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Notaricer

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Everything posted by Notaricer

  1. Notaricer

    Cheap BBK swap

    I did have a look at them, and they’re not the same. The ones I have bought are a bigger calliper 4 pot and those callipers on Godspeed allow for 125mm, whereas the the ones I have got allow 170mm pads. I’m guessing that also translates to surface area of the cylinders, meaning they are in fact larger - but I could be wrong; they could just house larger pads. I did include the cost of the ferodo pads in the price - which are circa £240 on their own. But I’ll let you make your own assumptions.
  2. Notaricer

    Cheap BBK swap

    An installation video I watched a while back said in order for it to fit under stock 17’s, you would need to shave the top of the calliper and run spacers which then meant you would also need longer bolts[emoji2375]. I guess that’s a budget way of doing things[emoji23]. Well the last set I had was the EBC Ultimax Slotted with Yellowstuff pads. The brake judder was horrendous; I had to heat them up again to get them to square back up[emoji3061]
  3. Notaricer

    Cheap BBK swap

    No I’m not running stock wheels. They will fit under most aftermarket 17’s though. I’ve got 18’s so they will clear no problem. I’ll update this post when I’ve ran them in. Believe it or not though mate, both sets of discs cracked/warped on the road and not on track. You could say I’m a spirited driver and finds some roads worthy of track-like driving. But in all honesty, it’s done that only driving 8/10ths. Hopefully the limiting factor will be me, and not the car - that’ll definitely be the sweet spot[emoji23] For sure mate! I’ll give you a shout if I book something, which I hope is in the near future.
  4. Notaricer

    Cheap BBK swap

    [mention]Church [/mention] I nearly had a stroke reading that[emoji23] Well first of all, they’re 4 pots. They have a larger surface area of pistons, pads are larger and the disc is larger. If this didn’t have any difference over my current OE brakes I’d be really concerned. Also, this would be reflected in the reviews that I have seen. The fact that some brands are more reputable than others is not my fault. Brembos are the pinnacle, (or at least they’re made out to be; all the top spec cars such as F1 use them) so I wedged my bets on that. I understand that these callipers are not monoblock or forged aluminium or GT callipers. I also understand that there is someone more knowledgeable out there than I am, but you’re assuming that I’ve made the decision to go for this kit based on a sticker when that couldn’t be more far from the truth. The whole point of this is to express bang for buck. I haven’t found out the bang for myself just yet but I digress. This is about having the largest improvement to price ratio. It just happens to be that brembos fell right into that category. We’re drifting off topic (pardon the pun) here and getting into semantics. I appreciate the advice for supporting mods for drifting, but this isn’t the topic of discussion. You’re giving your opinion of what you would do and this isn’t the purpose of what I’m trying to seek out. Surely this is clear?
  5. Notaricer

    Cheap BBK swap

    These are just the 326mm rotors from the STi. You can go for the 6 pot kit they offer, but it’s a bit too much for what I need. They actually do a conversion kit from the 4 to the 6 so if you’re not happy or are looking for a change it’s really easy to swap out. The disc size is the same for both though if I remember correctly. I will be using this for fast road and light track use. The main problem I’ve been having is heat dissipation. My stock discs have cracked (only on the front). And when I went for uprated discs, they warped. This seems like a sure fire way of going about it, or at least I hope so. I don’t need overkill. I would definitely go for the AP 6 pot kit if 1. I had the money and 2. If it made sense. Like I said to church, it’s all much of a muchness. I’ll be honest though, I haven’t done much research on the ksports. I feel like because they are a BBK which is more affordable, that they arguably aren’t made to the same quality/standard as the other kits. That’s why I went down the route of picking up a genuine brembo kit from a production car, even though it wasn’t designed for my car - I can make all the necessary tweaks. It has been extensively reviewed and many people seem happy with it. It’s a budget option that I’ve not heard anyone from the UK have explored, but you’re not cheaping out on parts if that makes sense.
  6. Notaricer

    Cheap BBK swap

    [mention]Church [/mention] I don’t require your theoretical skepticism, to which there is a simple solution for. If you feel you’re not happy with the brake bias, simply adjust your cross shaft by screwing it in and out to imbalance the two bars (front and rear). Or better yet buy a balance bar so you can adjust from within the cabin. I’ve seen your arguments towards brake bias repeatedly. They just seem to attack the decisions of others, whilst just regurgitating information that everyone understands. Like i said, the topic of brake bias has been extensively covered, and I as well as others understand the implications of changing setups like this. There is no need to go over this again. If people have questions regarding this, they can make their own post, and I’m sure you would be more than happy to put your two pence in. Not that it’s anyone’s business, but I would benefit from a forward brake bias due to using the car for drifting. It’s each to their own, and much of a muchness to make a subjective argument as someone may well just want to buy this kit for aesthetics. People buy quick-release steering wheels all the time, and there’s no safety benefit from them on the road[emoji2375] As for ‘endorsing’ the swap, you have interpreted what I have said wrong, or you have used the wrong vocabulary. This is a summary of what I have had to do as well as informing others of costs. If anyone else is looking to carry out this swap, they are more than welcome to ask me questions in relation to it.
  7. Notaricer

    2017+ Toyota GT86 alloys ( SOLD )

