Kodename47

And I don't count....

No, it moves the valve opening/closing earlier or later by retarding/advancing the cams. It doesn't work by purposefully rotating the cams while the valves are open, I doubt the oil actuation would be quick enough. Obviously there may be a chance of minimal duration change as the cams move but that's not the intended operation.

Pretty much.

It wouldn't, it would just look daft. Honestly though, if not done correctly you could cause issues. You'd have to be completely clueless though. I'm just wary as most caliper paint wont hold up well to decent temperatures and will melt easily.

Done: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2267882#post2267882

Not unless that was the cause of the failure.

AVCS (we have a Subaru, use the correct terms) doesn't affect duration. Duration is the amount of cam angle where the valve is open, the cam lobes can't magically be re-ground by the ECU.

5.4 IIRC, so you want 6 litres. That's a cheap oil change at £120.....

ECUtek/OP2/OFT can. Not sure about the generic BT devices.

Why I should be selected: I'm the Don.

Yes. Need more than 1 litre though...

I doubt many would think that cutting a hole in the metal bodywork of an engine bay as simple DIY The trims have no direct path into the engine bay:

So what are you thinking is a good idea for a basic FI setup like the Sprintex/HKS for occasional track abuse? 0W30/5W40? Oil cooler required or just a sump like RacerX?

Just call or email any of the show plate companies. They wont be legal though.

Some will argue that having something that generates heat near the oil pan is a bad idea vs those that worry about engine bay temps and the issues that causes. The routing is a little less important as I bet most of the up and down turbo manifolds mount the turbo barely any further away from the exhaust ports.

Here's the smaller sizes on mine:

1st photo has to be Keith's new wallpaper....

I'll be honest here. Before you go ditching your current manifold for a "better" one, how do you know if it's better or worse without any proof, notably knowing what the car is running at the moment. It's easy to get caught up in internet chatter over what's better/best, but you could be sacrificing a decent amount of money in new parts and re-tuning for very little gain. Going by feel is great if you just buy something and you're happy, but if you're going for best performance then you can't really quantify that without a dyno and proving/disproving a setup. I don't know a lot about the Ace Stuff. They seem to have done decent R&D on their setup though, just keep an eye on their developments.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88696 http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80609

I'd be looking at the Ace manifold personally, not seen/heard of Revolution.... actually I reckon you'll get barely noticable gains by changing to a different manifold, certainly without being dyno tuned. Glwts though.

eBay? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-GT86-Manifold-Header-includes-embedded-200-Cell-Sports-Cats-by-Top-Gear-/311354816507?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item487e3177fb

Just buy an entry to an event on their website

Bought stuff from Nengun years ago, would buy from again. One of the more reputable parts companies.

Pink

Just putting this out but pictures have been put up of a white GT86 on it's roof on the side of a Motorway/Dual Carriageway spotted by someone on the way home from JapFest. Just hoping that everyone is ok and everyone has checked in. It's on standard wheels but may well have a non-stock exhaust. No idea on reg.... May not even be Japfest related but seeing as you had a large number of attendees then it was worth the update.