GTB

Geoff from West Sussex: 2008 Vmax tribal 1600 miles mint (my 3rd Vmax, love `em or hate `em) a keeper only goes out when it`s warm 1988 NS400R restored by a previous owner better than money in the bank as above 1980 RD125 aircooled twin restored by me never had it on the road yet 1980 RD200 aircooled twin restored by a previous owner currently being resprayed to blue ride it regularly in Summer On the lookout for an early TL1000S "widow maker" a sure fire future classic !

Yes Mark, there is still free play. I have floored it in 2nd and 3rd on map 2 and no clutch slip (back end went out though). Setting it how he says allows for self adjust as clutch wears. if you over adjust it you`ll know as you won`t be able to manually push the actuator back.

They are the dogs danglies, especially on a white car !

Just received this email from John at Jackson Transmissions where the info came from for this thread: Geoff, That’s awesome! I’m glad you found our video and found it helpful. That is after all why we posted them. However we may be in the market in the future with parts for your transmission. Many of the guys state side are pushing them pretty high in power and we actually have a gearbox here now for R&D. I can tell you there is much room for improvement! We are working with manufactures now for a strong gear set. While it’s still early in the stages it is coming. Thanks, John

I have just posted this on the other forum for clarification after a couple of questions: Corrective action on a stock car (when I say stock I mean clutch and gearbox) is to follow the steps in the video link. I make no claims for any improvement but it has 100% worked for me. If you get under the dash with a mirror and torch you can see a hard stop at upper and lower limit of pedal travel. It is fixed, not adjustable, they are hard metal bracket stops. The master cylinder push rod has a threaded end and is attached to the clutch pedal. This allows adjustment of the master cylinder push rod position in relation to clutch pedal at upper limit hard stop. To slacken the locknut it is easier if you remove the white plastic grommet at lower hard stop. You can then get a spanner in there. If you wind the pushrod anti-clockwise (may need a little pressure on the clutch pedal) and start to lower the pedal you are pulling the pedal away from the hard stop and limiting the travel and thus throw of the clutch actuator at the bell housing. To counteract this you probably then have to wind in the upper limit travel switch to compensate. The switch isn`t for use as a hard stop. Winding the push rod clockwise does not lower the pedal but allows more throw at the clutch by effectively taking up the free play. THINK OF THE THREAD ON THE PUSHROD AS THE CABLE ADJUSTER ON A CABLE OPERATED BRAKE OR CLUTCH ON A MOTORBIKE AT THE HANDLEBAR LEVER. ON A MOTORBIKE YOU ADJUST THIS TO REDUCE FREE PLAY. Follow the steps on the video and set it accordingly. Once my pedal was back at full travel I reckon my pushrod turned about 2.5 rotations but wasn`t counting. I then backed it off per video. It is unbelievable the difference it has made. To find the actuator just follow the hydraulic line from the master cylinder to the slave. Get someone to depress the clutch you`ll see it move for clarification.

After 2 days driving I can confirm I have a very slick gearchange just like the brochure promised. The pedal stroke is what it is, determined by upper and lower hard stops. Lowering it by using the master cylinder pushrod is wrong. You are then surely using the back stop of the push rod as the upper hard stop which over time will surely knacker your master cylinder ? The push rod adjustment is not for this. The bite point and travel are fine for me. I am just very disappointed with Toyota that they are failing to look at the blindingly obvious and am glad that in my particular case can now stick 2 fingers up to them and say "told you so, clutch drag !" I have written to my local service centre manager as I promised him I would keep him informed of any developments. That`s WKB Toyota in Chichester. Be interesting to see if I get a reply.

Can`t see any, as long as you torque the bolts correctly and re-check wheel nuts a few miles later none what so ever. The nuts that connect the spacer to the hub would only cause an issue if thay ALL came loose. Very unlikely. When you go to fit make sure any spigot rings are removed..................

Love the louvre and if it hadn`t been for the group buy on the Tarmac rear visor I`d have got one. Still might......very retro.

