Kodename47

Own intake? Made of sticks and glue?

You haven't got both fobs together have you? That could cause the same kind of issues. Anything with any form of RF can cause this (phone/laptop).

No, no changes to any of the maps that impact performance. I've compare all the main tables with all C series (US Manual), all G series (Euro/Aus Manual) and the related autos (D/I) and there are no differences in any of the main maps on any of the revisions.

You really need to see whole graphs to make any sense, just plugging peak HP and Tq figures doesn't mean much. I bet Lauren's just has a strong engine.... It's what you're paying for, their ability to programme the ECU and the extra features that they have (not just the ones you lot "use"). ECUtek is more than just simply reflashing like the other "Opensource" options. No changes to fuel map or ignition timing on any of the European cars/calibrations. Even the newer MY2015- type calibrations, which aren't backward compatible, are the same. I can post them all up if anyone is really that bothered... Abbey do this. Mark dyno tunes and then you can send road logs in to be reviewed, best and most cost effective way. It's also not much more expensive (if at all) than other "road" tunes.

Not necessarily, although some tuners do. The stock tune does it. Again, Tactrix? No where near the cost, although you won't get the autoblip of ECUtek.

Tactrix if you don't like the cost and only want cold start sorting? The standard tune is designed to run optimally on decent fuel. Any remap can deal with lower grade fuel the same way as the OEM does as it's the ECU's knock control strategy.

SVA isn't cheap if there's no UK equivalent car so if you're not buying it for road use then there's no point You could easily get the SVA approval now (if road legal) but still it's going to cost you.

Does now. Didn't when it 1st came out.

if it could pass an MOT, yes. It would be extra money though and some motorsport changes could make it illegal so I guess they just cover their backs.

Buy a WRX

Genuine Valentis have a sticker on the back of them. Other versions don't. All are manufactured in the same factory apparently.

Well the D4S system is Toyota, and the FA20 is different to all other boxers as a result. It is a Subaru built & designed engine. Cost. The Gunma factory was ideal for production and available. Plus, as above, the boxer engine was the ideal choice of engine due to COG and required power output.

My NA remap made good power over a stock car (over 10bhp at the hubs) and that was just with an air filter and remap. You can lose power if it's too aggressive or not aggressive enough, it helps if you can monitor the tune to know what's happening though With something like ECUtek, there's no reason not to. Dyno tune clearly has it's advantages, especially when changing manifolds. Unless you spend a long time finishing a road only tune, it'll have it's limitations.

4.1 standard, I think the obvious manual final drive upgrades for NA would be 4.55/4.67, I would go 4.44 possibly if FI. For the automatics I would suggest going for the next size up from a manual. As for a percentage difference..... 4.67/4.1= 13.9% increase

So.... it's just another 86. You sticking your old bits back on it?

It's TC

Dark side? Hmmm... traded in for an Ayo Black then

This is my car with 75mm pulley vs my NA tuned car. Power is at the hubs, mine standard hit ~160bhp for reference which is a strong stock figure. This is 70mm pulley vs 75mm: Those is with standard exhaust but with HFC and no cat in the manifold. The gains will pretty much depend on exhaust mods.

I'm thinking about a change in direction so the Sprintex is up for sale. Details: Complete Intercooled 210 Supercharger Kit Installed: Jan 2014 Mileage: ~6,000 Pulleys: Standard 75mm Pulley & Raceseng 70mm Pulley Includes IAT relocation kit to read air temperatures after the supercharger - This itself is over £100 new. I cut and spliced my original MAF loom to wire this in. Mark @ Abbey may be able to supply a plug and play loom for this if required. It has had 2 oil changes since install (manual states every 10k), last one recently with Jon Bond Tribodyn Supercharger oil. I installed the kit myself so this is DIY if you're that way inclined. These are recent pics of it on my car: Looking for £3000 for one of the lowest mieage and well looked after superchargers. For that price I would be looking at collection or alternatively I can arrange to have it dropped at Abbey Motorsport if you would be planning to have it installed/tuned there. Note: This does not include ECUtek license or tune. I can help supply a limited basemap to get the car running ready for tuning, although an ECUtek license will need to be purchased or already have ECUtek tune on the ECU.

It's when they aren't up to temperature in the wet is when they are the most snappy.

Bump

Tarmac Sportz for the Japan Racing wheels Rarerims for the Rotas eBay for 2nd hand wheels if you're only getting winter tyres?

No, but they are still a project of some sort. Not everyone has an endless budget to throw into a car, but it doesn't make it any less worthwhile to them. And project ideas are always good to be shared, no matter how "big" or "small." Too much willy waving going on though, it's not a bloody competition on who can spend the most.... FWIW I like your build Nige. Always good to see what can be done if you have the time and money and not by Motorsport companies, which makes it more interesting.

Got a quick pic but it's crap. Proves even the most hardcore cars still visit the dealerships..... Good to see the car in person, they were very happy to have a car like that in for work