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Everything posted by JohnM
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Anymore than 1 hrs labour charge then they are looking at the car and rubbing there hands together. Fitted my N1 on my uncles driveway and took 30 minutes. I spent more time trying to align the tips than actually removing and fitting the exhaust.
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Have you noticed any difference switching from v-power to Esso 99 performance wise ?? Since owning the car I have used nothing but V-power but at £1.45 a Ltr at the moment I may look at other options out there.
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If you want a set of coilovers then I can highly recommend these over lowering springs. They are an entry level set but with enough adjustability for daily and fast road driving. TEIN Street Advance Z TUV Certified Coilovers suspension kit - Toyota GT86 Subaru BRZ (part-box.com) If you dont mind 2nd hand you can pick up an Invidia N1 from anywhere between £200 - £350 depending on condition.
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Im after a set of smoked valenti rear lights with the white light bar. Not fussed if they are sequential or not. If anybody has a set then let me know please. Thanks
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MOD's can you lock the thread please as Im no longer looking. Also it might stop people joining just to message me with offers to buy outside the forum.
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Did you tighten the droplinks whilst the car was up in the air or underload with the car back on the ground ?? Also make sure your anti roll bar is central before tightening everything down. I had a clonk when I fitted mine on the passenger side which was driving me nuts and I tried everything, even went through refitting the coilover only to find out I had pulled my roll bar 5mm over to the one side, which caused the droplink to only slightly catch on the lower control arm.
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So when i was under the car attempting to fit the powerflex gearbox bush I noticed that the transmission casing was covered in a green oily gunk residue. Now there is no apparent leaks anywhere under the car or in the engine bay as all the under carriage is pretty clean (apart from the usual dirt) and the exhaust pipes have no signs of the same residue but being as the car was purchased second hand from a main dealer who I have absolutely no confidence in is there anything I should be looking for. Could it also have been from a previous issue that has been fixed but not cleaned up afterwards. Or am i just looking for something that isnt there.
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2012 Pearl White GT86 Turbo 21000 miles
JohnM replied to Captain G's topic in For Sale GT86 / BRZ Cars
Dont suppose you would consider selling the smoked valenti rear lights seperatly at all ??? -
Ive used this one for the stereo but it doesnt have anything for the sat nav connectors. GT86 Stereo Wiring Diagram - Do It Yourself D.I.Y guides - 86Forums.com.au
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There is some slight movement with the clip when it is connected to the radio, so i have added a small piece of 3m tape onto the bottom of the clip and reinstalled. This appears to have removed the movement and is now more secure when clipped in.
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Sam534, Did you have any issues with the iso harness not clipping into the OEM stereo securely? Im having an issue with the smaller of the 2 connectors making a secure connection and staying clipped in??
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Auto finesse total, microfibre cloth and a soft brush. Dodo juice supernatural leather cleaner and sealant for the leather parts.
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Evening everybody. I have just collected my new GT86 and have a query regards to the speaker wiring in the dash. The UK model appears to only have the tweeters fitted and not the 3.5 speakers in the US models even though there is the mounting points for them. Does anybody know if the wiring for these speakers is tucked away somewhere in the dash or would i have to rewire from the head unit if i wanted to fit these speakers. I know i can buy an adaptor to use the existing connector on the stock tweeter but this would mean changing the tweeters, which I dont want to do just yet. Thanks in advance.
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All sorted. No more clunking. Check all your bolts especially on the hub and make sure you have fitted the correct nut onto the 16mm top bolt. My drivers side bolts had become loose causing a bit of play on the hub/strutt. Also even though the nuts look the same, the one for the 16mm bolt has a slightly wider bottom. So the knock wasnt coming from the droplinks at all but just to be on the safe side I reinstalled them using the preload method. Jack up the hub under the brake disc to take off the slack and then reinstall the endlinks. Whole thing took about 1 hr so fingers crossed I wont need the extra expense of the adjustable endlinks.
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Looking through some old threads on FT86club and the pics posted, the corsa c threads look longer than the oem ones. If I remember correctly when I removed the OEM bottom link there was a washer on the opposite side to the bolt. I dont think I reinstalled that washer, so thats the first thing I will check tomorrow. I have just checked the OEM end link and there is indeed a spacer on the end of the thread, Im assuming this is to help the link to sit flush against both the strutt mount and arb. The corsa ones I fitted didnt have this. This may potentially be the issue.
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Nope. Just lay under the car and dremeled the old nut off. Didnt even have to touch the brake setup as this was the first thing I did so everything else was still attached.
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Im redoing mine tomorrow so if i find anything I will let you know. Otherwise I will order some adjustable end links next week.
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Doesnt appear to be any marks on the control arm or the drop link or even the top of the roll bar. Someone has suggested mounting a gopro in the wheel arch to try and record the noise and to confirm it is the droplinks. One easy way would be to disconnect the drop link from the anti roll bar, secure the end link and arb with cable ties and go for a short drive. If no noise then at least you know the issue is with the end links. Just dont go throwing it into corners :~)
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Cheapest ones specifically for the car I have found are the hardrace ones at £75 but they are on a 3/4 week back order. There are some universal ones around for about £40 but Im dubious as to whether they are any good.
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Easiest way is to get it to a garage and get them to do it for you :). I used some ramps that raise the car up just enough to get the jack under the front or just enough room to reach in and tighten them up. I did the jack stands at first and had the same issue. But still really close to the lower arm so I will be changing then to smaller droplinks at some point.
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Top pic were the bottom of the drop link is. Inside of the lower control arm. Or top pic again, were the bend of the anti roll bar is, the curve on the inside of the wheel arch (hope that make sense) Did you reconnect them with the car up on the jacks, or did you put the wheels back on , drop the car then re-attach??
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The drop links are now too long so they are catching either on the inside of the lower control arm or your anti roll is catching on the inner bottom wheel arch.. To be sure, turn the steering wheel full lock and look to see if you can see any fresh scratch marks or dirt rubbed away. Normally try and align the anti roll bar and tighten them whilst the car is loaded but 95% of the time you will need smaller drop links to stop the knocking.
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Probably a long shot but Im after an MXP comp rs exhaust if anybody is selling one please.
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Currently running Hankook v12 evo 2. No complaints so far in wet or dry and they are a massive improvement from the Yoko's i had on previously. Check out www.tyreleader.co.uk as they run offers pretty much every day. Just look under the discount tab at the bottom of the website. I managed to get a set of 4 for £229 delivered so works out at about £57 a tyre.
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Maybe in the market for some coilovers. Just putting the interest out to see if anybody has a set going.