    Hi mate, as per selling rules you must put an asking price!
  8. Hi, is anyone selling any VLANDS? I’ve got Valentis on the back but I don’t like the kit they offer for the front. PM me if you’ve got some. Can swap stock ones if required - I’ve got BRZ lights. Cheers, Gaz
  9. I’m in work at the moment, so I’ll have a look later on, but I found the prices on my phone in my notes. The official price was £85.15 for the plugs and £190.12 for the clutch, I also got an air con regas as well as a new water pump for free.
  10. I think I still have invoice for it, should you want me to send you a copy to reduce cost. PM me.
  11. I think it was around £85 for the spark plugs and £190 for the clutch
  12. Notaricer

    James' '86 Build

    Does brake bias matter that much, surely if you’ve got a larger surface area in the front than the rear that’s perfectly fine? Thanks for the sources/links. Very helpful. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Notaricer

    James' '86 Build

    Can I ask how much the calipers were and what Impreza model they were off? Seems a cheaper upgrade and very street worthy. Loving the progress btw!!!
  14. Notaricer

    BBK a good idea?

    I have a set of rear callipers, done less than 15k miles there. I recently bought them to replace one of my seized rear callipers (piston problem) but I fixed the error with the tapping of the brake pedal, degreaser and then mintex slider grease. I am buying a BBK, because on the contrary to church saying you shouldn’t be driving on public roads if a BBK is required, it isn’t about the speed you are going, but the distance at which you want to stop in. I think what people are trying to say is, that these aren’t the fastest of cars, but you want to keep them up to speed longer than other cars. So there are ultimately 2 options: lower the car to grip more around bends, stop later than other cars. The first thing you should do before investing into a BBK, is to buy Goodridge SS braided lines, drain your fluid and invest into some racing brake fluid (AP is the best). I think that will make the biggest difference into your daily driving. And for the sake of a total of £150 all in all, it could be the fix. Definitely worked for me, pedal is stiff as anything, sure I’ve got EBC discs and yellowstuff pads but it does the job for daily driving and an unmodified engine with only 200bhp.
  15. I had the same problem. I sent it back to Toyota to do a fuel consumption test, and they said , the mpg was actually better than manufacturers standard. I don’t know how you ever managed to average 35, I average 22, I think before the recall it was 27 but since the updated valve springs, you can push the red limit a bit more. I can only assume that the readout is incorrect. Toyota however, did warn me of the fuel gauge as not totally accurate. Hope this helps.
  16. Toyota dealership contacted Toyota and they said air con regas would come free as part of the recall too. They even paid for the water pump for me too, all I had to pay for was the cost of the new clutch and spark plugs. Highly recommend Bentleys Toyota, warrington. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Well they’ve blatantly lied to you because my aircon didn’t work before the recall because I had 50g in the system when you’re supposed to have 350. Aircon full regas is part of the recall, I would express that to your dealer. If you have any trouble, message me and i shall send you the Toyota invoice for all the work done in the recall and the charge (which was none). Good luck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Notaricer

    Headlight problems

    I have the exact same problem with my driver side headlight. Seems to flicker on and off. Removed the bulb, checked the prices..... put the bulb back in and hoped for the best[emoji23]. Seems to have worked better but I can still notice the flickering whilst driving. No electricals have been messed around with. Only seemed to have noticed it after the recall I had on it. Only thing I can think of is the suspension is hardened and lowered via coilovers which could cause loosening possibly. All I know is the bulbs are supposed to last forever. The earthed housing for the bulb is very dangerous, if you feel you’re not competent enough to be careful, disconnect the battery, there is a LOT of voltage going through there, not a lot of current to kill you but it will act like a taser. Just something to be aware of. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. That is pretty crazy to be fair, I guess it also depends on income and what their outgoings are. I’ll have a look if I genuinely do have a leak somewhere because I get 22.3mpg average and I do a lot of motorway commuting for the most part. I do 30 miles a day so you can imagine how annoying it is always looking at the gauge. If you have any recommendations on tyres it would be greatly appreciated, irrespective of price. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. N/A, I think I’d rather an engine swap than forced induction on it. 2JZ is ideal but impossible to find all the bits with reasonable prices. Ferrari F430 engine is probably going to be the swap. Completely non related to this topic but standard brake calipers are 2 pot on the front and single on the back. Does that mean that I have to keep that 2:1 ratio when upgrading the calipers? So for example, 8 on the front, 4 on the back? Or does this not matter whatsoever? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. 4 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I have been using Michelin pilot sport 4s so I don’t know if that makes a difference, and between 700 and 800 miles a month. I don’t even spin them up regularly I don’t feel, the odd doughnut at a car meet but never enough to deem 2 months of use. I think I’m going to change to pilot sport 2 for the back and see what they’re like. Honestly, my fuel is so bad that I feel like there’s a leak in my tank haha, if I idle it for like half an hour I’ll have use an 1/8 of a tank easy. And this is without using heated seats air con etc etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Just depends how you use the car I suppose, I spend around £300 a month on fuel alone. Need 2 rear tyres every 2 months and 2 front tyres every 6 months. My girlfriend has had 2 BMW’s and spent next to nothing on them[emoji23], plus the 2 BMW’s she’s had we’re £20 a year in tax. These are £260 I think Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Your first statement was companies like to save money on parts like things you can’t physically see such as oil and spark plugs and every reply since has been oil related so I’ve used that to basically say that you can do these things yourself or go to a legit dealer etc etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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