Kodename47

You went for the full Racerom upgrade pack?

I think the idle just needs raising by 50/100 RPM. I can't remember what the OEM is set to. Some of you may also be on the earlier ECU calibration too.

B Specs are definitely available for the 86, will be a bit more friendly on a day to day basis I'd imagine. IIRC my EK9 had B specs, although may have been NR. http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/sis.html?_nkw=Toyota%20GT86%20BRZ%20project%20Mu%20B%20spec%20full%20set%20high%20performance%20brake%20pads&_itemId=251525230338

Project Mu. As you don't track you could probably go for the B spec or NR: They aren't cheap, however I loved my PMu on my last car.

Plug in cable, select ROM, click programme. Job done. Oh and Dave, I'm sure you should put "doubt" somewhere in your post.... Grammar police strikes back!

Going higher revs will be more than changing the limiter, improving the oil system to maintain pressure and internals would need to be spec'd to suit. You'd have to build from the ground up with all those goals in mind and that's not cheap, quick or easy. I just think if you're running big boost you could get high enough figures without the extra headache of trying to run higher RPM. If big HP is your goal, it might be worth switching to turbo in the future. Although the 335 on a moderate pulley would be pretty good, along side any of the larger centrifugal offerings.

Don't think about % think of it as fuel volume. A lot of that list will be interesting, cams and higher revs will equals a big budget to do properly. I doubt it would be worth the risk of a higher limit on a bigger charger.

All exhaust systems will give similar results.

You upgrade the fuel setup when the standard setup cannot cope and is nearing full duty cycle. However on petrol you'd have to be pushing over 300bhp to do that. Its not 20% capacity, its just that the PI delivers 20% of the fuel injected at that point on the stock map. To put into perspective, the DI can cope with injection time of 6-7ms, PI up to ~15ms. On stock configuration the car is little more than 3ms on either. As the DI system is much higher in pressure it delivers more fuel for the same injector pulse width.

You could always buy the license and cable and map it yourself. Use the OFT tunes as a base...

Welcome. Good to see another Honda head. What dynos are you after? You'll find loads over on ft86club.com for all matter of configurations. The FA20 is more mid torque based than the K20. Where are you based?

Stock both are active at high RPM, 20% PI and 80% DI. It's DI only through most of the range during WOT. However its a full 3D table so varies with load and revs.

No DI does. The 2 systems are separate, I doubt that any compatible DI injectors are about and if they are they will be more expensive that the port ones and more difficult to swap. If you can get port injectors that satisfy the fuel requirements then why bother with the DI? The DI already is capable of providing more fuel than the port system but is more limited due to the fact it's single mode injection.

Get a new battery on warranty? May just be a weak one, some have been known to have them. Shouldn't happen if left for a few weeks IMO.

Yeah, badly worded while I was in my half awake state... So they are going back on? I would definitely advise that they do as both are beneficial.

It's hard to tell from those pics but is all the plastic between the top of the radiator and the slam panel? Can't see the air feed either, although that could be hidden too.

Best to check the american forum and look in the FI section. It might be worth having an idea of which kit you favour as turbo/SC placement will have an impact on the routing.

Just work around it, everyone who's FI here still has the stock one in place. Why risk it? Why keep mentioning the warranty? You know as well as we do that it only affects parts that you change...

Circa 40bhp loss, maybe less on Adrians as he has some lighter drivetrain parts fitted. As for lower octane, 10 RON lower would equate to quite a bit of timing advance coming out. For a road tune, best look at Pitman/SpecK as theirs are both fairly similar but in in road going guise. I reckon a full setup like that on 98/99 RON would be round about 350bhp (+/-15) at the fly.

They may have changed and if they have it will have been for the better. Maybe just manufacturer has changed though?

James, your theory is all wrong. You can't look at cylinder/charge temperatures as the only cause of oil temperature. Is it surprising your coolant temps are no different? Of course not, they are thermostatically controlled and the stock rad is efficient. The fact is you haven't got proof of a couple of degrees difference, that could at least be down to variation anyway so isn'tisn't even reliable, to then state that as fact is ridiculous. You berate people who have better technical knowledge than yourself.... Good going, bro.

This is spot on. Oil temperature is very related to RPM which is why track usage will see higher temperatures. When out in Spain sat at 130km/h (3.2K-ish) on the motorways the oil would sit around 106C but as soon as you drop to more normal speeds it almost instantly drops to around 100C. I also agree, an oil cooler is not necessary for road use. I'd probably consider the baffled sumps first that Abbey offer over an oil cooler. Larger capacity and made of alloy so should help reduce temps a little without the potential of pressure drop.

I'm sure the temperature has changed since you quoted it Road and track oil temperatures are different. No matter what James says, the SC does heat up oil quicker than a standard car and high oil temps do become an issue. The temperature ranges that the oil can handle is only part of the picture, as that's only how far you can push it before the oil degrades. As for oil pressure, it all depends on where you take the reading. I take mine at the filter, at the stock pressure sensor location.

If you don't want the cat then any make of front pipe will do really, it's only 2 flanges and a short length of pipe. Putting in a HFC won't free up much noise if that's what you're after. Berk seems popular and not too expensive.

Just replace the 2nd cat with a HFC or decat, job done.