Kodename47

Spigot rings are so that the center bore is correct for the car. Most wheels come with these so that they fit various makes and models.

I did this a few times when installing my charger. Under trays are a 10 min job if you can get the front up.

Yes there is.... But the simple answer is you'll be on ZA1JA01G

Current, most up-to-date UK/Euro/Aus Manual Rom: ZA1JA01G The new one is: ZA1JA02G Auto is just a different letter at the end, I can't remember off hand which (F/H). I bet that most are on the old ZA1J700G, there is also cal that most would have been "updated" to on the early idle issues and that's ZA1JA00G.

Rumour has it that the Aussies are getting a new G series ROM which we suspect to be the same as the latest US ROM that is to do with improved idle controls. The UK & Europe also use the G series so there may be a new dealer update available soon if that's worth a punt.... I'm waiting on it to filter through ECUtek as they tend to get them before the dealers do.

There will be at least 1 SC and TC car going if you're interested to have a good close up nosey.

Looks like a face now. Definitely agree about the de-badge.

Possibly, might be worth seeing if the Yanks have done it or if Jay has the time to swap wheels over. I'm not a fan of spacers though so it would rule that out straight away for me. If I was attempting something under the OEM rim, the link I provided above would be my solution. TBH, under the OEM rim these would be fairly lost anyway I reckon.

Keethos, OEM wheels wont fit, not quite enough clearance I believe. I'd be doing this otherwise..... Most aftermarket 17" has enough spoke clearance. You could probably do it by machining off some of the caliper, but then it's far more work. Here's a link to a BBK(ish) kit that will fit that uses the OEM calipers: http://www.racingbrake.com/322x25mm-2-from-277x24mm-p/2127-k-01.htm SpecK, it's not so simple as the fog light bezels. You'd need to route the pipework under the front arches, tere's no direct route... I've yet to see a good (if any?) solution and the Yanks have tried a few ways so far with little/no success. Unless you're willing to cut through the arches..... EDIT - SpecK: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28354 http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39099

I'll pop up in the loft and get it for you tomorrow if I remember. The Crawford blocks are good if you're happier with a shortened rev range. I've got a decent basemap for the Crawford bits should anyone require it for tuning.

I made about 15bhp with just a remap on standard exhaust. 220-225 is what I'd expect with full exhaust system on top. Depends on how it's mapped though.

You can get Techstream from eBay or from torrent sites, however you need a cable (Tactrix) which is the expensive part. Alternatively Toyota should do it for free anyway.

Well, if the tuner adjusts the correct maps There's about 6 or 7 that need to be adjusted to get it to work properly. The reputable tuners on here should know what to change.

You can get brand new front and rear OEM bumpers for (under) £400 + VAT for both. That's a lot cheaper than the aftermarket bumpers which you will have to paint as well.

I'm pretty sure the OEM bumper is cheaper than those aftermarket ones, unless of course you want something else. The thing is with most non-OEM bumpers you really need the whole kit to make it look right which is adding lots of additional cost.

No, I put on a map when I fitted the SC so no chance of it "going bad". Just FYI, you can run the car on the stock map with a supercharger (and turbo) so long as you don't go into to much boost.

Well yes, but that might just be the SC The car wasn't fully mapped until I fitted the manifold. We know the car runs well as it is and the rest of the exhaust is stock.

Nope. HFC > SC > Mani In that order, all over 2 weeks or so.

It's hard to comment - I did most of the bits in one go although it does work. I did fit an HFC on the stock car and it didn't make much of a difference. I haven't used a de-cat pipe on my car at any point.

I wouldn't bank on that, they have a much bigger autoX/track scene than here. Anyway, a thread you may find interesting is by one of the CSG lot comparing actual track use of different pads: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23680 It is worth noting that quite a few run 2 sets of pads, one for road use and the other are proper track pads, where as most of us would want a pad that is suitable for both. BTW, CSG - CounterSpace Garage. They do a lot of suspension and brake work, have 2/3 FR-S/BRZ which have seen more track abuse than most and they are used to driving similar types of car on track (S2k, MX-5 etc). Their opinion is probably one of the most valid on that site.

No I haven't but when I finally get round to it I'll be getting some well reputed pads and fluid. Job done. I can't run a BBK as I'm on OEM wheels but I would be tempted to run the STi kit if I had the space. The only way we can test different discs is to get 2 cars with the same pads and test them back to back. I'd honestly be interested to see the results. My last car I fitted some very decent pads on, and was the only change I made. The difference was unbelievable and the abuse they could take was awesome. It's worth noting that, while not the GT86, the weight to brake sizing was at a very similar ratio.

My general thoughts is that it's more because it has historical benefits, or that on some cheaper pad compounds that do still create gases then there is a benefit. There is also the cosmetic "benefit". Race cars will benefit from the increased bite you get, but noticed what type of discs F1 cars use? I am in no way close minded and at no point have I said that slotted discs are crap. All I've said is that I don't deem anything more than plain discs as necessary (or an upgrade) and spending that money on better pads would, in my opinion, be money better spent. Actually finding a good solution to give a decent air flow to cool the brakes off will give you the best fade resistance over anything else. It's not a simple solution on the 86 though as there's no easy way of opening up the bumper to allow air through. How to make cars stop better: - Better pad material - Increase pad size (more pad to disc contact) - Move pad further away from the centre of the wheel - Increase piston pressure (This is master cylinder related and not to be confused with adding more calliper pistons) - Better tyres (often forgotten) How to reduce fade: - Improve system ventilation - Increase disc size - Increase pad to disc contact area - Better brake fluid

I agree. But there is a shortage of people who have tried all appropriate configurations to give honest feedback. There are some serious track junkies (the CSG lot) on the US forum who spend their time doing very hard laps and their recommendation is that good fluid and pads is all you really need. My personal opinion is that if I've spend good money on decent pads, and plain discs give the same performance as slotted discs, then I want to get the longest life out of my pads as possible. Jay, its just good debate. I just thought it was worth noting what other changes you had made to put it into context.

Ok, so what pads? It's a bit unfair to attribute all your increase in braking performance to slotted discs when you're not running the same pads.

What I was getting at mate was what components have you changed so far? Is it just the discs? Keethos, you wanted a DIY write up: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61978&highlight=STi+brembo