Mike

Got mine changed under warranty after 4 years when it failed

If moving the rings changes the height differently between front and rear, you'll need to adjust them by different amounts to get 10mm ride height change. Just measure the current height for each corner before you start and then you'll know if you've ended up with the right adjustment. Just remember the car may need time to settle fully so don't just lower and measure.

10mm on the rings though? I thought changing 10mm on the rings wasn't going to raise the car 10mm, it'll be more. And if the ratio is different front to rear, he'll need to adjust by different amounts.

Where abouts are the connectors? Can see what state mine are in if possible. Out of the sprinters I've had the TD manifold on the longest afaik...

https://www.part-box.com/euro-winker-relay-for-toyota-gt86-subaru-brz-er-01

Only thing I'd buy isn't discounted lol

I've seen plenty of cleaning products say to just use more product if it dries as it's the best thing to "wet" it again and then you can easily wash it off. Might be worth a try? Anything you do try though, I'd try somewhere less obvious as a small test patch, if it gets the marks off, do the rest of the car, if not, you've not really lost much.

Removing the rubber strip at the back should be fine, I've been told it's a good way to help temps on track as it frees air trapped in the bonnet so gets more airflow. I don't think you need to worry about temps on a daily drive tbh...

Ignoring first year, car tax isn't done on emissions really. It's 1 of 3 amounts - £0 for electric, £135 for hybrid, £145 for petrol/diesel. Then you have a 5 year extra charge of £320/year for cars that have a list price of £40k or above. So an electric car over £40k would be £320/year for 5 years then free.

Tax is £135/year coz of the newish flat rate system.

Even on cruise I'm pretty sure we only see low 50s on motorway... think I'll take it back then

Motorway is low 50s

Does the collision protection system actually brake? I've had it flash up "BRAKE" in a big red box at me a number of times and it's done nothing at all - which is a good thing because there was no need to brake! The throttle response is an odd one for me, it's like it has steps in it where it'll accelerate like an old person, accelerate like a normal person and then actually go at a decent rate. You can feel where the steps in how far the throttle pedal is pressed down as to what sort of acceleration you'll get from it. It's something you get used to though. Same goes for using it in "manual" mode - it feels like it still drops a "gear" when you floor it... I'm glad it's got a digital readout for the speedo though... with it happily sitting in EV mode at almost motorway speeds, you can forget what speed you're doing with it being so quiet and a number is a lot easy to see at a glance!

Starting to look at a BBK again and I know the Reyland kit is the popular option but I've also been looking at the godspeed kits and the k-sport option. I'm sure someone had a spreadsheet of how different kits affected the brake bias but I can't find that anymore! Options I'm looking at: http://www.reyland.co.uk/subaru-impreza - the standard kit with reyland discs https://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/311-big-brake-kits- - either of the kits - although the 6 pot may be overkill? http://www.tuningdevelopments.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=502_625_628&products_id=1387 What are people's opinions on the k-sport or either of the godspeed kits? Would be looking for advice mainly on how they change brake bias and pad choice availability.

What are the rear suspension covers?

Air con generally should be around / slightly below 5c if you shove a thermometer in the vents

Bolted to the car body right? I believe one of the bolts that comes with the harness works with a spacer so you don't need to bend it.

Pretty sure mine slides back too. If you bend the seat back a little it should lock in place without losing any space behind it. Rubbers being pulled up with the windows was/is a warranty issue, they're probably not that expensive and pretty easy to do if you want to sort them yourself now it's out of warranty. I'd do mine again if they started pulling again...

You can still find out the issue and/or then find out the cost to fix. It could be cheap... Try contacting breakers and see if any have the locking mechanism and switch it over? No idea if there's anything in the locking mechanism that's tied to the car though...

Someone told me they fitted a set of cosworth pads and you could see the ebc stickers underneath the cosworth ones. Cosworth quality isn't all that anymore I don't think. Their baffle plates haven't been flawless and the air filters I got recently looked like they were in knockoff boxes tbh

TD will do the slash cut tips - same as the milltek

You shouldn't need to do anything when fitting them. Are you sure you didn't knock the sensor when fitting?

Wrong pitch I believe, should be 1.25, unless you're going to replace all of them and your nuts...

At least you knew about it before hand, I found out on the day! The cruise & lane assist is what made it absolutely boring to "drive" for me.

Had a look at this last night... It feels pretty flimsy and easy to pull to where it looks like it should be but just snaps back to the wrong position again. Nothing else looks out of place and identical to the other side other than where it meets the parcel shelf. There's a white bit of metal that looks like it should hold it in place (you can see it in the OP's pic) but even putting it over that doesn't fix it properly. Think I'll leave it