Mike

Had a quick chat with @Lauren at the sprint and have decided to just use the bolt that the reel is connected to as that's what Lauren's done and if the rear reel is connected to it, it must be strong enough (seems pretty well bolted in to the car anyway!). Fit the rear piece last night and you can do it without taking any trim off really. Just lower the rear seat back, remove the 2 pop clips holding the boot liner in at the side and you can get access to the bolt with an extension. A normal socket set should be strong enough to get the nut off.

Had the reyland kit (reyland curved groove discs) fitted last week. Produces a fair amount of brake dust but nothing a half decent wheel cleaner can't shift (and then deposit on to the road... oops) but other than that, the feel is great and didn't have any issues at the sprint at the weekend (although hardly the heaviest on brakes!) One issue I sort of have is when applying the brakes in reverse, there's a clunk when the pedal is pressed. Has anyone else experienced it? It only does it when the wheels are going backwards (jacked it up and span the wheels and it'll still do it). Only possibilities I can think of is the pads having some movement (although they seem solid), the discs having some play around the studs - they do with the wheel off but would have thought the wheel + nuts would clamp it on tight enough so there's no movement. The only thing I could find loose was the brake line on the drivers side where the braided line connects to the main line. The clip is on properly but it's like the groove is too high on the braided line so the clip is just keeping it in the general area and not tight like the passenger side. Thoughts anyone?

You make a valid point! Will just grab a blank to put in the buckle then...

I'm guessing the stock belt doesn't flap around too much if left loose then?

Sounds like a solution to bending it then. Will make a decision when I do it. As long as the plastic trim isn't causing a bend in the strap, think it'll be bolting to the car.

I get that, but that bolt is what the belt reel is attached to so surely must be strong enough?

Any specific reason why you wouldn't use it?

I might end up doing that as I don't know if the harness will foul the seat belt or not (if a spacer won't fit either) but using that bolt seems a cleaner install as there's no bending or twisting of the harness. Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything as it must be strong enough as the load from the seat belt will go through the bracket before the car itself. Your pics are the only ones available of the actual mounting points, other than a number of Germans who have used the top isofix point which isn't strong enough.

Finally getting round to installing my harness and not overly comfortable with bending the metal connecting the rear strap to the pillar. Is there a reason not to bolt it in between the actual seat belt reel and the bracket (using bolt in image below)? Seems a better place as its directly out towards the front seat then rather than coming down and being held in a bit by some plastic??

Japan parts do them, but they're similar price to the subaru link that @BRZ-123 gave. And then you'll have to pay VAT + duty on them so it makes sense to just get them from subaru. Unless you find someone selling them 2nd hand...

I've got 1 more bit to get fitted then I'll add mine

Does this count?

Setting yourself as the target this year? Personal preference but think the flag would look better on a blue car. I'm guessing you wanted this for round 1 but ran out of time?

I didn't use anything on the doors. Did run my hand over them as they looked dirty but hand was clean and dry. Time will tell!

The left most ones are the locking ones afaik - they're 7 sided.

@will300 perfect post, thank you! Looks like the godspeed kits are out - the AP kit I did think would be overkill and couldn't find anyone else selling the caliper used as a 330mm kit. Too many unknowns with the brembo kit to fork out £1k for! Think it might well be the reyland kit and let Gary worry about the shims I assume 949racing 6uls (17x8 +40?) you ran had plenty of clearance?

@Lauren brand doesn't really bother me, as long as they're decent. Pad choice with the k-sport is a valid point that I've not checked but it's one of the more expensive options as with DS2500 pads it's not much cheaper than the reyland kit. Although, if I was to go with the reyland kit I'd be tempted with the AP discs to get the curved vanes. Out of interest, how quickly did your reyland kit ship? @Varelco I'd expect the godspeed discs to be straight vaned just like the reyland ones which isn't a deal breaker if it's saving me £500! It all depends on the brake bias of the brembo kit really. The AP calipers will be fine. @VAD17 so, nothing wrong with the k-sport but with the same pads the price difference doesn't justify getting a cheaper brand?

Could you not stick a plate on the back, fill in the hole and sand smooth and then wrap it? Should be cheap and not show the holes?

I had https://www.part-box.com/exedy-stage-1-organic-clutch-toyota-gt86-amp-subaru-brz-tk07h833 put in a little over 20k miles ago coz the bearing on the stock clutch made it sound like a rattle can. Seems fine, dunno if it's worth the price over the standard one though...

Be interesting to see what they're like. I'd do all 4 if I was you, but purely so they're all the same age rather than expecting any of the other 3 to fail as well. There's plenty of spark plugs that have come out after 60k looking perfectly fine.

Did you change all 4 when you replaced your broken one then?

Spark plugs don't need doing until the car has gone 60k... pointless doing them at 38k

With their manifold it is most definitely louder than stock...

If that's a static test, you'll be fine. I was 95db with non-res milltek and the EL manifold. Switched to the super res catback and it's quieter - idles similar to completely stock when warm but when you give it some beans there's still plenty of noise.

I'm hopefully having a look this weekend so will let you know what I find as well