Lee

You could do it, but the tyre is too wide for the wheel. It won't add grip if that's what you are after, it will also make turn in etc a bit numb and wolloway as there will be added flex to the tyre.

If the car was to have a severe roll where the roof collapsed and I was harnessed in, I would probably end up paralysed. If using a normal 3 point belt then it's a bit better in the sense that it allows you a bit of movement, which might be the difference between walking away and not. Because I track my car a lot I guess I am at higher risk than average joe of having a roll and that's why I personally won't compromise on safety aspects. If I didn't track etc then I probably would use buckets without a cage, but never buckets plus harnesses without one.

No it shows that between 0 and 10 degrees to be optimal. I wouldn't personally fit harnesses without a properly designed harness bar at the very least, much like I wouldn't fit a fixed back bucket seat without a rear cage at least.

When inverted the lap belts are what hold you down. The shoulder straps serve to stop you moving forwards. The picture I posted above is the official FIA standard for harnesses, you can see that is clearly states max angle of 45 degrees which is not recommended.

I assume you are just going 4 point? If so I'd recommend scroth as they have ASM (anti submarine) designed in to the harness. I'd also do it properly with a harness bar at least - agency power is quickly removable but it's pricey at iver £500

Winter tyres ordered for the standard wheels, and spl titanium rear cambers arms (http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/spl-lower-control-arms-1594.html) via RA Motorsport to go along side the Clubsports that are being fitted on the 18th

Go for it (Floof)

Suspicious about what exactly? The sprintex charger is far inferior to Eatons TVS superchargers at the same given sizes (I've no personal experience with HKS but have Rotrex and they are good at what they are designed to do) Cosworths package is the most extensively R&D tested fit and forget 'kit' to be released and you pay extra for that time. IMO I dont feel the kit is overpriced.

Cosworth are using an Eaton TVS blower, roots type but high efficiency. I cant see anywhere whether its the R900 / 1080 / 1320 though. Sprintex's major drawback is that when you approach the rpm limit and go over it it becomes very inefficient, blowing shed loads of hot air. Centrifugal: Rotrex (traction driven) / HKS (gear) / Vortech (gear) are essentially belt driven turbo chargers, all very efficient but by design they dont provide the low end oomph that street drivers in particular want, great track option. Heres the chart from cosworth 2.0 - very nice broad torque spread

What type of driving do you do? What did you feel the problem was with the OEM pads? longetivity?

ok...

Perhaps you should think about it if you are planning keeping the car for a while / past its warranty.

Had your gearbox oil done yet Lauren?

American forums and from my personal car - got it changed at 18k and it was very dark with a metallic sheen to it due to all the particles. Definitely 100% recommended imo..

Wherever you go, get your gearbox oil changed. Toyota say 60k - no way.

Sideways is more fun indeed Adding the rear bar reduces grip at the rear making it seem as if the front has more grip as I've said and you know, will be better at low speed turn ins etc but ultimately slower through higher speed stuff. If you are not chasing laptimes then this is all well and good. I would have tried adding grip to the front personally

haha no way on that one Nigel - be good if it was though! You probably read about light weight crank pulleys being a no no

Are you fitting a front bar to go along with the rear? Beefing up the rear bar over stock will give you more oversteer - assume you know this.

As I said - different strokes for different folks. I tend to keep quick driving contained to track days, only very occasionally will I drive spiritedly on the road. My criteria for a tyre is to perform as well as possible on track whilst being safe to use on the road. Winter tyres will be fitted during the colder months. Its a very general rule of thumb - Labour rates in Europe and Japan are much higher than in China / Asia. Imagine the price of iPhone if assembled in America

I am yep. The mini I co owned lives in manchester and I was driving down to that a couple times per month, pretty much next door neighbours if we were in 'merka! The only real events I am interested in is track days, so blyton, cadwell, croft, oulton and of course knockhill arent all that far away. Work a 4 weeks on 4 weeks off rotation so I never really struggle for time off providing I'm home

The sprintex 210 gets very inefficient if you try and push its envelope, and by that I mean the outlet temps from the blower are very very high so I dont think it is correct for your application. Not convinced the 335 is the answer either due to the intercooling limitations and I personally dont like to try an mask an issue by using water/methanol injection. Cosworths TVS should be pretty good, Kraftwerks C38 Rotrex option on a built engine could be a monster, and Rotrex chargers are very efficient

Theres many good cheap tyres that surpass people expectation for the price. Federal 595RSR's are now control tyre in a couple of race series, they also perform nicely in the wet. The nakangs are also now a control tyre in a race series (mx5 I believe) so I am not overly concerned with them being a dangerous tyre. I am not a tyre snob and didn't chose the Nankangs over the other options, AD08R's were my first choice but rarerims didnt have that tyre available in the size I was after, I was left between 888's (too much of a road compromise) T1R's, and the Nankangs, decided to give them a bash as I said and have been pleasently surprised. Not been on track in the wet yet (next day is November 23rd, knockhill so most likely in the snow ) but driven at sensible speed on the road in the wet, feel was there as was grip. Everyone has a different opinion on what makes a tyre good, different uses and driving styles. Would I buy morongi / lower spec nankangs? No, but when a company releases a new track day tyre then I am interested regardless of manufacturer.

Hey Nigel, good progress so far and nice to see it being done properly You say 'modified to death' 'lowered compression and FI' Whats the 'end goal' (too much apostrophes!) of the build? i.e. Street / Track / Drift / Race etc? I assume by the coil choice it will be road and track? And have you decided on which type of FI you plan on going for?

^ true dat.

Yeah it was the first time I've done knockhill in reverse, I'm not sure if I prefer it in that direction, it was really good. I wasn't sure about buying nankangs either, hankook used to have the same rep etc. I've now used 888, 595rsr, v70a, Dunlop slicks on track between this car and the mini and I don't have a bad work to say about the nankangs, very good tyre (possibly over exaggerated since I went on to them from primacy's) Induction will probably be upgraded to 'forced' haha but I keep changing my mind with it all. If forced it will be supercharged though.