Jamie_GRMN

It was like a little rally stage, I loved it

Ta Alec, was meaning to post it up

Going to be back in York recovering from a wedding so can't make it, sorry

Definitely interested in seeing the full process. Done a little bit of fibreglassing myself but never anything as large as a body panel

Sounds like a proper sh**er mate. I'm with prestige and they were very helpful, not sure on how good if a claims needed though as I don't think anyone's had to make one... I was going with Adrian flux as they were a little cheaper but they cut me off at there closing time.

They must be monstrous, I tend to take the ones around here at an angle just incase... Do you know what the rake is at the moment? Looks very even, whilst you're raising it id put the rear up a little more just to get it too the standard amount

How much are you raising by? I'd only be raising the rear tbh... The front is the same as mine and have no real trouble with speed bumps unless I decide to scare people..

Welcome to the club Regarding the brake squeal there is a TSB out for which Toyota will replace under warranty with a different set, but this has a different coefficient of friction so brake performance is reduced... Not enough that it would be an issue on the road, depends if you want to do any track work

Fairly sure if you ordered new then you can request whatever springs you'd like at no extra cost...

The air con gas changed before the 2014 cars, why I had to wait so long for mine when I bought it apparently... I thought it went from the standard cheapy stuff to the unicorn fart stuff but may have been the other way. Whichever way it was, as has already been said it should work fine after a re-gas, the gas acts as a lubricant for all the seals in the system, don't use it and they dry out allow it to weep.

https://www.amayama.com/en/ ??? Edit: On checking the part numbers only the rear number Steve posted gives a result, and that probably won't work out much cheaper than one from a dealer tbh

The primo looks like a good buy if you don't need the comforts, I'd have gone for it myself I reckon.... Buuuut how would the ECUtek remap work? It uses cruise control to change map so if that isn't available there must be another way

Ohh and welcome by the way

Pretty much, last year I did the last three... But still got third in class I think... Tyres are up to you, first two events I did I changed at the track due to which set the grippy ones were on (Goodyear Eagles) now I just just drive too and from on the same (Advan V105) As long as you have decent tread on to begin with you'll be fine, sprinting isn't that hard on them

Confirmed my place and nice to see TGB keeping up with the times and requesting the counterpart which should've been destroyed by now...

Took out a squirrel last year at the Rockingham round of the TSS...

I'll hopefully be able to make it if it's August

Give me till Monday (I've left work now and about to head to Dublin) and I'll get the install instructions for the front and rear, will have all torques & part numbers on and sequences etc. Just send me a PM with your email address and I'll send the PDF's over

I used the system I have access to through work, will be the same as the mega pdf I guess, just online and not one file so can browse and find things. Sorry forgot to confirm the front, but that sounds about right.

The Four bolts that hold the subframe to the car are 145Nm, the repair manual also says a new bolt should be used. The two bolts on each side that hold the brace on the front in place are 70Nm, bolts can be reused Hope that helps mate

Don't see your name name down for Woodbridge Alec

I know this is not beneficial to the discussion in the thread... (Please feel free to delete) Why not save the money you would spend on a ps4, game, wheel so it can go towards driving the tracks in real life...

You do know you're meant to drive a GT86 I've only ever driven a Transit, was surprisingly chuckable tbh...

You shouldn't have any issue with losing the key, will take a fair bit of effort to get it out. The bolt will be tricky, ours are tightened up to 210Nm on the ZR engine (may be slightly less as the torsional vibration on the crank is less on the FA20), a rather heafty air impactor is used to remove them if needed. I would expect a rather long bar will be needed

They're all on Rota's, well thats what it said on the Car Throttle article anyway