Kodename47

It's easy enough to replace, they come as one with the glass. Mine "exploded" on the motorway and I got a 2nd hand replacement and did it on my drive. From memory a little bit of a pain but not difficult at all.

So it's going to be £30k then as I bet we'll only get the "Premium" version here. All in, I guess not bad and in line with expectations.

Really? I loved the GT but the engine was pretty much the thing I disliked the most; not particularly characterful in sound and powerband was meh. I had come from a near enough 9k rpm Honda though where the engine was the real heart of that car.

I meant changed the resistor in the OEM relay, I did this twice as I first put LEDs in the OEM front and rear lights, and then swapped to VLAND rears, which needed to change the resistors to work at all. Means you get the better OEM flash pattern. All the ones on eBay are the same, you might find the Valenti, TapTurn or other more expensive ones don't do this. https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114284 The random activity will be down to the system voltage and resistance. Possibly if the alternator is providing more than 12v and whether the LED resistance changes as they heat up under use. It must be right on a threshold.

The side indicators are low wattage so have very little impact on hyperflash - I'm not even sure if they are on the detector circuit. So you're on the OEM flasher relay? If so, this has a resistor that determines the resistance that causes hyperflash. Some of the aftermarket flasher relays have a longer 1st flash, that really annoyed me, so I changed the relay. By doing this, I learnt a few things. As LEDs draw less current, you will get hyperflash as the comparison of the resistance vs the relay means that it picks up what it thinks is a failed bulb and hyperflashes. I also found that when one of my lights failed, verified as a short in the unit, that side would not function at all as I guess the resistance was so low that it couldn't function. I think that by removing the rear lights, this is also what you're simulating. Even hazards wouldn't work. An aftermarket LED flasher will lose blown bulb detection as it just outputs a signal no matter what but should work without issue

The pearl white is a multi stage paint. It's done in multiple layers, even body shops find it hard to match. I doubt that there is a single pot of paint that will match, it's probably just the base white.

It depends on how it's setup

As per, 13.5 and 12.5 have both been mentioned from "official" data. The fact that the stroke is the same so peak power is relatively in the same rev band would suggest that if they did do a 13.5:1 comp ratio they will have held back performance. It will also have an updated version of the D4S so that would help countenance any increase (if any) in CR. This is also not taking into account that static CR is not a great marker when you have AVCS that gives you a more dynamic CR.

I doubt it is higher given that there is less bhp per litre than the FA20. Seen a couple of figures banded about, but I reckon there will be little difference to the 12.5:1.

Lots of wishful thinking here. No he's not been involved AFAIK due to the Supra development - remember this has been going on for some time on the GR86. No chance of the 400Z making it to Europe - they aren't interested as it's not a key market so won't make it Euro compliant. The B48 Supra is as it's the BMW engine that's in everything. Also why you won't see a manual Supra - BMW don't mate a manual to anything other than a B48 and this is true in the Z4. I can't see a manual B58 at any point if the parent company don't and so the same will ring true if the GRMN-ish version arrives, possibly with the S58. I agree that I think the styling of the new car is very generic - I see the rear has Vauxhall look, but I think it's more wannabe NSX. It should be a better all round car and if the block is similar to the FA20 then you may find many of the SC and TC kits will work with little or no modification.

If I can convince the wife that I need a new car, I'd be up for this.....

If you're able to switch maps then it's no change in the map. If they disconnected the battery it would have reset the ECU so lost the fuel trims and pedal/throttle learning. You can reset the latter by turning the ignition on without the engine running and press the pedal a few times and then let it idle for about a min. Not sure why you'd need to disconnect the battery though. Other than that, maybe a MAF sensor issue or an intake leak from changing the filter?

