hashiriya

Thanks for the invite Rob but I can't make it as I'm scheduled to be in Germany that weekend.

The stock covers will simply pull off. The APR covers have a bolt which holds them on. When I fitted my APR, i pulled back the arch lining from the front wheel arch and reach in from there is i remember correctly?

Lookin good! glad you like them.

I work near huntingdon and live in Mildenhall so I'm quite near also.

Hi, Another East Anglian is good to see. Where about in Cambs are you?

I Think a W40 will work well for you especially as it can get a bit warm in Portugal. I use a very similar weight in mine and have had no problems so far.

I'll make sure I have stock available for you then

I had a discussion with someone about needing better braking when going with more power. This is what I said to them at the time and I'm sure they won't mind me reusing it here: Regarding whether you need better brakes with FI or not, the point I make is always the same. Will having the extra power mean that you will drive faster everywhere? Of course on the circuit you will be going faster before you start braking so better brakes is always a good choice, but on the road if you are doing normal driving around town or on the motorway I would guess that your speed will be about the same, you will just get there sooner with the extra power. This means that under those situations you probably won't need any extra braking. If you are looking to blast on the back roads and through some corners then again you have to think "Am I going to go faster into the corner or just accelerate harder but stick to a certain speed?" if you are planning on reaching higher speeds then of course the extra braking will help but if you don't intend on reaching higher top speeds then maybe it won't be as effective. I guess you know how you drive and how much you use the brakes so you can always base your decision on that.

Wheels are now sold. Thank you all for the interest

From my experience top mount turbos are generally used for a number of reasons. The first is that the manifolds tend to be under less stress. Tubular manifolds under high temperatures can be quite stressed and crack from the weight of the turbo plus the vibrations and forces of the engine moving etc. It's generally easier and stronger to have a manifold which can use the tubes themselves under compression to help support the weight of the turbo. The second is a more efficient routing of the intake piping system and also space to mount the turbo itself. Aftermarket turbos can be quite large and you tend to find that they can sometimes struggle to fit between the engine and the chassis around it. The third is ease of maintenance if you can reach it easier. Regarding the oil sump, most turbos have a pressurised feed to get oil in but rely on gravity to get the oil out. This would mean that you need to have the turbo positioned higher than the oil sump (Although I would struggle to see how any any car you would get the turbo so low) but from a practical point of view, I would guess that anyone choosing to place their turbo close to the oil sump is doing it to minimise the length of the oil return line. There are many considerations when it comes to turbo kit design but most of it is dictated by the space you have available to work with and the ideal routing for your intake and boost piping.

Throw me an offer Ladies and Gentlemen... Nothing will offend but please be sensible.

somebody mentioned something about impeller speeds... The GTS7040 size unit as used in the kits for 86 has a maximum recommended impeller speed of 110,000. Many have gone a little bit faster and been OK (in fact the 86 in stock configuration does go over by a small amount) but for warranty purposes, you don't really want to push these boundaries. The crank pulley diameter is 148mm on these cars and the stock pulley size on the V2 is 90mm. The drive ratio of the supercharger unit is 9.444 and so at 7500 rpm the impeller is actually rotating at almost 117,000rpm. Certainly couldn't recommend that you try and go any faster than that but I do know of some shops who have pushed the boundaries and gone for an 85mm pulley and are spinning it up at over 123K. So far they haven't broken it but it's only getting limited use on circuit and they accept that any breakage (if it should occur) would't be covered by any warranty etc.

Hi Everyone, As some of you know, I’ve recently changed my wheels and tyres in anticipation of some other upgrades that I’ve got in the works. So I now have my RAYS Gram Lights 57 XTREME wheels up for sale I have a set of 57 XTREME wheels in 18” x 7.5J ET40. They spent about 15,000 miles on my car and have had a bit of curbing 2 of the wheels after an Italian guy forgot which side of the road we drive on in the UK. It shouldn’t take too much to get these fully repaired though and due to its colour it isn’t really obvious unless you start to look closer. I chose the 18x7.5 size as this is the same as the TRD specification and when initially building the car, I wanted to show a fair comparison between the performance of HKS parts (in particular the suspension) and a “stock” car. From my understanding the TRD wheels are also 18x7.5 but have offset of ET46. As mine are ET40 this would mean they are further out by 6mm on each wheel filling out the arches that little bit more. It’s possible to be even more aggressive with spacers but I don’t think it’s really necessary. These wheels have a set of AVON ZZ5 tyres in 225/40/18 size (again same size as TRD spec). Two of the tyres have approximately 6mm of tread and the other pair have approximately 4mm tread. I have a spare NEW pair of ZZ5 also which I will include in the sale Here are a couple of photos with the wheels fitted to my car. FYI this car has been lowered by around 20-25mm from stock at the time of taking these pictures. *Please note that the wheel nuts and centre caps pictures are not included in this sale but the original rays valves will of course stay. These wheels are priced new at £1176 for a set of 4 and whilst tyre prices can vary from shop to shop you can expect to pay £65-80 per tyre. Based on this rough calculation we have a value of over £1500 for this complete setup. I’d like to ask £800 for these (including the spare tyres) due to the use and slight damage. These wheels and tyres are located in Cambridgeshire and anyone is welcome to come and view them here or come and collect if buying. I’d be happy to mail them out by courier if we can agree on a cost also or possibly deliver them myself depending on distance and schedule. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me and I’ll do my best to address all enquiries. This is a great chance to get yourself into some genuine JDM wheels at a size which will be suitable for anyone from stock to forced induction (I ran them at around 300hp for a while and the grip levels were absolutely fine) Looking forward to hearing from you. Maz

Lauren, If you want Project Mu, then Hendy Performance have recently become the UK distributor. I think the range they have in stock is a bit limited at this time but I'm sure they will expand it as the enquiries come in.

I use PFC Z rated compound and find them very good. I used to have Ferodo DS2500 too and couldn't fault them either.