Willson777

For Sale: Toyota GT86 Aero (2015) – GK65 OZO £9,999 Mileage: 110,000 miles MOT: Valid until end of August 2025 Location: Essex Full Service History Tuning Developments NA Tuning Package: K&N Drop-In Air Filter Upgraded Overpipe & Exhaust Headers (Unequal length for the signature boxer rumble) ECU Remap with ECUtek 4 Selectable RaceROM Maps via Cruise Control Stalk: Launch Control Flat Foot Shift Auto-blip on Downshift Valet Mode Performance Gains: Smoother torque curve in the 3000-5000 RPM range (no torque dip) and increased BHP Additional Modifications: Tuning Developments Super Resonated CAT-Back Exhaust with slanted tips Valenti V2 Sequential Smoked Tail-lights MTEC Shifter Springs and Positive Shift Bush for a shorter, sportier gear shift Pioneer SPH-DA160DAB Head Unit with Apple CarPlay & Android Auto (currently intermittent) Focal IS TOY 165 Speaker Upgrade Carbon Pack - Factory Option Recent Maintenance: Alloys fully refurbed and looking brand new (October 2024) Tyres replaced (June 2024) Front discs and pads changed (November 2023) Rear discs and pads changed (August 2024) Exhaust Note: In February 2020, a circular crack was found and welded in part of the exhaust. Recently, over the last 6 months, a similar ‘tinny’ exhaust sound around 3500 RPM suggests the crack may have reappeared. The car is still fully driveable, and the sound is subtle unless you're aware of it. A photo of the original crack is available on request. I’ve opted not to fix this yet, as potential buyers may prefer to upgrade or change the exhaust themselves. Additional Notes: 110,000-mile service is due, but not yet performed, as the vehicle was serviced just a few months ago. Issues: Left side folding mirror inoperable Header unit does not always initialise (works about 25% of start-ups), unfortunately out of warranty. Small dent in bonnet and passenger door Some paint chips in line with the age of the vehicle, 2 deeper ones, photos also available. A well-cared-for, Essex-based GT86 with great performance upgrades and recent work. This car hasn't been pushed very often at all and has been my daily for the last 6/7 years or so, very reliable and has rarely given me any issues at all. The Vehicle will come with the original exhaust headers and overpipe (not fitted) should reversion be desired in the future. Will certainly be missed.

Ive experienced Martins ‘big rig’, and it is truly amazing sound, could sit in that room every night getting comfortably numb to music! So today they did seem a bit better, i dont know if this is a break in period, or because i had upped the volume and maybe that had ‘loosened’ them up somehow… Ive looked at the various settings / EQ etc in the headunit and tried various combinations to little avail. As mentioned though they were sounding better now so im gonna keep an ear on it!

Would this affect the door speakers though? As when the door speakers weren't working, the tweeters were fine. Maybe I'll also wrap the connections in some electrical tape

So after upgrading my head-unit to a Pioneer 160DAB (initially for Apple Carplay etc - not specifically for audio reasons), I thought I would tackle the speakers and saw on the forums that the TOY 165 by FOCAL were considered a decent bang-for-buck, plug and play replacement without too much faffing about. I have had them in for a couple of days now and can say I'm not very impressed. The tweeters are better mind you, but the door speakers really don't have much volume to them for some reason? I was beginning to think I may have not wired them properly but it's literally just the one connector (pushed all the way in), and the tweeters I assume are wired as picture below. I took a 10 min drive the other day and realised that I'm pretty sure there wasn't any sound even coming out of the door speakers (or it was too low, I couldn't feel any vibration with my hand either) - but then on the way back, they seemed to be playing louder. Is there something I've missed with these speakers, as the stock door speakers seem to be better so far, imo. Also I have heard about the 'running in' period for speakers, although there is also consideration that this is a myth if you look online? What are everyone's opinions?

Perfect I'll give it a shot - Do you know if I will be able to use apple car play utilising the USB on the center console, or do I need to run the 'apple car play' usb cable by itself into the glovebox?

Those are the only 3 that I'll need to get it working? Seems far too straightforward haha

HI everyone, Been a while since I've done any DIY to my car and I've wanted to replace the head unit for a while now. Not necessarily for EQ purposes but primarily for Apple Car Play connectivity. So I took the current touch and go out and was greeted with the following photos below. Most tutorials online / youtube seem to be for BRZ etc which often have slightly different radios or wiring around the back. Anyway - if anyone can help me with what's going to be necessary to keep/remove as I am certainly an amateur with this. I have labelled up the photos and I did manage to find a manual from a Yaris which matches the same model number of the touch & go system I have: A1/A2 - No idea - Bridges itself to the unit. B/C - 28/16 pin connectors, but my 16 pin one literally only utilises one wire? D/X/Q - All seem to be connected only to the unit as well (according to the manual, can't quite tell from my photos) Z/Y - 10/6 pin - Any idea? R - USB (Assume this connects to the USB output at the bottom of the center console then) S - Bluetooth Mic? So I was looking at the 'Pioneer SPH-DA160DAB Car Stereo' but I haven't done much in terms of research yet and am open to suggestions. Has anyone changed the head-unit and now how much of these wires are actually necessary. The connections on the back of the DA160 seem far fewer. Would I be able to keep functionality of the Bluetooth MIC system? I'm also not bothered about rear parking camera connectivity Obviously happy to get adapters etc and depending on the system, I don't mind a faceplate / surround too much. Oh, and if anyone knows what the little connector hanging around at the back labelled '?2' is - it wasn't connected when I took the unit out. Thanks

Hi Mike, I can't recall any particular event that stands out and the car hasn't been lowered in any way. The noise gradually came on over a couple of weeks then seemed to maintain a consistent maximum level. You make a valid point though and considering the state of the roads these days it could have well been weakened by some sort of pot-hole impact or other. I'll monitor it for now and see how we get on.

