JohnM

There are 2 motors attached to the side of the heater system behind the front dash fascia. If you remove the glove box u can see the bottom motor. Its black with a large white cog on the side. If thats the one u should be able to remove and replace without removing the dashboard. If its the top motor then it is a dash out job. see the attached post to put the system into test mode: Climate control error codes - GT86/BRZ General Chat - Toyota GT86 and Subaru BRZ Drivers Club

Im interested in the trd aero strip please. How much and are you willing to post. Many thanks.

Can these be ordered from a Subaru dealer as Toyota want £16 per clip to order from them. Or is it japanparts and pay more in postage than the clips.

Can I have your postcode please martin and what date are you looking for collection please

It will fit a prefacelift model as I have one fitted on a 2014 GT86

Can I ask what the colour match is like on the the chipex kit please?

Welcome and let the modifying commence 😀 Wheels look nice in the single colour rather than the oem look

Would you mind sharing the cost at all please? I was interested in going with the vortech but the cost of importing it in from the USA was double the cost compaired to the kits available in the UK.

Did you source the vortech yourself or did abbey supply and fit??

Everything in the boot is held in by push clips, so very easy to remove. If u havnt got a spare wheel then the foam sections are also held in with pop clips. remove them and they all just lift out. The rear seats are held in with 1x10mm bolt at the front. Undo the bolt , lift the front of the seat base up whilst pushing down on the back section. You should hear a click when the rear brackets unclip from there mounting points. When you do the rear seats just be careful of the fuel pump wiring underneath the passenger side. Yes stick it directly to bare metal. It took around 1 hr to do the boot, 1/4 panels and under the rear seats when I did my sub install so its not a big job. Its not something you wanna do when the weather is naff though. Defiantly add some to the inside of the doors if you like listening to music, as it does make a difference (also helps if you get rid of the oem speakers, but that's a whole different kettle of fish) You can use anything really, just don't pay over the odds for a name (dynamat springs to mind). I used a brand called silent coat off ebay. Easy to mold and cut to any shape. Do a search for sound deadening on ebay and you are spoilt for choice.

I would factor in sound deadening the boot and under the rear seats if you do decide to go with a rear box delete. Im currently running an Invidia N1 and the drone between 2500 and 5000 revs was bearable but very noticable, so adding the soundproofing softens the resonance. I did try the rear delete before getting the N1 but the drone and added resonance above 3000 revs was too much even for me. It sounded awesome from outside the car but way too much for a daily drive.

Coilovers are defiantly worth it but you dont need to spend thousands. If you are just using the car as a daily then Tein do an Advance Street Z model which can be obtained for just under the £500 mark. They are an entry level coilover that is an upgrade from the oem suspension with the ability to adjust ride height and some very mild damper settings. I have been running them on mine for just over a year now and I am more than happy with the results. I didnt want to go with the lowering spring option and I also couldnt justify the cost of the higher priced coilovers as I would never use all the adjustment features that they come with based on the amount of miles I do per year. Plus I never plan on tracking the car so the Advance Z'S ticked the boxes for me The lip looks the same drop as the maxton lip so if you do lower it, personally you wont be able to drop it more than 20mm otherwise it will catch. Even at a 15mm drop I had issues with steep inclines and some of the more higher of the speed bumps. The HT autos is suppose to be abit more forgiving than the maxton one ,as that one does become brittle over time, which is why when mine eventually broke I swapped it for something that doesnt mount so low under the bumper.

Depends what front lip you have and how low you are looking at going. I had a maxton lip and only dropped 15/20mm and it caught on everything, to the point it eventually broke.

If its the same as the earlier models try numbering the folders before the name and also go into the folder properties, under details and add the same number in the # section. (So 1: Title Name). Do this on your PC and then drop them onto the usb stick. Ive found if you edit them directly onto the usb it doesnt work.

I would cross the N1 off your list if you only want it slightly louder than stock. I'm running one and its plenty loud even with the rest of the system stock. Also if you have the space have a go at fitting it yourself. It only took me just over 1 hr to fit and that was on a driveway.