For sale is my grey MY12 Supercharged GT86 – 40k miles. The Sprintex is a positive displacement twin-screw supercharger that brings a heap of midrange torque that gives the car the feeling of a larger engine and no torque dip as well as some extra noise character as it creates a lovely whine as the boost increases. The car was last dyno’d at 240bhp and 195lb.ft at the hubs on a Dynapack dyno (circa. 280-290bhp / 205 lb.ft), which is roughly +80bhp / +55 lb.ft over a stock car. Notably this has been further tuned with the intake and exhaust since this was done so those may be a little conservative. Dyno sheet at the bottom. The EcuTek tune on the car will be configurable to the buyers preference as well. The exhaust system has been chosen to ensure that it has more character and volume than stock but does a job similar to the Q300 in that it keeps the volume down under normal day to day driving. Car has been looked after by Abbey Motorsport and serviced with all receipts. Private plate will be removed before sale. I’m putting the car up at £13,750 O.N.O and all OEM parts that I've kept are available to go with the car, but I will consider removing any of the mods marked with an asterix to put back to N/A and lower the price accordingly. With all parts removed it’s up for £11,750 O.N.O . Reg: September 2012 Mileage: 40,400 Gearbox: Manual 1 Owner from new Cloth seats MOT until September 2021 FSH - Year 8 service carried out Oct 2020 plus new serpentine belt and oil in the supercharger Spark plugs and clutch replaced Nov 2020 4 new Goodyear Eagle Asymmetric 5s fitted early 2020 - covered about 1000 miles Reversing camera fitted All receipts and documents available No outstanding recalls Location: Kent / East Sussex Performance - Sprintex Supercharger Intercooled System with 70mm Raceseng Pulley* - Tuned using EcuTek (Running the most current compatible Cal-ID and RaceROM Version) - Berk High Flow Cat* - Cobra Overpipe* - Q300 Style Exhaust - Airaid Intake* - Decatted OEM Manifold - Cosworth Low Temp Thermostat - Mishimoto Baffled Oil Catch Can x2* Cosmetic - Interior - Alcantara Binnacle Cover by AJ124 - Brushed Metal Effect Wrapped Dash Parts - OEM Black Interior Parts (TCS / VSC Buttons, Steering Wheel) - P3 Gauge with Oil Pressure Upgrade* Cosmetic - Exterior - Subaru Auto-Fold Wing Mirror Module - De-badged with Black Toyota Emblems - Carbon Fibre Rear Diffuser - Carbon Fiber Rear Spats - VLAND V2 Sequential Rear Lights - LED Indicators, Reverse & Front Fogs Lights - LED Smoked Side Indictors - Tarmac Sportz Bonnet Dampers Suspension, Chassis & Brakes - Litchfield Springs - Whiteline Positive Shift Bush - SuperPro Front Camber Bolts - Abbey Motorsport Geo Setup - Porsche GT3 Brake Ducts My car blog is here so you can check out the history and progress of the car with more pics etc. 70mm Pulley (fitted) vs Standard 75mm Sprintex Pulley (Stock Dyno = 166bhp / 140 lb.ft)

Sold - May the new owner enjoy as many miles as I have!

The clip is one of the expanding type so if you can get a set of pliers on the opposite site then it'll come out quite easy.

Just reach up with your hand and pull it. Don't even need to remove any panels if you're happy laying face up in the footwell. You just need a light.

Have you watched (or listened) to that particular podcast with Iain? It's a good 'un.

Have you seen how much some are up for sale for?.... https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/toyota/gr-yaris

Yes, it's still available

Bumpity Bump

Non-insulated manifold running near the sump?

@Joolz it'll be between the latter 2, coming from the 86 I felt the Supra was a bit sterile - It's quick, no doubt, but it's a much more removed driving experience, you'll hit your head on the door opening until you get used to it (probably not an issue if you're shorter than 5'10) and the feeling of the car (seating position etc) isn't as nice. Perhaps the seating position of the Yaris will also be interesting as a comparison, but at least that is a taller car so maybe you expect it.

@Jay Bamrah just to close the loop on the top thread, the EcuTek packages are as follows: ECU License: Usually around £250, this is to allow the ECU to take an EcuTek ROM. The ECU only needs this the 1st time it's flashed, so there may be 2nd hand cars that have this already. Programming Kit (or the BT EVI Kit) with Dongle: The Dongle is the part that allows use of the ProECU software on your PC/Laptop. This is used to flash and log files to the ECU. You do not need this if you're getting tuned by someone else. Needed if you're remote mapping or logging. Can be used to make basic maps for your car and can be used to flash OTS maps if you want. The cable or BT EVI is just the device to connect laptop to the OBD port. RaceROM Upgrade: This is basically a Tuner License lite. It's applied to the dongle and is there to give you greater access to maps, including the custom and RaceROM maps, for self tuning. So this allows you to create better maps, but makes zero difference if you are flashng someone else's maps. https://www.ecutek.com/Products/Retail/ProECU-Programming-Kit/Features/ProECU-BRZ

Well you certainly can't claim for faulty springs or dampers....

What is the advantage of Waze over Google Maps these days? Just mobile cameras?