Drove to work this morning 8 miles, very cold. 1st couple of times 1st to 2nd stiff but no crunch. Everything else excellent with no graunching, clunking, baulking etc etc. Even with clutch depressed for several seconds I would previously get a clunk all the way to back axle on occasion. The idea IS to get maximum throw of the actuator to fully brake the clutch so YES your bite point will raise and pedal travel will be longer. BUT you won`t trash your gearbox and knacker your synchros. The actuator is on top of the bell housing and easy to find. When you press it you can see the fluid rise in the reservoir. Extend the pedal pushrod until you cant move the actuator then back it off a tiny amount at a time until you can. Lowering the bite point WILL make it worse as you are restricting the throw of the actuator. Toyota and Subaru do not have mechanics with personal experience of taking things apart and fixing them. They have college trained spanner monkeys who follow flowcharts and spreadsheets. "Computer says no" just about sums it up. I have suggested to them on more than one occasion it was clutch drag but not once have they adjusted the clutch. The adjustment is there for a reason !

I have recently fitted 15mm front and 20mm rear on my 17" Rota Boost wheels (which are only 3mm different offset to OEM I think) and very pleased with the aesthetic results. Very marginally heavier on steering and slightly less tendency to put the back end out (which is a -ve not +ve). Very pleased.

A272 perhaps ? lovely on a bike let alone a car !

You will hear it before you see it.......

I will pop along to Goodwood to say hello but won`t be walking or pubbing (do too much of both as it is).

Rear screen visor from Tarmac. £75 delivered and aesthetically excellent and 5 min job to fit.

I have H & S cat back unres with a Cobra secondary cat delete pipe (which according to Mark @ Abbey is resonated). On Map 1 poodling about and day to day driving it is fine, nice sound, totally tolerable and non-intrusive. I live on a private estate full of coffin dodgers and no complaints. On Map 2 it is fantastic. Has a Subaru-esque growl on the mid range. Absolutely wicked and turns heads, a real jeckyl and hyde system ! Was going to change it as felt too loud but love it to bits now ! Happy to demo at Goodwood next week.

Yep, I agree, really great product for the price. I used electrical switch contact cleaner to degrease the window then fitted myself. Start at one side, get it all lined up and press it down well as you go across. Do a couple of dry runs first before lifting the corners of the tape. It kind of snugs down and fills across the screen as you work across peeling the tape as you go. Best aesthetic mod I`ve had so far based on the price. Looks fantastic on white and goes really well with the TRD boot spoiler.

Received, thanks for excellent service.

I bought 2 sets of Eibach pro spacers from Fensport (sorry Abbey better price). On trying to fit them I find an error. The male spigot diameter on my hub is 73mm but the female bore on the spacers is 56mm. Have checked these with a vernier. Everywhere I see hub bore of 56.1mm for GT86 but the male spigot on my front offside hub is definitely 73mm. Fensport think the spacers may be packaged wrong and I am returning them Monday. In the meantime if anyone has any tips then please shout ! I thought 56.1mm bore quoted everywhere on the interweb was this male spigot outside diameter ? Cheers Geoff

15mm front and 20mm rear this is with Rota Boost 17" wheels (can`t remember offset) running OEM tyres and HKS Hipermax 4GT suspension (-17mm front and -16mm rear). I`m now proposing to drop a further 8mm. Looks pretty good.

When I took one of the other wheels off it was blatantly obvious there was a spigot ring fitted to increase O/D from 56 to 73 for the Rota wheels. The first wheel it just looked like one complete component with an O/D of 73mm. Now sorted and thanks for the input, spigot rings off, spacers fitted, spigot rings back on done ! I feel rather embarrassed now

O.K will do, yes I have aftermarket wheels. I had the tyres and wheels swapped over by a local garage. Hadn`t given that a thought. I will double check but it appears I may be a numpty ! Thanks for excellent support.

Yes, the centre bore of the hub is 56.1mm and the bore of the spacer is 56.1mm but how on earth does it sit flush to the oem hub that has a 73mm male lip ?

If I had £1 for every brain dead moron that stepped off the kerb in front of me too busy *staring at their phone, *using their phone, *listening to their Ipod, *screaming at their kids/dog to look for oncoming traffic then I`d be richer than Special K ! *delete as applicable Please can I be second on the panel of 3 worthy people ?

PM sent. Paid, hope to have this on for the Goodwood meet.

No problems to report with HKS Hipermax !