Kodename47

As you're in Surrey, speak to the guys at Abbey. Nice and local + bonus points for being a dyno tune if you want As for dealer warranty claims: A. They can''t tell unless they do some ECU forensic testing. They won't do that unless something goes really wrong. The only time it will show is if the dealer try and flash the ECU themselves as ECUtek will prevent that from happening. B. They don't look around the car trying to catch you out, they shouldn't note down mods at services etc. The ECU is relatively good at looking after the engine, it does that as standard. Most warranty issues in the engine are due to design/manufacture issues and are completely independent of what would be affected by a tune, you would have no issue proving that the tune isn't related (if they even realised it was done in the 1st place).

As above, hit 2 on the keypad with the ignition on. Turn off the ignintion within 5 seconds. Get out and shut all doors and boot etc. Lock Car. 5 disables ultrasonic and tilt.

I was at Abbey yesterday for my 3rd service and MOT. Thanks again to Mark, Scott and the team. While I was there Mark let me have a prod around the workshop and get some pics: Cosworth Tomei Ace

If they have used a power gun on the dampers to change the springs then this is known to damage them. Plenty of cases in the states of similar. It seems the OEM dampers are quite prone to this so unless you know then you can fall victim to this. IMO this is why the dampers have blown... http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33095

Its fine to do it but then you'll have to change your coolant in 2 years and not the original 10. Just buy some Subaru blue. Toyota have their rebranded stuff too.

What happened? Any symptoms before it died? Money on the AVCS (VVT) system fault. I don't recognise that code though. Brake and TCS lights tend to show up with most CELBto show that ABS & TCS are disabled, it doesn't mean there's a fault with them.

Pull the USB/Aux device and it'll pop out, disconnect it and then that gives you something to pull on. It then just pulls out

Thought I'd update my misinformation, kneepads come apart and are quite easily wrapped/painted. The passenger side is a PITA to get out though as the centre console needs a good amount of re-positioning. No silver trim....

You'll only ever get them to match mainly by luck. If you consider changing toe has an effect on camber and vice versa, it's always a best effort so you just try and get them within a set range rather than an identical figure. Think about how much of a change 0.1 deg is and then the fact you have to set the alignment up when the car is loaded, it's not like you can make adjustments and lock off the settings when you hit a magic number. It's pretty much continuous trial and error. I've seen alignment machines "accept" +/-0.2 deg as a pass. That's a range of 0.4 deg on each corner. TBH I'd rather be concerned at total toe settings rather than that last 0.1 deg of camber

I am aware of that, but the fronts are no different to how it "comes from the factory". Is it ideally suited to track applications? No. Is it fine for road abuse? Certainly. While more negative camber is beneficial, it is far from being a necessity.

Mine on Litchfield springs, no form of aftermarket camber adjustment runs (on last alignment): F: -0.37 / 0.03 R: -1.56 / -1.38 I'll probably throw some front bolts on the next time I get it setup, however it doesn't feel like it needs it. For the cost it's usually a no brainer though.

Because lowering already gives more negative camber at the rear.... FWIW, It's not necessary at all.

It's actually down to how tight the lights have been fitted. The gaskets don't like being too tight or too loose it seems. It's not actually a defect with the lights themselves.

http://www.toyota-motorsport.com/motorsport/en/cars/gt86-cs-r3

If they are nice and you prove the ECU has been replaced then ECUtek have been known to give a replacement license. However I have only heard of this on warranty replacements. You can obviously just throw the same tune back on after a replacement license has been put on the ECU. I assume you got yours done with Adrian, so just ask him what he can do for you.

Just the usual direct from Japan sites. I always check Nengun, Japanparts, Rhdjapan and Japex on eBay. They seem to have most bases covered. There may be more but I trust those.

Needs a blanking plate for the RHS exhaust hole

It's been in development for quite some time, seemed to surface in prototype form around early December. Its been released here no later than in the USA. The kit has been designed as a bolt and go, CARB approval means that it needs to be correctly tuned and tested.

Sprintex for sale add follows shortly.....

Only the screw type (and whipple?) blowers whine, Sprintex is the only screw type on this platform.

Hasn't Lee sold his car? It's up for sale (or was).

MotorTrend Youtube: MX-5 is quicker on track too.

The Tomei isn't expensive. EL and UEL versions available, comes well recommended and if you can avoid import fees you could have one for £400 to your door, about £500 if you aren't so lucky.

Torque RT700 seems to be the fluid to go for these days of you're after higher temp stuff.

Mine is insured with Highways which is a subsidiary of LV, very happy with them so far too.