Kodename47

You can't trust the OEM sensor down in those AFR ranges.

BC = Breakfast Club

I wondered if it was a BC meet on Sunday as I saw loads of nice cars on the A27 when I was down near Lewes and Brighton. Some nice roads down near Goodwood for driving too.

I'd imagine that these days that most tunes are base maps then just touched up for individual cars. Once a tuner gets a few throough the door you manage to work out what works and the maps to change. Mase (Steve Mason: http://maseengineering.com/blog/) was always the go-to guy when I was in the Honda scene, they fly him in from the States. I think Spencer has had his Boxer Spyder done by him too. I just wondered if you knew him as he's always at Honda meets like Mimms etc.

Isn't that what everyone wants, more power/faster acceleration? You can do anything you want with the mapping. Being a Honda lad, why not get Mase do it? My mate keeps badgering me as he knows Mase well. Come to mention it, I wonder if you know my mate Spencer.... used to have a S/C EP3.

Ramps and then jacking on front subframe or rear diff. Nice and quick and gets the whole front/rear axel up quickly. It's also what is recommended in the manual. Ages ago I bought some caravan ramps, much cheaper than any car ones and work well: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-of-Caravan-Motorhome-Camping-Levelling-Blocks-Ramps-TS570-/181604474781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a48785f9d

How to make the OEM reads look better: If you have a private plate, just get a shorter plate. Better than an import plate as it doesn't have the height. I have a thing about JDM sized plates on UK cars. Won't you need a friendly MOT tester too?

So's Rob's/Jordan's without a similar outlay Mike's Cossy isn't far behind either. Possibly better, not necessarily bigger.... Only really relevant on track though. Thicker oil will help, especially with the pressure drop of an oil cooler in the system. 0W30 or 10W30 would be ideal for track use, only if you do longer sessions then an oil cooler is a must. Road and sprints it's not really necessary.

You can't

An ECU license

It's not a real rally, it's just expensive/nice cars in convoy visiting places and partying.

Does the V2 HKS not have a relatively flatter torque curve than the v1? It's not got quite the same as the Cosworth/Sprintex however it'snot far off.

Tunbridge Wells? They've been pretty good with me so far.

Thought I recognised the user name from somewhere else

I guarantee that the difference between any 2.5" exhaust system will require no or very minor changes. The difference between that and a 3" will be only a check of AFR (which isn't really consistent on the OEM sensor) and a minor tweak to the ignition timing. Even manifold changes may only require minor adjustment of the AVCS, if at all. S/C valve timing strategy isn't the same as setting up an N/A car. Intakes require a different form of adjustment, but even that is a quick change of the MAF scaling just to adjust for the change in airflow over the sensor. The OEM has air straighters so I wouldn't bother changing it as the readings are likely to be more consistent than some/most aftermarket kits.

Not really, most exhaust setups will be similar enough to not warrant a massively different tune to another, even the manifold setups. To send off a tune and get an adjusted map is a very quick process. Back when I was Litchfield tuned I've done a log, sat in a car park and sent it off, 20 mins later I had a new map on the ECU. Having seen the level of service that Cosworth offer I wouldn't be surprised if you could "book" a timeslot with them.

Why warranty? In the states they call it the tuner package, it's just sold as hardware only and costs less money. There's nothing that says you have to use a Cosworth tune, the hardware would still be covered for defects.

Someone on the other forum said his was going to be custom tuned from a Cosworth map at Fensport as Cosworth has given them the green light. There's quite a bit of data you wouldn't get from just data logging. The things that would make me want the Cosworth tune can't be easily extracted.

Apparently he is...

That's because the power never drops. On the stock car the HP briefly drops in the torque dip which is what you can feel, yours doesn't. Anyway, I put a brief (crap) comparison together: Yours vs my Sprintex 75mm & 70mm with Stock exhaust (only 1 HFC)...It's worth noting that the Sprintex is showing as power/torque @ the hub vs the Cosworth @ the fly. For those who are surprised by the "lack of torque" ~60lb.ft increase over the stock ~150. That's over a 35% bump

Wouldn't make much difference, the Sprintex cars have a similar minor blip. Individual mapping would improve it though.

You put on the ZA1JA02G file then, it's the last compatible file for our ECUs. Most are running the A01G. I have a feeling the 2 is noted as Australian as it was the only market it was discovered in that I'm aware of.

I'd say that it's generally better. With the exception of UK VPower, the European SUL is better as they only seem to offer 95 or 98 RON. I did some calculations on my trip to France and Spain and most good quality fuels have better MON rating than any UK fuels, which is actually more relevant for our engines than RON IMO. Total in France is cheap and everywhere. Esso, BP and Shell also easily available. Repsol is also good but I think that's only available in Spain.

Lots of thin coats is the key. My 1st go at front and rear lasted well but I had a couple of bits where stops caused holes. I've redone the front one using the thinner coats and came out well and survives jet washing no problems.

There is a Nameless copy by PLM available. The PLM quality is usually quite good by all accounts and is about half the price of the original....