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Everything posted by 3782mc
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I also have the same exhaust as @willclarke (the H&S with Helmholtz resonators), volume-wise I typically get low 80s on track days. Zero drone whatsoever and sounds very civilised when driven sensibly, but really sings when you give it the beans. Here is what it sounds like BTW:
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I was running Ferodo DS2500 at the time (the standard pads that come with the kit - hated them with a passion), the discs had seen approx. 8 track days at that point IIRC. I wouldn’t say that the DS2500 is a particularly aggressive pad, in fact I would say they were far too mild for my liking. Now switched to PMu HC+ but haven’t tracked the car enough (due to lockdown) to tell if the compound has made a difference. That said, they are excellent pads for pure road use but not aggressive enough on track - I have ordered a set of Endless ME20 which will be going on as soon as the PMus wear down.
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Tanabe Medalion Concept G Cat Back Exhaust System
3782mc replied to Ben Christer's topic in For Sale GT86 / BRZ Parts
That’s an incredibly good price for a very decent-sounding exhaust... not sure why anyone would get one of those Malian eBay jobs over something like this! -
The rear lights won’t be any different - but it would be interesting to see the fronts.
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@Leonard Going by the pictures in this 2012 review, I’d say you have an AUS market “GT” grade car: https://www.drive.com.au/car-review/2012-toyota-86-gt-manual-australian-road-test-review-76399.html
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Very nice! Sounds even better in person though IIRC from the last club day at Bedford 👍🏼
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I haven’t checked properly yet but good point if that’s the case! I’ve had 225/45/17s on my car for so long I often forget they’re not the OEM size 😂
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Yes my experience with FedEx (and most couriers) has been the same, I normally just got with JapanPost for that reason in which case RM or Parcelforce handle the charges and they tend to be pretty accurate with the calculations.
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I’m keen to try the Pirelli P Zero (PZ4) myself - they’re often compared to the PS4 on Porsche forums but come off unfavourably in that Pirellis take longer to get up temperature on the road. However that’s a good thing to me as it suggests the P Zeros will have more resistant to heat fade than the PS4, and the general consensus (based in what I’ve read) is that the Pirellis have the edge on the Michelins in both grip and feel when properly up to temp - which is not generally an issue in a track environment.
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Getting circa -2.5 degrees negative camber at the front?
3782mc replied to git-r's topic in Modifications
Noise issue resolved... it wasn’t anything to do with the Pedders mounts in the end, so as far as I’m concerned they are still a good product - Church I’ll PM you separately to avoid clogging up this thread (about getting camber rather than noise) 👍 -
Getting circa -2.5 degrees negative camber at the front?
3782mc replied to git-r's topic in Modifications
Yep the widetrack LCAs definitely add camber, as mentioned in my other post I was able to get -1.3 using those alone and no camber bolts / top mounts 🙂 Actually that’s given me an idea to check the adjustment screw on the arms, which could be the source of the noise if loose... and thank you for mentioning wheel bearings, which I suppose could also be the culprit as my car is relatively high mileage 100k miles / 160,000 km, has been running spacers (only 10mm though) and is tracked regularly so that could be it as well. I don’t think it’s endlinks rubbing since I’m running stock type struts (TRD rally suspension) and stock ride height, the endlinks are the solid Perrin urethane ones (i.e. there are no ball joints) which I fitted 2 weeks ago as my old links were worn anyway. The noise was there before and hasn’t changed since I changed the endlinks so I don’t think it’s related. I guess it’s one for my specialist to look at, hoping it’s not the LCA bushes as I’m not sure how easily one can get replacements from Cusco, and they probably won’t be cheap either 😕 -
Getting circa -2.5 degrees negative camber at the front?
3782mc replied to git-r's topic in Modifications
Here is a link for the widetrack LCAs (might need Google Translate though!): https://www.cusco.co.jp/products/i/etc-parts/86brz_23.html. They’re not cheap but as I’m running skinny wheels (17x7.0J ET48) it helps to push the wheels out a little without using spacers which I like. Good idea about painting the bolt heads - I had also thought of that but only after they had been removed from the car 🤦♂️ will definitely try that though if I go back to using camber bolts 👍 Not sure why my bolts were slipping, or perhaps that wasn’t actually the case - I just know that my camber can change as much as 0.6 between each alignment (which at one point was between each track day and I was going once a month) and the explanation from the shop - a reputable GT86 specialist - is that this was something that just happens but perhaps (i) this is actually the effect of other suspension components moving, and (ii) loctite / paint etc. on the camber bolts might help reduce this “slippage”. Thanks for the video - I can’t remember if I’d already watched this one but will check it out - I’m genuinely stumped as to what the noise will be, it’s definitely metallic sounding but I checked for rubbing and there was none... as you say, a bad mount would not just make noises when going over bumps which is definitely the case here (it’s dead silent when steering), will capture a video when I next go for a drive and also check the spring perches in case one of the coils isn’t seated properly. Failing that I’ll have to take this to my local specialist to diagnose the problem, I need to pay them a visit anyway to install my O2W oil cooler and updated radiator for when track days start again (after the lockdown) 🙂 -
Getting circa -2.5 degrees negative camber at the front?
3782mc replied to git-r's topic in Modifications
Thanks Church. I’m actually running -2.2 camber in total camber at the front, -0.9 from the Pedders and -1.3 from my widetrack front LCAs. I was using camber bolts to get to -2.0 before the Pedders, but found that they would slip quite often (after every track day) hence the reason for changing to angled mounts... the clunking is now making me wonder if this was a mistake, but I probably just have a bad mount which should be covered by the Pedders warranty 👍 -
Getting circa -2.5 degrees negative camber at the front?
3782mc replied to git-r's topic in Modifications
Thanks Church - sounds like I either got a bad one or a problem with another part of the front suspension (I already checked the endlinks and it’s not that), will give these another chance I guess 😊 For anyone else interested in the Pedders mounts, they have me -0.9 camber on stock ride height. -
Getting circa -2.5 degrees negative camber at the front?
3782mc replied to git-r's topic in Modifications
Hey Church, can I ask how you’re getting on with your Pedders top mounts? I had mine installed in January this year and have been very happy with them, however one of them is now starting to clunk over bumps after only 800 miles and 2 track days - might have just been unlucky though, and got a bad one. Cheers -
I’m still amused that you were somehow charged £1 less in import duties, despite the fact that we placed our orders at pretty much the same time 😂
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I actually have a set of AD08R (205/55/16) for these as well - they still have between 5-6mm of thread so a decent amount. I had these on my car for around a year and tracked a couple of times on these, the fact that they are 7.0J wide (vs 6.5J for the OEM 16”s) gives a more square setup and they are not wallowy at all on tyres with stiffer sidewalls like the Yokos. Anyway, feel free to PM me for more details if you’re genuinely interested.
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I have the Reylands and they clear my Prodrives (17x7.5J, ET48) without spacers. On that basis I imagine they should be ok with 8.0J wheels with the same offset.
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I have a set of WedsSport SA15R in 16x7.0J, ET48 configuration if of interest - they’re pretty light at 6.6kg each and are the same wheels fitted to some of the cars running in the Gazoo Racing 86/BRZ one-make race series in Japan.