PeterH

'12 plate GT86 complete system, from the head - mileage approx 36k. All in good working order; just swapped with various aftermarket components... Collection from Trowbridge, Wiltshire £500, but open to offers.. PM me? All the pictures are too large to fit on here, but I can send them over if anyone is interested - PM might be the best way forward for this...

Fingers crossed! Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk

They were seized solid! I didn't realise that they had seized, i was driving back from Oxford to Wiltshire - doing 60mph +, got back to. Devizes and that was a suspicious smell,and the rear of the car was sinking to the floor when moving. After nursing it to the garage, they took it apart and the brake pads, in the mechanic's words "blew away in the breeze"... Lol. Not. [emoji52] Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk

Sorry to hear that vad, hope all goes well. I'll just mention, the rear brakes seized on my mazda 6 and I took it to a garage where they replaced both rear calipers, pads etc without much consideration (£600). Two weeks later, one of those calipers failed again, and was replaced under warranty, then another two weeks later the handbrake seized and the cable was wrecked. On my FOURTH trip to the garage, they dismantled everything, had a proper look, gave it a proper clean, and discovered that the slide pins were gunged up and weren't moving properly. They replaced these, and I've not had a problem since... My point is, don't necessarily assume the worst - it might be a £40 slide pin issue, instead of a hugely expensive caliper issue! Sorry for rambling - but i feel much better for getting that off my chest [emoji16] Best of luck! Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk

[emoji17] Not good. I'm not very familiar with auto 'boxes, but could it be worth checking any fuses etc (I'm assuming there must be some electronic control somewhere?), perhaps just to rule out what you can? Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk

As nikndel is alluding to - if it can be rolled when in neutral, then surely it can't be the brakes (not a mechanical issue anyway?) Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk

I know this comment isn't going to help much - but dude, I'm sorry to hear that... [emoji17] Is there any chance of sneaking in a high performance cam shaft instead of them fitting a stock one? Might actually be cheaper? (don't take my word for it though)... Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk

I contacted them directly too)(despite not having a letter). They didn't hesitate to book me in to get the work done, mine was basically stock so they were able to do it a my local dealership - but i asked them about heavily modified examples; they said that they would take the heavily modded car at the dealership, then transport it up to Macclesfield on a truck and have the work done there. Also, the work that I had done as part of the recall (oil change, filter and a couple of other bits) was basically the work that I needed for the annual service a couple of months later. I mentioned this to the chap at the dealership, and he said that it wouldn't be worth me taking the car back for its service. While they can't stamp the book as it wasn't technically a 'service', they'll write a statement to use with the recall letter (when I receive it) to say that they have done the necessary work for the annual service (hopefully that makes sense!) Something else to consider, perhaps...? Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk

That's bad luck... I was under the impression that the JDL ones were pretty highly rated!! Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk

Oh. My. God. That picture is terrifying! Which manifold is that, and what was the outcome? Worse case scenario for mine - it looks as though if the cat failed, that the straight 6 inch section of the manifold (with the cat in it) could be chopped out and welded back in place with a new cat. Not ideal, i know, but a possibility... I'll definitely be bearing that mind! [emoji106] Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk

