Kodename47

I meant as in changes to things like LCA or anything else connected to the struts. Basically if this a direct easy swap over or a bit more involved. They were changed for a reason, the originals (Prova?) aren't of bad quality but I'd assume the new ones to be better. If my springs cause the dampers to go I'll contemplate swapping to these.

The description of the Primo definitely sounds the same as the FR-S. No dual climate system, no HIDs, no spoiler. The FR-S isn't quite the same as the base model in Japan which has smaller wheels and brakes etc. They stated hill start assist when the original came out, possibly the same mistake? The Sachs probably won't be an upgrade, but no reason you couldn't just order them as parts. I wonder if it's just the shocks or anything else has changed as well.

HKS have a twin charged car....

Does removing the restrictor not change the characteristic of the curve? This argument can go both ways as you could say that changing the turbo or putting on a smaller pulley will also boost figures. I'm not trying to detract from the HKS, the V2 looks great, much better than the V1 and has good potential. It's also well priced at the moment.

I think the HKS system is slightly better than some of the other centrifugal systems at lower RPM. It would also be the only other option I would consider, better than the other 2 (or 3?) Rotrex kits and preferable IMO to the Vortech.

Some people do love the BBK look and if that's the case then there's not many options than to do it. Just make sure you don't overbrake the car, you will need decent tyres if you start increasing disc diameter and swept area. This isn't really an issue on kits that use the same size disc and just have bigger 4/6/8 piston calipers, but then you don't get any real "increase" in braking. The advantage is that if the pistons are directional then the feel and fade resistance could be improved. The standard pads can give up a little if really pushed, but I have used them on track and not had any issues bar a slightly vibrating brake pedal. This went away after the pads were less abused after more road use. The only real "weak link" is the pads, and it's a damn site cheaper and easier to just replace 2/4 pads than a brake whole system. The calipers are the same as on most recent WRX's, so heavier cars. The pistons are of decent size and twin pot design on the front.

The HKS charger is a HKS unit, not made by Rotrex Also remember the HKS car has an aftermarket manifold which will help.

An simple suggestion (and one I often make) but why not just put decent pads, decent fluid and possibly "upgraded" lines on the OEM setup? If you can get well designed discs, like the DBA ones, that are better at dissipating heat then that'd be a added bonus. People always seem to underestimate the OEM system on this car. Unless you're really heavy on your brakes on track or feel the need for the look of bigger brakes then that would be an equally efficient setup.

D2 quality over the years has been a bit suspect. I know that D2 and K-Sport were once pretty much rebranded items but I thought that the 2 had started producing different lines so they are different products. Don't just assume that because they are manufactured together that they are the same, albeit that you'd expect build quality to be similar. If I went off plenty of old reviews, I wouldn't be putting D2s on any car of mine. Just a case in point, TRD brakes are manufactured by Brembo but they aren't the same spec as the off-the-shelf Brembo offering

IMO the yellow isn't that nice if it's the same one as the car at Goodwood FOS, which is a shame. It's not Teg's car by any standard.

Silly question perhaps, but why did you think putting those on was a good idea? I'd have thought a visual check upon swapping them you'd think that they were a bit thin....

Good choice mate! Bar the big spoiler, best looking model to date. Interesting to see the same specs as the original FR-S on offer.

Are you sure!?

1st to go on the gymkhana course meant that I didn't really know where I was going so I set some rubbish times and ended up spinning up the Caterham a fair bit. Also, when driving around on the pan my 86 was fairly successful at holding a decent drift..... so I'll use that as my reasons for the prize!

This wasn't really a miss fire.

Great article. Was up at Abbey last week and had a good chat with Tony, it was a while since I last popped in and its clear the progress that he's making.

Not everyone has heated seats....

My point is that if it's cold enough to not need it then it won't use it. You could have a truely well thought out solution, its not a case of IAT OR boost OR whatever, you could set up custom maps on whatever parameters you want and a combination of the lot. If you can control the pump, you could have a real 3D spray map as well. For example you could have it do all of this: An ACT of over 45C the spray would be on if TPS over 35% Spray is on always over 5000RPM Spray comes on 3500RPM+ if ACT is over 40C Again this is just for cooling purposes, although it would be possible to have timing maps running simultaneously for WMI on the same setup. The ECUtek custom maps are pretty powerful And that could be enabled on one mapswitch mode, no need to flick a switch or any extra wiring in the cabin.

I could be half tempted by a water only solution purely for inlet temps, but it will need a decent setup time which I don't really have at the moment. A DIY kit does kind of interest me just because I like tinkering. I would be looking at full ECUtek integration to ensure a fully "smart" setup. I would have thought that to have a variable setup you would need an injection solenoid as trying to vary output off the pump alone could be an issue? Hence why standard injectors are solenoid activated. I don't see any reason why you couldn't have an IPW setup from the CPC output. If you remove the CPC it also opens up an input signal source, one of 2 that can be used easily by ECUtek (the other being the rear O2 connection). Having a fully ECUtek controlled setup allows for multiple triggers, off hand any useful ones: - Boost/VE (SD) - Intake Temps - TPS As I'd use it just for cooling purposes to improve the SC efficiency, you could get it to only become active when ACTs go over a certain temperature and throttle/boost is over a set percentage. That way you have an efficient system too that's not active when you don't need it, even under boost.

DIY... you can do your own kit for well under £200 I reckon: http://www.turbomirage.com/water-alcohol-injection-parts-list.html Using ECUtek and custom maps, it would be easy to reuse the CPC solenoid (like the turbo boys do for EBC) for pump and spray control and re-asign one of the sensors as an ECUtek input for low levels as Mark said - you could even get it to flash a CEL to let you know. Simple to have it work on a dedicated map mode and at certain conditions etc, not necessarily boost but RPM/load triggers instead. The basic system: Just no need for a master/presure switch etc

That's because they had tried most of the options. It seems to be: 1. A01 version ROM 2. Swap AVCS systems between banks to prove 3. Replace OCV on affected bank 4. Replace whole AVCS system on affected bank. IIRC there's an "improved" whole new assembly (may just be new OCVs). Fitting/swapping any of the AVCS is an engine out job as you need full access to the head.

If you need a good one for comparison mate I'm willing to help out.... I'm just away for the next 2 weeks.

Yup and ECUtek allows you to adjust the maps (hence creating OFT based maps). Should you also require a tune from a tuner (going FI etc, you can go ahead as all the major tuners here support ECUtek. I think the whole "OFT can be sold on" is a bit of a odd thing, seeing as you can sell on the ECUtek cable and dongle, leaving the current car tuned and also allowing the buyer to just buy a new license and start flashing. If you want to have a look at the maps and to have a play: Download RomRaider: http://www.romraider.com/RomRaider/Download Download Page: http://openflashtablet.com/page33/products/downloads/index.html V2 is only USDM ROMs at the moment but will allow you to compare. Stock ROM can be found from here, seeing as the whole Tactrix flashing is not too dissimilar from OFT: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62332

Plenty of info on how to learn on various forums, namely RomRaider and NASIOC but FT86Club has lots of info too. Tweeking an OTS map is relatively simple if you're willing to take a bit of time and petrol into the equation. What is your decision for leaning towards OFT? I've said multiple times that the OTS maps that they offer can be imported into ECUtek yourself so the only thing you gain with the OFT is an additional screen in the cockpit.

If Adam's using my dealership they have already replaced a set of lights, mine And they arrived within a few days. Adam, if you find out who you spoke to I can see if I can help as one of my mates is one of the senior technicians there.