Kodename47

I would deem the compressor unit as what I pictured above, of which the screws are internal. When you said the 210 was an internal swap out, I assumed you meant opening the compressor up. AFAIK you would just unbolt the 210 compressor unit and bolt on the 210+. The unit itself is listed on the Sprintex price list as an individual part but the internals aren't. Also means that you can sell on the original unit.

Same, I'm just improving mine.

No, it's just the compressor unit that gets replaced:

With the smaller pulley there's no issue with a lower rev limit as the torque is everywhere. Its also not purely a heat issue, the unit itself has a 15k RPM limit. Air to air would probably be better, but there's no way to do it with this setup. I don't think the laminova core is particularly efficiency at transferring heat, however it is much better than nothing at all. You'd need a large pulley to bring the 335 down to 210 boost levels, it's also heavier due to it's larger size. I'd also imagine it would take more power to drive it. I think the 210+ is the happy medium to be awesome on this car, which I am tempted to switch when they come available.

With oil temperatures, yes. Will have very little bearing on the cylinder temps though. Cooling the block itself a little may help by reducing water temperatures but when you're force feeding air at 70C+ not much can cool the intake charge down. The coolant itself is usually at 80-90C.

No, but the issue is intake temperatures. You'll start hitting a wall between the 72.5 and 75mm once the charge temps rise and they do, quickly. High compression combined with high cylinder temperatures is a cause of knock, which is why I assume that Ed has gone for reducing the compression as it makes the heat element less critical. You lose power by dropping the compression ratio but then by increasing boost you'll make up for it and be better on the engine.

You will over spin the charger any smaller than that. You'll possibly have to lower the limiter to run even a 69mm pulley.

TRD isn't a big wing

Just for consistency: Group Drifting & Over Grip Limit Handling Course (Saturday 12th July) 1. Stu (FB so no Caterham for me) 2. 3. 4. Cornering Master Class (Saturday 26th July) 1. Pitman (Dave) 2. Stu 3. Faith 4. Special K Group Drifting & Over Grip Limit Handling Course (Saturday 23rd August) 1. Faith 2. Mike 3. Rob275 4. PTDT (Saturday 20th September) 1. Kodename47 2. Steeps 3. hehasmoments 4. Bail 5. 6. I agree with Rob, start with the PDTD Bail as this looks to be the foundation for the rest.

Are you "indicating" that something has changed?

Whilst working on jacks/axle stands isn't impossible, it's certainly a world of difference using proper ramps/stands. Changing my manifold was a pig even on a proper lift, I would have hated to do that laying under the car. I guess if you don't need to use breaker bars at odd angles then jacks will do.

I'm Tunbridge Wells, I did message you before but I don't think you picked it up.

I'd say that's spacers. What size did you go for mate as it looks just right?

They won't be big enough if properly working under the car. Trust me on that one. Even with my jack on full lift I'd want more room.

Yeah, I agree. All he really needed to make it look clean was a proper backplate adapter. I can't imagine it's easy to get hold of though and as you'll never be able to see it anyway, I guess you can get away with it.

The stock map does run very rich, I'm guessing for safety due to the high compression. Even the performance maps should be more efficient than the stock map. Especially when you can reduce/remove the fuel trims as obviously this has a big effect on how the car runs. This is the OEM map: I've highlighted the area that you naturally hit when going full throttle. Low 11/High 10 is rich by any standard, my car doesn't even go into 10s now. Decent tuning should always benefit in both instances once you start tying the systems in together. I managed a good average of 39mpg on my run up to Cosworth last week. And yes, Shell VP is the way to go. Seems to have better knock resistance and helps keep the engine cleaner by all accounts.

Someone's done it, a nice DIY write up:http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67289

The 330/380 is the stage 3 with internal work. You could buy the stage 1.3 upgrade pack to get the manifold should you wish.

I would have a guess that the tie in would be more probable with Subaru given their previous Impress work. SUK may well be more likely to agree over TGB.

Copied from my other post: Don't forget that the tune also includes the ECUtek cable which is £250ish in it's own right. FWIW, I think the 1.1 isn't far off, £2000-2200 is reasonable. The 1.2 will likely be using a much higher quality cat than most aftermarket HFC pipes, Milltek/Cobra etc use decat pipes. These cost money and are required for some European approval. So maybe the extra £800 is justified. A decent manifold is going to be £800-1000 with that kind of heat coating. I don't think its fair to comment on the stage 2 kit. I doubt they'll remove the stock airbox before stage 3 based on what I asked. But it will be more than £3-3.5k, the other systems on the market are.

The original NSX and Supra were direct price comparators. Both c. £60k I believe if you disregard the NSX-R. Very different machines but from the days where all the Japanese manufacturers had flagship cars all in that price band.... Mitsi GTO, Nissan Skyline GTR, Honda NSX and Toyota Supra. I'll be shocked if the FT-1 comes out at a much lower price point to the NSX, but that's just how I think it will happen. If not it will fall into the price bracket of the GTR. If they've talked about a KERS type system in the GT86 then no doubt that's what they'll use on the FT-1. I feel that they won't go FI on the 86, we'll see a larger engine or a hybrid. Also, with the £ to Yen rate improving, hopefully we should see the cost of the cars begin to drop a bit.

They have been looking into it for the Mk.2 GT86, I thought that was common knowledge? If the new NSX has it, I'd be highly surprised if Toyota's flagship sports model doesn't. Electric motors produce torque much earlier than any combustion engine. The FT1 would have to directly compete with the NSX and that already has a very high standard to live up to.

You can try my track tyres if you like? However I probably wouldn't use the NS2 on the road.

I doubt they'd use a Subaru engine anyway. If Honda have, why not Toyota?