Hi Guys, So I've finally pulled my finger out and sorted out the original problem I had in this thread: Quick recap: I have the NA pack from TD with the Super-res exhaust. After about 9 months I started hearing this horrible high pitched tapping sound, only when accelerating anywhere above 3200 rpm with a warmed up exhaust. I thought originally that it was striking part of the chassis structure or heat shield... After going to a couple of local mechanics who weren't particularly helpful, I did a quick forum search here and saw that @MartinT has previously mentioned a similar problem in his blog. Martin was very helpful as he lives not too far from me and he was happy to go for a ride/listen and agreed that it was in fact the same sound that he had previously encountered. I took my car down to @Mark@Abbey M/S (Abbey Motorsport) the next day, who were very accommodating. They couldn't see any cracks or problems with the exhaust on a visual inspection initially, and even putting the engine under-load using the brakes on the rolling road, they couldn't replicate the noise I was hearing. I took them out for a drive and managed to get the noise to appear (and now that the exhaust was nice and hot) it was also apparent when revving in idle too. Back on the lift for inspection and they found the crack had now opened up, which went about 3/4 of the way around the super-resonator at the engine end (picture attached). After a quick weld and fairly nominal fee, it was all sorted and I am back to enjoying the car properly again! Now that it is fixed, I can tell that the crack was not only causing the tap but had also changed the exhaust note subtley and it sounds a-lot better now it is fixed, very pleased. To be fair to @Mike@TD.co.uk he was more than happy to have a look at the exhaust when I originally emailed him a good 6 months ago, but due to geography it wasn't going to be practical to get it over to him, and I am yet to speak with Mike directly following the fix. Just thought I would share my story as this is what the forums is for! If it wasn't for the forum then I wouldn't have seen Martins blog post and it could've made the road to repair a lot more tedious and drawn out.

Hi Twigman, I don't think it is gear related at all but I could well be wrong

Thanks Sam, I've just tried playing with it a bit and had some limited success. I moved the exhaust and rubber guides as far right as I could, took it on a test drive and i got through the whole rev range in a couple of gears without any of the tin-can sound at all, but a couple of minutes later it was back. So I think the integrity of the exhaust is fine, and it is rattling against something when under load. It is right up against the heat-shield (touching it), is this normal? The heat shield doesn't seem to be lose. My other thought is that the exhaust passes very close to this part of the chassis (image attached/below), the photo is looking towards front of the car. So if the exhaust is off to the left and then vibrating under acceleration then i may well be hearing it collide with the chassis.

Hi everyone, About a year ago I had the NA Tuning Package fitted with Tuning Developments and also took their Super-Resonated catback exhaust. All was very well for the last 10k miles which I have done since then, however over the last 1k, I have been getting a tin-can rattle under acceleration, just past 3000rpm to redline. (I am driving very conservatively since , below 3000rpm, to prevent any further potential damage.) The rattle occurs under heavy or light acceleration but not when revving in idle. Also occurs whether hot or cold. With the windows down it sounds like it's coming from the rear-right section of the exhaust but with window up it sounds more forwards towards the engine bay. The exhaust also keeps slipping left off-centre which may or may not be related, I can easily re-position on the 4 rubber guide hooks, but then after a couple of drives it has vibrated back to the left of the valance. As far as I can see, the rear of the exhaust looks OK, but I can't really get under the car to look properly at the rest of the mid section and nuts/bolts etc there. I guess I could lift one corner using the wheel jack, to try and get a better look, but I don't know how safe this is? I did e-mail Mike who is more than happy to take a look at the car for me, however I'm about 4 hours drive away unfortunately. I also have my MOT on Friday and it is due by end of month, so I'm considering taking it to somewhere like kwik-fit or the likes to be looked at properly. Any recommendations much appreciated!

Haven’t had any luck yet but potentially store it or sell it, I haven’t thought too much about it yet. Are you looking for one?

I don’t know how rare these are but I’m looking to get a stock pearl white bootlid to replace my aero boot/spoiler. For the original model year not the facelift, although I guess there may not be any difference dimension-wise? Am I best getting one new through the dealer in this case?

Hi everyone, I’m getting squeaking from what I assume is my brakes. Its in sync with wheel rotation and disappears turning left but not right. I’ve read it could be a bent brake wear indicator? I had EBC yellowstuff pads and brand new OEM discs fitted about 2 months ago and have only done about 1000 miles (no tracking or anything heavy at all) so they shouldn’t be worn. any ideas on fixing this? Thanks