Kodename47

The car has coilovers as standard. So no-one is fitting coilovers, they are replacing their stock one with pre-done kits. Sorry, saying coilovers in that way is an annoying Americanism.... As for what's best, why can't you have a spring kit that can handle? The Litchfield kit was designed from a handling standpoint over a drop, as were the TRD/STi offerings due to the fact the drop wan't that large. There are also a couple of kits in the US that have been developed similarly and when mated to well spec'd dampers will equal any out of the box kits. In fact some of those are now being offered up as matched kits. Admittedly the stock dampers aren't of the same quality as some of the aftermarket ones, but they certainly aren't the worst ones about. A pre-done coilover kit may be the one of the easier ways, but it's definitely not the only way to improve the handling using the main suspension components.

I believe both Rob and SpecK had them leak within a short period after install and I heard similar issues elsewhere. They all got replaced but it's not isolated so IMO I wouldn't get them. They aren't actually dampers either, but inserts which you have to cut open the stock struts and replace the innards. The Bilsteins are relatively new, B6 for "standard" ride height and the B8 for lowered, although on your drop it seems that the recommendation is B6. The guys at Part-Box seem to do them, just over £600 a set. Always worth asking to see if Fensport or Abbey can get them too

Careful of that.... the Konis have had their issues and I would be wary of just bushing for the sake of. You can over-bush a car that it quickly becomes un-compliant on the road. I haven't felt the need for it on my car running similar power. When my shocks die I will be looking at the Bilstein shock offerings or the uprated Sachs dampers that come on the MY15+. Diff bushing might be or more worth to you, unless you feel an issue then why change? Mark @ Abbey has a good idea of what to change on a road car

One of the better catted UEL manifolds: http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/ft86-catted-uel-header-1397.html I can't really think of any other UELs that have a cat from a budget brand, unless of course you go for the eBay ones. TBH the exhaust system doesn't make a huge difference, the manifold is by far the best for gains as well as a remap. The guys in the states claim that a manifold & tune on the rest of the stock system will net you 90-95% of the gains that you could get with a full system. If budget is a concern and performance is you main priority then do that. Don't forget that you have the option to ditch the cat in the manifold and keep the onein the front pipe. Also, the biggest changes in a remap is the cam changes for an exhaust manifold. To add the rest of an exhaust system at a later date will require no real changes.

Or get an ECUtek license and do the 1st maps yourself, with the help of the OFT crowd in the US using the off the shelf maps, then just pay for a custom map when it's all done.

Er.... Shell hasn't been 98RON since Optimax was rebranded. V-Power has always been 99RON We don't get 98 in the UK Try looking: http://events.imeche.org/docs/default-source/team-info-2013/shell-v-power-product-information-2013.pdf?sfvrsn=2

I'd assume that he will be using a Euro series as the US ROMs aren't compatible outside of the US. The base maps are similar but the cars are mildly different that a C/D series tune won't work properly. But then you'd only copy across the tables you need and not a whole map. US is C (manual) and D (Auto), UK/Euro/Aus/Japan all use G (manual) and I (Auto). He should be using ZA1JA01G or later ideally. Our 99RON is just short of what the Americans call 93 so if he's using a 91 basemap then all should be well. JV has a mixed set of reviews, ever since he burnt someones car to the ground... He's still a competent tuner (from reliable sources), just don't catch him on a bad day.

It's a JV tune?? There are ways to speed up the accelerator dead spot, just stamp on the pedal 5-10 times before you fire it up. If you're still getting "lag" it's just that the fuel trims are a bit high.

You also run NS2-R Lee? That'd be the 3rd, including me, that use them on the 86 that I know of and I've seen some good reviews on some other decent spec cars too. But yes, the standard NS2 is a very different tyre.

I wouldn't go near NS2's, they have never had good reviews.

3rd October

If you do have to run on lower octane fuel then the ECU adapts, the Eco mode most tuners use is pretty much the stock map anyway. As others have said, 98 RON is more available in Europe and is of much better quality than our 97 and almost on a par with our 99. If you stick to the big brands then your golden: Shell / Total (France) / Agip / Repsol (Spain) / BP / Esso

Difference between suck and blow.... The big numbers are all turbo which blow through the TB. Your SC pulls air through the TB With PD blowers you want the air path to be as unrestricted as possible. It comes a trade off as with everything. The other thing to consider, that you missed, is compatibility. Not many will be compatible with the Sprintex charge pipe

Probably, you could possiblyly buy some for ~£500 that may be better, would it be worth it though? With a PD you want to avoid as much hot air as possible. When you say best for airflow, what do you mean? On yours now? With the 335? Cosworth deem the OEM capable for ~300bhp+. If you want more for the 335 then look at the AVO one, IMO looks one of the better ones, cheap at £420.... http://www.fensport.co.uk/Parts/Model_108/Category_17/503 If you're bothering with that though, you may as well throw in a bigger TB as that'll be the next restriction. Seems some think that'll be a restriction before the airbox.

You only have that one resonator and I noticed almost no change in noise in removing it... I only did it NA but the same priciples apply. You gain more by opening up the entrance to the airbox but I would advise against removing the cold air feed completely. You can buy metal charge pipes which will help to increase the sound.

I've done it before and then put it back on. You need a thing called a drill Blanked it off with a rubber cap and a jubilee clip. Did it prove any benefir? Nope. Think of it an an extra reservoir of air for when you stamp on it. It's on post filter side.

The knee pads will be hard to paint as they are one piece for both sides I believe. Nice what you did to the mini. I quite like the OEM gauges in the 86, thinking about putting some BLUE LEDs in place of the white ones to change them.

Although with some painted carbon the weave is visible... I'm also with the above 2. Having had my light cover arrive in dipped CF pattern, next to real CF it looked awful. Personally I think the CF wrap is totally overdone and that if you are going to match the exterior then just go for a closely matched yellow or spray them properly in the same paint. It's not that hard to do yourself if you get it in cans either. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-HQ-SPRAY-PAINT-KIT-J37R-D-JAUNE-SYRIUS-NACRE-03-11-FREE-GIFT-/331095468126?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d16d3e85e

Like the new blue colour....

Just decided to fill in the gaps in the wheel? Did you take the wheel apart? 3M stuff may be a better bet.

tS/Aero are the only options worth it

To be fair the usual issue with Turbo kit copies is one of 2 things, poor quality turbo and manifold strength. You know that the turbo in this kit is good, it's just whether the manifold holds up especially seeing as the turbo is mounted high up. That being said, SBD's defence was that it was made in the same location as the GReddy, therefore the quality shouldn't be any difference. James, what other cooling mods have you got on the way? A turbo mounted there will give you a fair amount extra heat under the bonnet. It's also worth considering that if you're looking for more than 250bhp then the shorter FD will make the car more of a handfull. It'll make the 1st few gears fairly useless in anything worse than dry roads. Considering you'll be looking at similar low end torque to what I have, I wouldn't dream of a sorter FD in my car unless I put on daft wide wheels

That's because it's a copy. I've seen pictures where the GReddy logo is still visible despite attempts to remove it

If you use the code SPC_ASLMT15U you get more of a discount

Could you not just jack the car up and go the same way as you would when changing the indicator bulbs?