Shad

+1 Only an issue when logged in though. When I delete all the cookies for the domain (and become logged out) it's fine. Logging in with cache disabled makes no difference, still broken. Firefox 97 on macOS.

That's a shame. I bought some MTEC parts from them last year over the phone and had a positive experience.

There's nothing particularly wrong with good quality hub-centric spacers that either have their own studs, or include longer studs. It's much the same as having a different offset wheel. The issues are mainly when people try to use the original studs and there isn't enough thread for the wheel nuts, and the increased load on the hub bearings is negligiable for the sort of spacer sizes involved here.

Ideally you'd want a floating disc with a fixed caliper like that, otherwise you may start to see the effects of pad knock-back/knock-off after cornering - i.e. a long brake pedal for the initial pedal press after a corner. It can depend a lot on the age and quality of the hub, piston seals, and whether or not there are any anti-knock-back springs in the caliper (unusual on road cars). If you're unfamiliar with pad knock-back, what happens is when you corner there will be a certain amount of flex in the hub and a certain amount of run-out from the hub and disc that contribute to the disc running slightly off-axis, and that pushes the pad and pistons slightly further back into the caliper. The next time you press the brake pedal you have to overcome this extra distance before the pads are making good contact on the disc again, which can be a bit disconcerting. We see it all the time in the Caterhams and a lot of people get used to giving the pedal a light brush with their left foot along the straights. The ideal solution is a floating disc or caliper (standard road car calipers 'float' on sliders) to accomodate for the flexing.

No worries. The BRZ interior is a much more subtle and grown-up affair

I have one from my MY2016 BRZ which I replaced with a new one I bought from Japan in September (cost £97.59 including shipping by the way). It's in good condition, the leather is a little shiny from use and there's a very small scratch on the silver ring around the gear pattern. Difficult to photograph. Yours for £50 posted.

End of year trip to Weymouth, and now tucked up in the garage with the rest of the toys.

I did this job a couple of months ago, fairly sure you push the connector to free it. One of the video references I used seems to confirm - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbbyT1ayEjQ

I'm after a set of 4 first gen OEM wheels. If anyone not too far from the Newbury area has a mint set of wheels, ideally without tyres, please let me know.

If I didn't actually like the car and want to keep it, I've probably got a healthy £4k profit in my BRZ since buying it last November. But whatever you gain you'd lose right away buying a replacement car, unless you go back down the ladder, or don't need another car at the moment. So it's all a bit academic really Give it 18-24 months and things will start to get back to normal.

Is it as simple as that though? In the instance of the windscreen, Toyota list that as part SU003G0005 and Subaru as part 65009CA030. My BRZ glass has 'Subaru' lettering printed on it too, so I would be surprised if it was exactly the same part. If you're a picky bastard like me I'd be after a genuine Subaru screen, even if it means waiting a few weeks.

Probably on a boat from Japan, give it another couple of weeks. Did you need to do any work to convince them to use a genuine Subaru screen?

Does anyone have any experience with having their BRZ go through its 6th year body service and the underbody retreatment process? I'm approaching that point with my car and will be speaking to the local Subaru dealers for prices, but possibly also 3rd parties who do that sort of thing too. Sadly my body service history is missing 2 stamps so with the warranty now void I'm not tied to getting Subaru to do the job, although I'm wondering if they'd be the best place anyway. All input welcome!

