Kodename47

I'm sure the JDM ones are the same, it's only the US ones that are pinned differently. That's because they are a fair bit better (IMO). Of course the 2nd gen Valenti's (Revo) are nice, whenever they get released.

You'd lose ride comfort due to the added stiffness, worth noting for a DD especially if you drive poor roads regularly where a bit of tyres flex helps.

He has an Auto so the ratios are different anyway. You'll need a more extreme FD on the Autos as all the ratios are longer. 6th will only ever be a cruise gear unless you change out the cog, even with the S/C it's only ever used when cruising around.

What's the plan come MOT time? Not many running without a cat...

It's not just economy for the FD, for me I'd worry about revs on the motorway doing your head in especially if you have an aftermarket exhaust. 6th is always just a cruise gear until you really up the power. The Crawford blocks will be a marmite thing, personally why buy a car designed to rev and then lower where it makes peak power? That may just be because I come from a background of high RPM cars....

Rob, trying to make your engine bay look more like mine again?!

Surely advertising another vendor in Fensport's thread is a bit wrong

Steve's aware its on here He's also wants it known that he's not a Yank.... he's an ex-Brit Aussie

It does make the exhaust a fair bit louder

Cosworth engineers told me that it's there for low down torque, I have tried it on and off and you do notice the difference in daily driving and I put mine back on. Obviously a track car won't need it as it's only at WOT and that's why the Griffon had it deleted.

Fuel trims prossibly, I've looked through A00, A01 and A02 ROMs and there is no difference in any of the fuel tables or MAF scaling and both timing tables. Haven't seen any of the older ones however I doubt that these are any different and most are running at least the A00 calibration. There are variations across the different regional ROMs though.

Get it changed mate, mine started doing this. It will just keep on doing it now until you get a new battery especially after the cold we've had.

James, put the big resonator back in. It's there for a reason, it helps with torque at certain revs.

I could have shown you last time we met: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16518

I've seen no changes to anything that should affect performance between earlier and later ECU revisions. Timing and fueling are all the same....

Both the decat and induction stuff are easy to fit.

You'd feel the power dropping off after 6.4k. Jay, not worth doing with a SC as you're not relying on the natural harmonics of the manifold to draw air into the engine.

Some say it will as you've removed the harmonic damping of the crank, others say that the flat 4 doesn't require it and will be fine. Who you believe is up to you, personally I'd err on the side of caution and I won't be doing it. The main decision is whether you're keeping the car long, as I bet many who have read the advice have said "bugger it, I won't have the car if the engine does lunch itself" or whether you want to risk based on forum knowledge. Certainly on this platform it's too new to know if it's an issue or not As for evidence, I've not seen any directly to suggest it is detrimental, but as above it could take a long time to surface.

It's already fairly easy to find on the manual on the internet, as I found out when waiting to board the ferry to the Isle of Wight. From memory, the only things you can do are disable interior motion detectors and disable motion sensors (for boarding boats/trains etc). Neither of these are an issue on a public forum as you can only do it if you're in the car and it's already unlocked. FWIW, I can't remember the options.

You can't tell much by the MAF reading, because a) you can change it and the intake will play a massive part.... even different filters make a difference.

Steve's post from ft86club. He does like his quick guide posts...

Just to confirm that the STi lips are for a GT86 and not a BRZ?

It's not really how it works. The value is what it's worth in a total loss situation, basically market value. You wouldn't say that a stock car is worth £25k every year upon renewal. Upping the "value" of the car is going to do nothing in the event of a payout, except it may raise your premium. The only time it's of any value is with a GV policy where you are guaranteed the return of the value you state. If I've read your statement wrong and that you just had to declare how much each mod cost item by item, well, I've not come across that before. Remember you'll never get full value of the mods in the case of a minor accident (wear and tear and depreciation) and a total loss will see you get what the car is worth on the market. A 2012 car with £10k mods will likely be worth no more than £20k on the 2nd hand market, if you consider that stock cars are struggling for £14k. Will someone honestly pay another £6k for the rest....

Rarerims might be worth a shout too.

Guaranteed value? If not, that's a strange value for the car as that's not what they'd pay out in any case.... I put mine down as £19k as I doubt I'd get a penny more for a total write off. You don't get the full value back for mods either in that case....