Kodename47

I'm not sure if they are any more, I'm sure someone told me the brake kits are different. When D2 and K-Sport started their suspension kits, it was D2 that got the decent reviews and K-Sports were the "budget" brand but that was years ago and I'm not sure if that's changed. Jay, you never answered the question. Your sig says you have WRX(??) pads and SS brake lines? Could none of this attributed towards the better braking system?

There's a few pics I posted here: http://www.gt86.org.uk/forums/topic/1391-intec-japan-tail-lights-conversion-kit-group-buy-86worx/ None of a white on white though.

Good effort. Just make sure you go for a good brand and keep an eye on them!

Are you still on OEM pads then?

Yeah, but what makes you think our pads put out the gases you're trying to remove? Pad material, as with most things, have moved on over the years. The issues that grooved discs were designed to help decades ago probably don't still exist I'd put money that you'd have had no worse braking on the track with your pads if you had solid discs.

We don't have an analogue oil pressure sensor.

Actually most of the better new discs have J hook design and that's to increase bite. Having pad deposits on the disc isn't actually a bad thing, ever read how to bed in track/race pads? You need to heat the pad up so much to leave a thin layer of pad material on the disc. Again, glazing happens due to the inability to lose heat, slotted wont help that. Have a read of this: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63781 Also it's worth of noting that more pistons ("pots") on a caliper doesn't mean better braking. If you haven't increased the master cylinder size the braking effort isn't increased. The extra braking effort in a typical BBK is due to the larger discs and pads. STi brake setup: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23512

Glazing happens when heat build up occurs. Apparently the gas build up is an issue of the past, all decent new compounds shouldn't have this issue so I'd much rather run well ventilated solid discs than grooved. Grooved discs don't actually ventilate the pads, that's what the vane on the inside of the disc are for. Discs are essentially a heat sink to get heat out of the system, if you take metal away from the disc you're removing surface area that the pad can transfer heat. Brake fade happens when the heat gets too much. Better fluid to prevent boiling and a more resistant pad will win hands down. Twigman, bike brakes are much better ventilated being on an open wheel. Remember cracking occurs when you get a heat differential.

I'm on the same page as Lauren. Drilled discs are a definite no. What make you think drilled and/or grooved are any better than plain discs? If you only track occasionally you'd never notice the difference. If tracking is your thing then go for a decent BBK but the reason for that is because they can take the sustained track abuse better. A good quality plain disc (like OEM) is fine. With discs its all about losing heat, so you want good internal vanes and as much pad contact as possible.

What do you mean fronts complete? If you're on a budget just do pads all round. TBH, I don't see much point in "upgrading" discs anyway. Slotted discs will just wear the pads quicker and you'll gain very little, if any, extra in braking performance. I'd rather have good solid discs any day.

Upgraded pads and fluids will be more than enough of an upgrade. Front will do, rear pads will help but not necessary.

How to make Intecs work..... Make them look like the OEM lights: Rob, a white one just for you: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=77333&d=1399186910 Do it!!!

Performance Friction for the front? Good compromise between daily use and track abuse. Good reviews and also probably cheaper than the others too.

The section about the PI/DI operation is wrong, but apart from that it seems a good read and spot on.

My potential replacements: Eagle F1 Asym Continental CS5 Mitchelin PSS All of those look to provide grip, feedback and fine in wet weather. I've had AD08s before.... nice tyre so long as the roads aren't greasy.

He has my old manifold as it was done on an exchange basis. I run a HFC front pipe to keep road legal. Mine was properly done, cat cut out and straight pipe welded in place. After running mine for a while, I bet the 335 Sprintex will be a complete handful on anything other than dry roads. I personally think the 210+ is the way forward without the need to take an engine apart.

Doubt the charger makes much difference TBH. Certainly didn't make mine any louder and I even took a cat out the system at the same time. Nice looking system BTW. The Legamax is definitely one of those that I prefer due to it's nice tone but not being loud.

Any chance I can do the same? Lost a little during the charger install and yet to buy a bottle.

Do you mean on the top left? Are you replacing with non-OEM pads? Its usually just to help position and remove them and not all aftermarket items have it.

I thought there had been a gentleman's agreement to let bygones be bygones? Why people are checking who owns the Owners Club and then bother to post under an alter pseudonym to create a fuss is childish!! It doesn't affect you anyway, so why care? Just FYI, no-one knows what's gone on except Dan and there is still an open post on the forum to explain. We just deleted Alec's post. Apologies for the post, but FFS just let it go!! It ain't your issue....

Manual specs 0W20 fully synth as standard.

Which was clearly designed to shit stir..... I don't come on here to do that, neither do any of the other mods. Even this thread was started with the intention of just saying "leave it out."

I'd imagine that's almost impossible since I've heard the pearl white is actually 3 layers of different colours. Quite hard to do that in a bottle of paint

Nothing would have had to have been said until a 3rd party found it necessary to make it public. The posts were hidden as to not create a lot of questions that we and, at that point, even Dan, couldn't answer. What good was a bunch of speculation? As said, the NDA is no longer in force if the new owners have already allowed it to go public so I/we have done nothing wrong. Dan will be making an announcement later today for those interested, the club info thread will then be opened back up for discussion. Barely any posts get locked and as above you can see there was a reason this time. Political forum controversy isn't what these forums are for, it's about the cars and the owners. Creating threads like that wasn't really of benefit to anyone, especially when none of the main users will be affected by the change. I bet the majority don't even know/care who Dan is/was.

Apologies for tarring people with one brush..... not that it ever happens the other way round mind