Kodename47

Everyone I spoke to offers it pretty much standard.... I always ask about GV policies, of which only one company I spoke to offer. I didn't give Prestige a go this year however, after we spoke last year I thought I'd wait until the Mrs is over 25. Will see what they offer then.

Odd, they bent over backwards for me both this and last year. They were the only competitive quote I could get, however it's down to the other half being young that's the issue with all other insurers it seems.

My P3 does oil pressure.... Nice "easy" place to pass cables behind the drivers dash....

The diffuser would be easily removable/swapable and wont leave any unnecessary holes.

Wrong and wrong.... you can turn on the P3 without the car being on and the ECUtek cable shows an LED all the time even when the car is off.

What's your budget? I always suggest, in this order: 1. Good pads and fluid 2. Better vented discs I believe that is all that's necessary. If you track a fair bit you could get good quality track pads and then swap in/out when needed. I have no doubt that good track pads would easily out-do the basic multi-pot calliper "upgrades". Then again, if you're into your big brakes then go for AP/Cosworth IMO and you might as well go for a bigger disc. No point in just going for bigger callipers. The OEM Subaru Brembo setup is an option for the fronts too and if mated with better pads should be a good combo.

You could go for many of the none whining SC options....

No, not in the UK anyway.

I was hoping for a mere ~250ish, I figured a bump of 15-20 seemed reasonable. Yours seems to have jumped up even further, so maybe there's more to be had than I expected.

Looks like 260-ish (Shameless edit.... I didn't read the scale properly!). Figures look good, Curve looks nice and flat too...... just need to get mine fitted now Rob, is it a noticable bump? You changed anything other than the pulley?

Aren't the bearings designed to "absorb" minor debris during the running in cycle? Rather that than scoring the crank. I'm sure that's the case these days.

Isn't the Cosworth charger already up for sale?

Lets not forget that Adrian does run race fuel (108 RON?) which is a massive safety net for the CR too to make those figures. Also worth noting that alot of the Americans quote WHP so those running ~350whp will be about your 400 goals. Steveoexige's car is running decent power from a non-AVO setup and is still on the original internals IMO, although I don't think he's had his on a dyno yet.

Of all the cars at Millbrook when I went, Kris' car sounded the best IMO and there was also a Milltek, Cobra, Cosworth and my custom system. If I hadn't had mine made I'd be all over this. Awesome value!

V Power is 99 RON and 87 MON minimum which equates to 92.5 AKI (or American octane rating). IIRC that Momentum is 99/87 so 93 AKI, however Momentum's extra octane is due to Ethanol content. V Power does the best job of keeping an engine clean. I have no MON data for BP, however Esso is 97/86 so is probably similar. I didn't bother to collect data on 95 fuels.

Buy an auto folding module 1st, the rest is just wiring

75mm:

75mm runs at ~9 psi, 70mm runs at ~11 psi so I'd imagine around 11.5 psi on the 69mm.

Coming from a Honda background, I know that the Dixcel stuff was always popular with the trackday lot. May have to pick up some of the M series....

Pistons: http://www.fensport.co.uk/Parts/Model_108/Category_12/4672 Rods: http://www.titanmotorsports.com/pauter-rods-scion-frs-subaru-brz-fa20-.html (Pauter or Carrillo, Pauter is cheaper and probably suitable for your needs) Decent engine builder labour (I'd recommend Abbey) will be a fair few hours too. As a quick guide, here's what a company in the states will charge to do it: http://www.frsmod.com/products/fa20-built-motor-package-for-frs-brz

^^^ That's actually very good value. Depending on how much headroom is left in the Cosworth tunes, just adding an aftermarket exhaust should see some gains anyway without touching the map.

So is the standard car....

It's on the Cosworth website with full details

Well its the retrofit of the heating system that is harder work for those who want to "upgrade". TBH most who wanted either of the leather options would have bought it with that. The cheaper option would have been to buy a car with standard seats if the plan was to change them out.

Having issues after changing the rear suspension?