MikeB

Did you have to have it remapped again?

Put down to come please Jeff

Lauren, you will notice the difference having them fitted rather than adjustable bushes. The car feels stiffer and more poised with adjustability. The arms are CNC milled 6061 billet aluminium, the clamp is also 6061 alumninium and the Rose joint and hardware is titanium with teflon coatings. The three bolts are CAD (cadmium) plated. Enjoy your new set up when all fitted 😉

Thank you for bringing meter Jeff. Spec on my system is TD EL manifold with Milltek overpipe and TD resonated system with no Cats. 84/85db at constant 5,000 rpm. On acceleration up to 7,000 it was peaking between 110/116 db. I think that's was what you said and readings taken about half a meter away. Did you say it was 89db at 4,500?

I have just had my geo redone and SPL LCA's fitted. 2 deg's camber front and back with bit of toe in on front and toe out on rear. Car feels a lot more balanced now and you can feel the difference accelerating out of corners. I run goodridge hoses as never like hel

You said you always liked the Stoptech's and at least you tried the Mu's

Nope not a problem, yes the produce dust but nowhere near as much as other pads and does not eat into your wheels

Why don't you try Ferodo DS2500, you have been in my car on track and it breaks really well and no fade and not a lot of brake dust!...they cost the same as oem though £150 for front set

I run standard disc but with goodridge hoses, higher boiling point break fluid and Ferodo 2500s pads. This works fine on track and on road and I am hard on brakes as I drive auto. No real brake fade at Blyton doing track day and sprint there and I need a lot of brake feel as I have hand controls.

Sounds good, count me in

If you just want for road use you can go for Tein Street Advance as they are 5kg front and back spring rate but are also rebuildable and can be revalved. I have EDFC Active with the GPS unit Street Advance . It has functionality of the Pro but only front to back not on all four corners. I have a Brocken back so I need a good ride plus I use the car on track so l need to be able to adjust it to suit. i would recommend downloading the EDFC manual and read through so you understand how it works and how to set it up to get the most out of it. You will also need geometry setting up as coilovers will lower the car as there range can be 20 to 30mm plus so food for thought and what ever you go for will work. If you want to go for a spin I am Cheltenham

Good seeing people today and thanks to @Mike@TD.co.uk for organising

I went springs with stiffer anti roll bars and worst thing ever and ride was awful. changed back to standard anti roll bars with TEIN coilovers but you will need geometry setting up as lowering car throws it out.

They did the test running 18" when some of us run 17" still. There are so many threads on the forums about tyres and which is best but a lot of us run Yokohama's. Yes in part due to TSS MSA tyre list but they work all year round in most conditions and on track whether sprinting or track day. I ran Conti 5's on my previous BMW which were great and the one I have now has Bridgestone Potenza s001 which are crap and no grip dry or wet. horses for courses!!

Don't blame me you are loosing the plot and nothing to do with hair colour 😉

I have 17" x 8" TSW spun forged alloys which are made in America. There web site lists the wheel fittment for BRZ/GT86/FRS and tyre sized recommendations. Yokohama uk are the importors and they also supply locking wheel nuts.

And why not and will make you smile everyday you see your car

Nearly bought this number when I got my GT but like my number plate as a had choice at the time.

I have mfactory 4.67 final drive fitted (standard is 4.1) and best mod you can do for auto as improves drive throughout rev range. Fuel consumption drops a little but not that you will notice. With mfactory you do get a little wine as it's semi helical cut but not as noisy as straight cut.

https://www.msauk.org/assets/196-208commonregulationsforpermittedtyresl-1.pdf

I chose these as I wanted coilover with not to hard spring rate but was ride height adjustable and rebuildable plus damping rate adjustability. The ride is firm but not uncomfortable and I have a rods in my back so anything to hard would be out of the question. I also have Tein's EDFC Active system with gps which you can adjust set up front and back by storing different settings or letting system adjust automatically. Car gets used on road and track and very happy with set up but bear in mind ride quality can be effected by wheel size and tyre.

4.67 transforms the auto into a more usable car and one of the best mods you can do to it. I can't comment on how it effects a manual.

Quick question, since the TD upgrade to turbo have you adjusted you suspension?

Owned cars not that many as had company cars for nearly 30 years but lots of motorbikes Past test in 1984 car list owened between 1984 to 1987 1961 mini van with Austin 1300 GT engine, roll cage, Sprite exhaust, front disc's, mini fin rears 1964 Mini Cooper 1061s 1967 Mini Cooper 1275s 1979 Mini 1275 GT Astra mk1 1300 GT86 bought new 2014. Company cars ranged from Astra mk 2 1.6sr through to BMW's. Worst car Rover 75 diesel! Motorbikes Suzuki GSXR750(1992), Honda Fireblade (1996),race Cresent Suzuki GSXR600,Triumph Daytona(1998), race Kawasaki zxr 400,YamahaR1 (1999), Ducati748 SPS, Suzuki GSXR600(2001), Suzuki GSXR1000k3 (2003), Suzuki GSXR750k4, race Honda CBR600r (2005)

I use Ferodo DS 2500 with goodridge hoses and higher boiling point brake fluid and fine on track and road. http://www.ferodoracing.com/products/car-racing/racing-brake-pads/ds2500/