Mike

I'd give them a call / email before ordering tbh. They're up and running I think but don't seem to be really advertising it for some reason...

Think the car as standard is 5mm higher in the rear

How many miles are on it? As Will says, I wouldn't be concerned about it, unless it's been sat in a garage for 9 years they'll have gone by now.

I paid £25ish to get 4 of them imported, cheaper than 2 from a dealer at the above prices

If there's enough left to stick them to, they'll be fine. Just get some decent glue

You can get the originals from https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/?id=59148 - I've got 4 somewhere...

There's 3 people waiting on stuff in this thread, only one of which isn't currently getting a reply. Hardly worth replying to tbh

Any ideas where they're moving to?

If it's for a head unit just ground it

I've had a couple of minor issues with TD (bolts came loose on the NA kit at a sprint round, they fixed it and altered how they fit the kits since then) and part of the airbox melted but not sure on the fault as we removed it at the sprint (Mike offered to replace it). Other than that, they've serviced mine and done work on it and never had an issue with the service.

I got 40k out of my rears, and that was no pad left

It's only the rods that go because they're the weakest part, make them stronger and something else will go

The cult 86 group is a little odd because they post it on the FB 86 groups... seems kinda stupid posting in a group asking people to join your group on the same subject

I think the disc noise is for the floating option, where there's a tiny bit of play and you only get a noise when you brake the first time in whichever direction as the discs shift slightly. The pads / backing plates is what I'm certain I get as it makes sense its only in reverse as the pads bite, get lifted by the disc. No noise going forward as the pads bite and they've got nowhere to go downwards as they're already resting on the caliper

My theory on the noise is either the 2 piece discs shifting slightly - for those where it happens either direction and only once. Or the pads lifting up slightly and clunking in the caliper when braking in reverse which is what I have.

@Steeps you can have go now...

There isn't any detail in Mark's reply tbh. It's nothing different to previously stated that it's been updated. It's not for Mark to say though really unless he's pushing the kits, it's on HKS to tell people why they should trust the updated one

The certificate is fine, looks the same one for with/without the www, so unless you're using an ancient version of firefox that doesn't have the letsencrypt CA then there's no reason for it not to work, unless as above, there's a plugin doing something...

This. Mark has said there was an issue with the kits. I disagree with his "I sell it and am well known so it's good" stance because it means nothing at all and is a bit of an ego flex. Mark isn't responsible for the quality of the HKS SC kits, he is responsible if he kept selling/pushing them after knowing of any design flaw with them (which I don't think he did). If there was a design flaw, ThatGuyThere is fully correct in saying HKS should have done something for existing customers and not just left them with a crap product. The busy excuse doesn't wash either, Mark can find a dyno image but not give a brief explanation why the newer HKS kit is all good?

Works for me? Granted it redirects to with the www but that's a good thing... Whitelisting should still override spam rules otherwise its pointless - it works me with google apps with the domain whitelisted. SPF is setup but that doesn't really do a lot these days. The main issue is sending email directly from a linode box rather than sending via something like sendgrid or even amazon's ses which will take care of delivery for you

They'll go rusty and it'll be a pain in the arse to change wheels as the adaptor they come with will stick on the nuts

tpi or rays get recommended, none will look good after 6 months though...

I just routed my camera through one of the number plate light holes. They're tucked under the boot lid garnish and aren't sealed that well anyway so a thin cable doesn't make the seal any worse. Slight compromise on mine was sticking the camera itself below the boot switch. You can still just about use it but I tend to use the key to open the boot so doesn't bother me. Only semi permanent change was splicing to the reverse signal for power, grounded with one of the rear light nuts

pretty sure @Mike@TD.co.uk told me in the past he'd seen some cossie pads with yellow stuff branding underneath, like they'd just stuck stickers on top...

Did you go for the floating disc option? They can clunk when you brake the first time in either direction, like the discs are shifting slightly. I get a clunk pretty much every time i brake when reversing. Doesn't seem to be an issue though...