Kodename47

Depends on how good you are at cutting metal and making it look ok. I would assume you'd want to take the bonnet off to make it easier as there isn't much room up there

On an N/A car it's probably not an issue. The bay isn't particularly good at losing heat though it seems, so it may not be ideal long term. There is a reason the OEM has a heat shield and it's not just due to the sump. Elecrical components are very susceptible to heat and the intake is also above where the runners cross the bay. Zircotec do a flexible ceramic material you could use as a replacement heat shield.

Impressions: I really want one. I bet for most this would be a much quicker car point to point than the 86/BRZ. Also more comfortable, practical and obviously much faster. Possibly better looking too. Honda got this right, Type R lives on!

If you're going for a carbon look, then don't do it IMO. For any other patterns or colours then it's a good option. If you're going carbon then maybe try buying a skinning kit to skin the parts yourself. My wrap was also a PITA, I wonder if some are more difficult to use than others.

This was quite an early kit, I don't mind the way it looks but I'm not a fan of imitation kits. It does a reasonable job though.

... or the mud flaps. They aren't covered from the factory.

Bigger bore is better for turbo

About 1350kg with fuel I think. So not far off the 86 with a heavy passenger on board.

Abbey do theirs on a hub dyno, it's also about the same cost IIRC. The main cost for a 1st time ECUtek tune is the license for the ECU. Obviously you could buy an OFT where there is off the shelf tunes for various configs.

The way Mark explained it was shock loading with torque at lower RPM will stress the rods more than the same torque when the engine is already carrying more momentum at higher engine speeds. Think about how much power the Fensport car is throwing out, you just have to map the boost correctly so it's not a wallop at once at lower speeds. Also make sure you're running thicker oil, it seems that the new WRX is suggested to have 5W30 so I would suggest using that or bearing life will suffer. For longevity, you just have to ensure good oiling and heat management as well as a tune that's not detonating. The OEM rods are ok to a point but if you want loads of torque at low RPM then you'll need stronger ones and you might as well drop the CR a little while your at it. In theory you'll lose some response by dropping the CR but then that's the sacrifice if you're chasing numbers.

It's not power that will kill the rods, it's the torque. There are guys in the states running ~350bhp to the wheels without having to take the block apart. If your torque is all low down then don't expect the OEM rods to last.

Mine has never done it like that. It used to have some idle instability which it now doesn't. Mark is aware of the issue, the problem is that Teg's dealer will not touch his car due to mods. There's even an oil leak but they've washed their hands.

It was either that or not make one. Blame Euro emission regulations for that, the K series just wasn't able to meet them in N/A form.

The last gen CTR wasn't appealing, it was a hot rep mobile. The EP3 was good but I'm an ex B series CTR owner so a good chassis and engine was the only way to tick boxes. It's not got the soundtrack of old but it outshines that with brute force and surprisingly the ability to deliver it even on some daft roads. The chassis is also a big player in that. The major downside is that the +R is only on or off. I would like the throttle changes without the firmer suspension for b roads. As with all cars, the prices have been going up. When I was looking at the 86 I was shocked that the base RS Megane was £25k. The tech on the GT puts it in the right market and it's got way more than the FN gen. I doubt anyone will buy a standard R anyway. The only one to really compare it to is the FD2 CTR, which was also well into the £20ks if imported new.

Sits around the price of the Golf R, but is quicker and handles better. £32k for the GT which has all the toys. £30k for a standard R. For pricing, they actually got it right IMO. It's a superior car to the rest of the hot hatch fleet; VXR, RS Megan/Clio, GTi need not apply.... As for the chucked on plastic, apparently it is all functional aero

There's only 1 O2 sensor that is remotely accurate. I guess the other reading is either lambda or the rear O2 output.

Nice chart on Cusco's site showing RPM vs speed etc

We have MAP sensors and James' is scaled to read his boost properly.

I don't mean to sound daft, but why waste a large portion of the screen with RPM and speed which are displayed large enough on the dash?

Ahhh, so it was yours I spotted at FOS on the Thursday. Fairly memorable plate.

It's fine. I guess insurers see mods as additional risk, therefore if you declare but don't have them on then you're actually over covering yourself. I have done it a few times that way and stated that this is the case, my alloys virtually never go on the car but are declared in case I need to. I've done it before where they have noted my intention to fit parts and then I just called them up to confirm when done, avoiding any admin fees. Best advice, talk to your insurers and ask how they prefer to do it and how their cover works.

What they mean by Japan only is that it was only listed on Toyota Japan's part catalog. It would be compatible with all cars that come with a 4.1FD, which is almost all of them. It does state that the pinion seal won't fit but I'm sure there's a simple way around this. However James it's a bad thing to assume that they would let you know if it wouldn't fit. There has always been variance between UKDM/EDM and JDM cars. Luckily on this car most of the decent parts are identical.

Good idea: ring your insurers and ask them about what you intend to do and what the impact is (cover/cost etc). The last thing you want is to do something and then find out they wont cover you

Is this branded or a Toyota part?

Just cos torque drops a little on most dyno charts doesn't mean it'll feel like the torque has fallen out the arse of the car. I bet that if you drove a car with any manifold with a torque dip better than the stock car you wouldn't notice it. Hell my car felt better just with a remap without any exhaust mods at all. The reason you feel it is because the torque drops at a rate that the bhp drops too for a brief period, if you eradicate that drop in horse power it'd make the difference. I think some people worry way too much about dyno charts (and other stuff). If you don't want a "boxer" rumble, don't buy a UEL manifold