Kodename47

You dealing with Motorline TW? I find them a funny bunch, depends on who you speak too. I suppose it helps that I know a number of guys in the workshop there... The 2nd gear issue is well known and will go in time, tends to be an issue only when cold. Yours does sound clutch related though as it sounds like it's not fully disengaging, hence the bang and it rolling forward.

I'm taking a holiday through France and Spain and I'm looking for help to find companies that sell decent grade 98 RON or above fuel. I hear generally to avoid supermarket fuel. I'll be making a map just in case I can't get high quality 98 but would like to keep it on decent stuff. So far I have Shell (in France) and Repsol in Spain..... And that's about the stretch of my knowledge.

It's 5-10bhp per degree of timing. So it's just you and Rob that have data? I may as well give up if you just flagrantly ignore the raw data I posted, guess it doen't suit your case well.... BTW that is real data, somewhere in the region of 5 hours worth.

Thanks guys! I've heard to avoid supermarket fuels as they aren't particularly great quality, just like I wouldn't use Sainsburys SUL here. The knock suppression just isn't going to cut the mustard on a mountain run on this engine. I find it odd that Shell doesn't exist in Spain, although makes me wonder if it's branded differently there.

F*** off is it. I get annoyed when my cruising temps get over 40C. I'll reference my graph again, notice that my cruising RPMs that the temperatures are rather constant low 40s when ambient temperatures are over 20C. I don't mind you "sharing data" but TBH the evidence so far is that temperatures have been inflated/exaggerated in all instances where I know what is fact. Real data, post some bloody data logs up.... I'll happily crunch the data for you as I have the tools to do it and shove it up here.

I wasn't saying that your particular setup will make things too cold, you hinted that living in colder climates was beneficial and it's really not always the case. The engine has an optimum operating range. PS - Nitrous is roughly -100C when released.

It's been around for years, it's not a "new science." As for low temperatures: Low oil temperature - can cause loss of lubrication. Low Block Temperatures - numerous combustion issues can arise. This is one of the reason you have warm up routines. Low cylinder temperatures - see above, they are correlated. Low intake temperatures - can mean a poor fuel mixture as fuel does not fully atomize and can form droplets on the valves. Again, correlated with the cylinder temperatures. Obviously, I don't think that you will see the IATs low enough to cause atomization problems on this SC but it's definitely something to consider. What seems to be completely overlooked is the fact that our cars have a way of cooling the charge from within the cylinder. The IAT at the sensor is not the whole story

So none of those use any form of DI then? There's a reason that our car uses 2 sets of injectors and it's not for more fuel TBH the charge cooling, or just the charge temps in general, is the one thing that I think stops this kit being perfect. However, it has only really become an "issue" over the hot summer. Another few months and charge temps naturally drop by around 10C.

I hope they're wearing absorbant underwear! How many of them are running direct injection turbos? As to why I'm happy, the car is tuned to run at those temperatures and makes decent power so what's the issue. It's the efficiency of the charge cooler system that's different.

Don't do it....

At 69C you will be losing power. The IAT Ignition compensations start kicking in at 50-60C (the map has 0 at 50 and a value at 60C). 50-55C seems to be a standard figure that cars are mapped for. James, after putting that graph up and then comparing to your quoted temperatures. There's not a 15C difference as you quoted, it's actually rather less. As for the core, I have read that it can lead to moisture condensing and then pooling/dripping as water droplets but this may only be in certain circumstances.

Well seeing as you want hard data, here's some for you to put peak and average figures into perspective. I've been doing IAT vs Ambient temperature data collection for different reasons. This is a measly 135,000 data points worth of data mind, not just reading off of a display: I can't see that it works well at all, put some actual data up! II just can't see how this is best placed, you're cooling the coldest area of the intake. It's the S/C that generates the heat and water is actually a decent heat conductor, once the cooling effect of the spray has reduced it will still heat up by the effect of compression. Plus you run the risk of condensation on the laminova core, taking liquid out of the air charge. Fact, you want to inject the mixture post blower to have the biggest impact. I'd certainly be keeping an eye on the oil in the S/C, you run the risk of contamination too. IMO, this should have been a no expense spared install, you can always plug holes.

James, how were your average and peak temps calculated? It's just I will see temperature figures similar to that on my car..... The one observation I have to make is that you're injecting the methanol before the compressors, which is where the heat is generated. Would you not want to cool down the charge after it's been heated? Like This...... Also how will the mixture affect the internals of the charger (rotors and laminova core)?

What could they do though? Maybe add 10bhp with a remap and possibly a cat back exhaust. There's not much to improve on elsewhere that won't have an impact on emissions. I very much doubt we will see a factory FI variant.

The Aero kit looks better, wait for it.

Whilst this is true, you could use the chance to install a Tapturn which is likely to be more robust than the cheap relays that the lights come with. I also have an eBay relay, which is no different to the one that comes with the Toms BTW. TapTurn is made by a guy in Canada. Gives you the three (or more) blinks when you tap the indicator down and up, like most other cars do these days. It's also LED friendly and can also give some other features. Here's the guys thread with all the info, I know some people have these installed: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33477

Seems like I was pretty much spot on, although the BMW tie in will surely see a straight 6. I'll still hedge my bets on a V lump though, on the basis that Toyota/Lexus have many V engines in their lineup. With multiple electric motors and a decent engine, plus being based on a Z4 I reckon pricewise it's still going to be north of £60k, although a lot of that will depend on exchange rates as the pound is constantly improving over the Yen. The Honda pricetag doesn't seem so far off if you're shooting for a similar type of car, which this release clearly shows that it is

Looks like a french waiter's moustache....

Occurrences of this have happened in America, so far only a few affected though. May well be the relay, have you tried re-seating it? Might be worth investing in a TapTurn....

If you're still on OEM discs, then it won't be disc quality issues.

Here's what Jay is on about: http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/cat/brake-pads/post/Bed-in

Why would discs make a difference? That's down to the pad material. Is it a cold/hot issue? I hear that the StopTech's aren't particularly resistant to fade.

If map 4 was like the one I had, it's just massively reduced throttle mapping but Mark may have changed that since. Launch control has a set requirement: - Car stopped - Into Neutral << This is a stage that is often missed and is an absolute requirement - Into 1st - Throttle to the floor - Adjust revs with the CC stick as required AutoBlip also takes a while to get used to. It's requirements are: - Over 3k - Braking - Clutch Pressed The issue that I found that if you're used to hovering your foot over the clutch, the slightest depression of it if the other 2 requirements are satisfied is that the car will blip while you're still in gear. It can be quite scary! I now only use it if driving aggressively or on track.

Even you were late to the party Rob

Japspeed? Summit? Cusco?