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You’ll need and international drivers permit if you want to hire a car which I’d very much recommend. The stations are easy enough to navigate and always have English translations but most Japanese don’t speak English. You can buy SIM cards with data (some photography chain is where I got mine last time) the. Google maps is brilliant, esp when using pedestrian directions. Having data and a smartphone is all you need really. There is lots of car stuff to do in Tokyo - Toyota, Nismo and others have museums. There’s a cruise type event at Daiko futo (sp?) which is quite famous but you can only enter this in a car bit by foot. The city’s are fine but you should try to get out to see how beautiful the countryside is. A visit to Fuji race track is well recommended but beware, if you don’t have a car you’ll have to walk 6 plus miles up a mountain to get there. There aren’t any fatal spiders but there are poisonous ones and they’re quite common. I nearly walked into a web last time at Ebisu, the webs are cleverly positioned at head height! Google maps is brilliant but will direct you through forests and woods that get very overgrown and are ideal for spiders etc. Also Japanese giant hornets need care esp if you have young children. It’s horribly hot and humid in the summer months, if you’re thinking of travelling around much try to avoid these times as you’ll be drenched in sweat in no time. Enjoy!!

Welcome and congrats on your new car. I’m interested to know what made you choose the 86?

Church - thank you again - and this : “My "minimum track set" would be rear LCAs, front camberbolts in both holes, performance alignment with those, more track oriented brake pads & brake fluid of higher boiling temps, that's it.” is exactly what I’d plan. Same as you, I’d kill the edges of the tyre without camber so wouldn’t want to track it until that’s done, otherwise I will leave it completely stock. That’s the plan! Great advice about using stock first though! Lauren - thanks also, and agreed but as above! Hopefully I’ll be reporting back soon with news of my new car 😎 Thanks again for such useful advice 👍

What a fantastic thread 👍 So much inspiration here, thanks for sharing all your findings! Cheers 🍻

Thanks again for the advice. I’ve yet to purchase a GT86 but have pretty much decided now it’ll work as a car that can be bearable on the road yet still huge fun on track, hopefully without costing a fortune in consumables. My plan would be to keep the car as stock as possible and sprint it. Loving the idea of running the primacy tyres!

Many thanks again for the help, much appreciated. Lauren, sorry, my question was whether you thought the stock alignment would kill tyres on track (Church has answered this though) but good to know your alignment settings work for tyre wear on track. Church - thanks again and completely agree about the pyrometer having tried using infra red temp guns before, only way is to do as you describe. Im not bothered about inner tyre wear on the road, as you were saying I also hate ruining tyres on track through lack of camber. I’ve never owned a car that doesn’t do this and the lack of adjustment in modern cars is so annoying. I’ve run adjustable top mounts on a few cars and find it unbelievable that it’s not possible to find a solution that doesn’t knock and make your car sound like a bag of spanners! The camber bolt method I’ll try first then look at adding bushes to get to around 2.5 plus degrees (decimal). Thinking out loud here are there any adjustable lower control arms for the front that are ok for road use? Imagine it might be cheaper and less hassle than changing the bushes in the stock arms. Do you have the rear adjustable control arms? Are they noisy?

Huge thanks people, that’s so helpful!! Lauren - do you think that even with hard track use it won’t kill the edges of its tyres? Church - that couldn’t be more helpful - thank you!! Deacon - as Church was saying it’d be good to keep the mods kind of bolt on . Also lowering is not an option unfortunately.

Hi all, Can anyone confirm whether it’s possible to get around -2.5 degrees front camber whilst running stock suspension/ride height without having to run adjustable top mounts? With a bit of googling I’ve seen you can get camber bolts but would these give enough? Am I right in thinking it’s possible to get about -2 degrees at the back with the stock adjustment? Finally, how bad is outer edge tyre wear on track when running stock alignment? Many thanks 👍