Mike

Everytime you brake in reverse or just the first time?

I had the NA kit with a non-res miltek (probably cracked) that got the attention of the neighbours, it could set car alarms off in multi storey car parks. I got the TD super res fitted, quieter all round but still sounds good. Next time I set off for work after getting it fitted, it set next doors car alarm off... 😁

Can you inspect it without taking the sump off? If not, it turns a service into a 2 day job...

£54 sounds about right for japan price + VAT, think it's about what I paid in total after importing mine Getting the relay out, it definitely doesn't just pull out, I ended up with a thin screwdriver wedged in to sort the clip out and pull out...

https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/43911 for the aero fins, with vat + customs on top, think it worked out at £220 instead of the £265 in the UK

You don't get stung by customs unless they over charge you which is very rare. I've ordered bits from Japan before - the Valenti indicator relay and the TRD aero fins, even with VAT + customs charges they were cheaper than any UK supplier, and in the case of the indicator relay, probably got it earlier than I would have if I ordered it from the only UK supplier If you're importing, it'll take longer and you run the risk of it being a nightmare to send back if there's an issue. I wouldn't do big bulky items like wheels/tyres/suspension from outside the UK for that reason. Not sure if the vlands are any cheaper in the US, they're pretty cheap direct. US prices will be without sales tax too as well.

I left my car last winter for ~2 months and the brakes didn't stick at all... They have stuck previously and held the car on a sloped drive way. Hopefully this is small enough that you don't really read it and only the sentence above and makes you get the BBK!

I've got a HEL kit still in a box somewhere for the reason Maurice mentions. Not sure if thinner pipe work would work fine though. It might even be possible to use the HKS sandwich plate with the rest of the HEL kit, I know I looked at Maurice's at one of the sprints but not in detail. The thermostat will always be open slightly to avoid having cold oil mixing with hot engine/oil. While you're right in it doesn't need to be 100c to burn any water off, I'd prefer it to boil off than evaporate away! I've also got a forester cooler (one that uses the coolant to cool the oil a bit) somewhere in another box, no reason other than I buy things without thinking at times and haven't got round to getting it fitted Doesn't provide the best cooling compared to one that'll use air, but it doesn't have the downsides of over cooling in the winter months.

Mine are fastened to the suspension at the bottom.

I wired the parking brake to the ground, don't think it does anything for my head unit, but if you're not stupid, it makes no difference if the head unit thinks you're always stopped. Think pin 2 on the 28pin is correct for reverse, pink one? If you've got a multimeter just check the pin for 12v in/out of reverse to confirm.

Is it just those 2 you need (reverse signal and parking brake signal?)

I ordered one in June, got dispatched the same day and I had it next day.

Although our pumps have E5 labels on them, our Synergy Supreme+ 99 is actually ethanol free (except, due to technical supply reasons, in Devon, Cornwall, the Teesside area, Scotland and NW England). Doesn't say how much ethanol or the exact areas / stations that are included from what I can find...

I got one of https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/varta-blue-014-car-battery-4-year-guarantee-444770142 started up ok after not moving for 3 weeks the other day. Long term low usage either trickle charger (solar one isn't good enough imo) or potentially an AGM battery as you say and potentially having to charge it if the car has sat for too long

I think it's a standard procedure wherever the sealant is involved. Same goes for resealing the diff, overnight for drying. I *think* the idea is to leave it without oil too, presumably until it's fully cured there's potential for it to mix with the oil? Probably shouldn't happen but belt & braces for warranty purposes...

The official sealant is a lot more than £4 though, I'm sure its like £80

Fitting the cossie baffle plate isn't that high really. From what I can remember, a large chunk (almost half?) is down to the sealant being expensive - then a couple hours of labour for removal, putting the plate in and applying the sealant. Car then stays overnight for it to cure but obviously you're not paying for that time. I had other things done at the time but I'm sure it was around a similar price you've been quoted.

Did ats refuse to fit them? They fitted 215s on my 8" wide wheels without issue.

Yea, I've figured it's not in properly. Getting it in properly isn't the easiest though with the dash not being rigid. Tape is fine for now as I need to move the gauge elsewhere otherwise it's mostly useless with it getting too hot.

mine doesn't clip in that well, had to tape it down at Croft at the weekend because it wouldn't stay in and was rattling around half hanging out!

Are you keeping the sard extension brackets or willing to sell? Think I need a set!

I've got the GPS unit stuck to the top of the head unit, works mostly fine. It did have a period of misreading the speed but not sure if that was just poor signal as it rarely happens. Apparently the stock GPS unit for the satnav is on top of the head unit so shouldn't be an issue. The only issue with it stuck on top of the head unit means I need to take the vent out above the head unit, then unstick the GPS unit before removing the head unit. Not something you need to do often though...

Rear driver unit - mine is placed passenger side in the rear quarter. There'll be an easy tap in point there as the cabling for the lights/boot run down that side. You then just route the cable to the drivers side motor along the back of the rear seats and back to the motor. Front driver unit - mine is placed behind/above the glove box, again, plenty of places you could tap into because of the stereo wiring etc. Controller is generally placed over the passenger air bag light below the stereo so you can pick up a power source from the stereo again. Earthing points - plenty behind the stereo, just pop an eye connector on and re-use an existing bolt. For the rear you can use one of the light nuts, just file some paint off so you get a proper contact to the body panel. Same as Lauren though, RRG in Macc fitted mine as I didn't fancy working out how to route all the cabling at the time I fitted but I'd probably do it myself now as it's not a difficult job really. When you do the motors, just remember they are different thread sizes front/rear... don't be an idiot and keep trying the wrong size like I did

Best place to be...

If you're not sure it worked before, I'd drop the headlining (just do the 3 push clips) and disconnect the aerial base, remove the head unit and check for continuity with a multi meter. You could also check for a voltage on the wire providing power to the aerial. If the wire is good then you're probably looking at the aerial base and it's either toast or just needs drying