. I'd have a DCT M2 or even a ZF8 M240 because of the long distance I do and due to the fact the BM 6 speed doesn't get a good rep, but I'd rather a manual (not an option in the 240 any more). I don't think we'll even see the 2.0 Supra here, they struggle to sell the 3.0. As there are no longer B58 manual cars, I doubt that will ever get it - I'd put money on the GRMN version still being the ZF.

JDM cars don't have rear fog lights, AUDM/UKDM cars do. BRZ is a different setup than 86, that is the standard BRZ setup worldwide.

No need for it to as you only have access to one speed system in Aus/NZ. The FR-S is the same. I'd imagine only Euro cars have it TBH