Nice to see a recommendation for Bulldog. I've been using them for parts so far. I do the servicing myself so not worried about that (plus the car has only covered 27k miles so I won't be touching the spark plugs for a long while yet). Seems like a fair price for the undersealing work though, thanks for that info

The trouble is the by-the-book process for getting at the switch involves taking the gearbox out, so on that basis 4 hours doesn't seem unreasonable. The switch seems to be on the top side of the gearbox so getting at it while the gearbox is in the car is going to be tricky at best, but it may still be doable with small hands/perseverence/the right tools. Obviously if it can be done with the gearbox left in-situ it should take much less time and consumables. You can view the details through here: https://dgefsm40w4znf.cloudfront.net/stis/index.html#/diagnostics

I have a manual. I love manuals, love changing gear, rev matching, heal & toe, all that good stuff. Never owned an automatic car in my life. But as manual transmission experiences go, the FT86 is nothing to write home about. The 2nd gear selection issue when cold is a bit ridiculous, and the clutch pedal feel is very poor. I will seriously consider the auto if I ever buy a different one. With that said, changing to Motal 300 or Redline MTL can help with selection issues, and a different clutch pedal spring can help there too.

I get that a tiny bit as well, and a little from the loop on the seat that the belt runs through. My main complaint at the moment is a rattle from the steering column when going over a rough surface, like a railway crossing, or cobbles. I've had the EPS motor out and replaced the gear known to fail. I've replaced both front damper top mounts and ARB drop links. I've had all of the steering column area/dashboard trim and the intstruments out and made minor improvements with loom tape and foam. The column itself appears to be solid and in good order. But the fundamental rattle/clunking persists. Next thing I might try is checking the steering rack fixings but I have low hopes.

Today it was the Caterham! But I did some 130 miles in the BRZ yesterday, and I'vr just been to visit my parents in the MX-5. There's always the perfect car for any occasion 😄

Because I'm a tart and wanted a photo of the fleet all together before the MX-5 goes on the market. My attainable ultimate 3 car garage!

I've got a fairly big chip in mine on the passenger side, and the rest of the screen is peppered with tiny marks. In the collective experience here, are replacement screens usually a genuine Subaru/Toyota part, or a pattern part? Have any of you requested or specified the type of glass to use? Obviously I'm keen to get a genuine Subaru screen...

Yes that one's mine, but most companies I know that hire Caterhams for track use would be fine with on a wet day like that. But your car will slide around very nicely in those conditions, it's a great tool to learn with.

Get yourself on a cheap track day in the winter and pray for rain. Everything happens at a much lower speed but you can practise losing control and sliding the car around without too much to worry about. The best bit is that when something goes wrong on the road you'll be much better prepared to deal with it. This was some of the most fun I've ever had on track, despite getting quite wet!

Agree with the above. I think you'll be doing well to sell for much more than £12k, maybe £12,500 on a good day. If the £16k asking has come from rough market value PLUS the rough cost of the modifications, then that's not really how it works in the real world! For most people modifications will decrease the value, unless you find someone who was specifically looking to make those modifications themselves (which does happen of course). Good points: Mileage Service history Brake pads and rotors Bad points: Automatic Modified Needs tyres For another point of reference, six months ago I paid under £12k privately for a 2015 BRZ Lux with 25k miles on it, with part service history. It also needed tyres, and a thorough servicing (everything bar coolant and plugs).

I like how they still have cheap nasty switches for the heated seats. No point upgrading until they sort that out.

I've just fitted a Kenwood DMX8020DABS and discovered you can modify the boot screen of the unit to give it a slightly more OEM appearance (sadly I don't think you can do much about the rest of the UI which is a bit less polished...). Here's the end result: I followed the guide from here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgcVXVQIKrw From reading around the comments there, their website, and elsewhere, it seems the head units are a bit tetchy about the image file used. To give me the best shot at success I used the provided image and updated that. If you use GIMP you can create an image that's for all intents and purposes the same so it ought to work too. I've attached the files I used to make it a simple process for any other users. Should work for any recent DDX/DMX Kenwood units and the JVCs too, just follow the advice in the spreadsheets linked in the video description. The only negative is the boot image isn't shown on the display for quite as long as the default. Not sure why, seems normal, and I doubt it's fixable. Still, happy with the result: If anyone knows of other customisation options (like disabling the warning message) let me know! Has anyone else done this mod? Customisation files used: OpeningCustomize.txt image1.bmp