Morning everyone, I've not posted on here for a while, since I had the valve springs changed a few months ago - but I've made some good progress on some of the modifications I wanted to make to the exhaust since then, so I thought I'd type up a quick update and share a few pics!! Just before I sent it to Toyota, I had a Speedfactory UEL (catted) manifold fitted, and while it was incredibly shiny, it wasn't quite as loud as I wanted. It introduced a burble, but quite a muted one - so I wanted to allow the thing to breathe even better and be a little more vocal too. I've wanted to maintain the two cats (seems more 'true to the car'); one of them is in the manifold, and the other in the front pipe and it took a bit of time for me to decide which brand to go for for the latter. In the end I chose a Berk front pipe as it seemed to capable of doing the job, and wasn't quite as expensive as some of the other alternatives. I then specified a Milltek system from there back (chrome tailpipes) and then all of that was sat in the garage for a good couple of months! (Just to summarise: Speedfactory UEL catted manifold, Milltek overpipe, Berk frontpipe, Milltek catback). In the meantime, I was trying to decide whether the extra cost of a remap was worth the expense - after lots of reading on forums and other bits on the net, I decided the best option was to drive the extra distance to Abbey, get them to fit the system; as well as book it in for a remapping session while it was in the workshop. This they did perfectly well - I've no complaints at all - and it was interesting to properly learn about the added functionality of the RaceRom features of the ECUtek setup while I was there... The guys did an amazing job; Mark took me out in the car to demonstrate some of the features - the switchable maps, auto-blip on downshift, launch control and flat foot shifting. Being a fully integrated part of the existing ECU instead of an add-on means that the it fully ties in with the existing interface; using the cruise control stalk to flick between four different maps is AWESOME: MAP 1. Max power | MAP 2. Max power, decreased throttle response (for rubbish weather) | MAP 3. Max power with RaceRom features | MAP 4. Max power with RaceRom features, and pops-and-bangs on lift off I've stuck mostly with map 1; the constant popping and banging of unburnt fuel in the exhaust isn't good for the system long term, and the cat in the Speedfactory manifold isn't covered under warranty - I've done it on occasion though, when the mood takes me... (which is an advantage with ECUtek; and being able to flick through the maps with the engine running - no stopping and starting to reset the system is required.) So, the moment you've all being waiting for... MTECH AUTOMOTIVE (power run; car completely standard - although I think it already had the Cosworth panel filter when I bought it): ABBEY MOTORSPORT (its current setup; a full stainless system and remap): Apologies for the inconsistency between rolling roads - to help me compare the two, I found this quote from the Dyno Dynamics website: "In the UK we usually quote power and torque at the engine flywheel just like all manufacturers - a chassis dyno however measures the torque and power at the wheels, which is always a lower figure as some energy is lost in the driveline. This loss is different for different vehicles. The flywheel power quoted is therefore a calculated value - it is not directly measured. Some dynos will simply estimate this loss based on settings inputted by the operator - our Dyno Dynamics dyno operates in this way. Other dynos perform a ‘coast down’ measurement to try and measure the driveline loss. In theory coast down should provide a more accurate figure for more vehicles, but in reality both methods have their own issues." So, my assumption is that the MTech reading is estimated Flywheel-power (based on the actual power-at-the wheels). The Dynapack reading itself is actually power-at-the-wheels. Adding 10 - 15% on to the latter value for an estimated Flywheel-power (to tie in with the MTech graph) gives something around 200 - 210bhp; a pretty big increase!!!! It's not all about the highest value though; the advantages of a remap is that the entire curve is optimised - and Mark at Abbey did a sound job of reducing that torque dip at around 4200rpm. I'm so pleased with the results - the whole process was slightly more expensive than I would have liked, but knowing what I now know, I don't think I would have done it any other way. The sound the car makes now suits the 86 way more than it ever did; it's not too loud at motorway speeds, but it's got a special note when idling and accelerating aggressively - it's definitely flexing it's flat-four-pack muscles - what a beaut Big shout out and massive thanks to Mark@Abbey M/S for the great work, and getting the most out of the car... Comments are welcome of course; I'm open to suggestions on my interpretation of the dyno readouts - but I hope I haven't droned on too much. Hope you enjoyed the read...!

You definitely don't need a letter, I don't have one either... I used this site beforehand too, to check the recall status - it's a gov one too, so i reckon it should be pretty reliable: https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk

I might have to have a trip to castle combe soon, that'd be good. I've not done a track day before - not owned anything worth doing it in! I might be wrong, but if the engine is modified that heavily, they'll take it up to Macclesfield (i think). You can still arrange it through platinum, and they'll stick on a trailer up there - there's a gt86 specialist there who is doing recall work for modified engines. ... Bit of a pain having to go through a few more hurdles - and you might find they need it for longer - but at least you'd know it was being taken care of properly. I'd be interested to know how you get on! Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk

Thanks very much Rob! I'll keep my eye out for some local meets; although not seen too many in this area (unless I'm not looking in the right place (which is quite possible!)) I did have my valve springs done - I contacted Platinum as soon as i read about the issue on here, and they had it booked in within 2/3 weeks. Mainly dealt with Darrell in the office, and becuase they had to have it a bit longer (as I work away) I was in communicating with two different techies, both of whom knew what they were doing. They said the job would take 3 days, and that's exactly how they took! Mine was the first manual that 'my' tech had done, but there ws no issues whatsoever - they've both taken a course on how to do it, so they were pretty clued up on it. AND they complemented me on my manifold ... actually, on that subject - if you've got any modifications, it'd be worth mentioning it beforehand... just in case. My exhaust was alright, as it was a standard fit using Subaru gaskets, but like I said, it'd be good to tell them in advance.

Not just any Yaris. An automatic, hybrid Yaris. (say that in the m&s advert voice and it sounds far more exciting) [emoji6] Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk