Foulsmell

Nice pics! Apart from the last one. [emoji4]

Mine is a white 62 plate, nav and part leather, 9k miles, bought Nov 2014 from Toyota for £16995.

They probably are and it's just the camera. There are newish laws though which prohibit things on cars that are dangerous to pedestrians either in a crash or just walking past.

If the camera is true it is DEFINITELY illegal.

That spoiler might attract the fuzz.

Why don't you get it replaced under warranty and sell the new one???

Could be right. I was expecting this to be something that would prevent the car from getting dirty by not letting water dry on it. Taking both cars for a spin after washing and drying showed that water that flicked from various places (like the inside of mirrors), splashed along the doors and then dried. So I'm not really sure what this is supposed to do. I would say this isn't really any less work than using Mer polish. With that you can just apply it to the cloth you use for drying the car (and I can get a lot more uses out of that than a small bottle of this stuff). You will get water marks on any product. To stop them you need to rinse the car with filtered water or towel dry it after using tap water.

Here is a quote from a detailing website that may solve your problems. "GYEON Q2M WETCOAT comes pre-diluted to the correct strength for safe exterior use, and should be applied to completely clean, wet surfaces at the end of your usual wash process. For best results, spray GYEON Q2M WETCOAT onto small sections at a time (it’s safe for use on all exterior surfaces) as thinly and evenly as possible (as an approximate guide you should be able to treat an average-sized car using less than 100 ml of product) and then leave it to dwell for 1-2 minutes (less in direct sunlight) before rinsing it off thoroughly (the use of a pressure washer is recommended). Once all sections are treated rinse one final time (to ensure every last trace of residue is removed) and then towel the car dry, or else rinse it again with filtered water if you intend to leave it to dry naturally. If you find yourself using too much product try misting each panel just two to three times and then spread the product as thinly and evenly as possible using a fresh wash mitt (soak it with warm water first) before leaving it to dwell and then rinsing off."

A believe a wax would be better on the black car and you're BRZ. One you know it will work and two you will get better depth of colour, gloss and flake pop.

Hate to be picky but it's not a polish. [emoji1]

Just a thought. It's generally considered that a wax is better for darker cars like your red to give it a better wet gloss look. It's not all about how hydrophobic it is. Collinite 915 is brilliant and one tin will last you forever.

Pretty much anything strong enough to remove tar quickly will remove sealant unfortunately. It's the nature of the products. Yep this. It will remove the wax and sealant layers you've put on but then that's good because you will want to apply new coats anyway to clean, contaminant free paint or polish it.

I get away with doing it once every 2 years. In between you can use chemicals to remove the contaminants. These are just spray on rinse off. Like ironx to remove the fall out and Tardis to remove tar spots and biological contaminants. To be honest I use the sprays even before claying as it makes the claying quicker.

Yeah, except that's not what the dyno chart shows. That would translate the whole line up a substantial amount more than it is. Perhaps it's corrected for gear ratio? I don't know for sure but I've seen gear ratios on some dynos so I'm sure Mike from TD can shed some light on it but it makes sense to just measure the engine output and not how it's multiplied by the FD and that's why it might not show on the plot.

I've had it in for over 6 months. Yes you are right about all of those things but the difference is negligible. It's only 300 revs higher.

Based on 175 it's 24.5 torques. Definitely noticeable and definitely no dyno error.

You should expect a slight whine at low revs but nothing to be concerned about.

Old protection stripped off. Chemical detox from fallout and tar. Paint was in good shape so no correction needed. Then 2 coats of AF Tough Coat.

So does a cassette deck. The scooby one is a joke

Ouch [emoji16]

How flippant. It came in because diesel owners were removing DPFs. So it now applies to both petrol and diesel. All I'm saying is it's a technical fail but it hasn't stopped removing the 2nd cat. Just do what you like [emoji2]

we only need 1 cat for UK MOT purposes, it's other markets that are stricter on the emissions (particularly cold start emissions) which is why there are 2 of them and that annoying cold start up Errr wrong. I have a secondary decat pipe which is clear that it doesn't have a cat and passed my MOT and it wasn't one of those fiddled jobbies that some people do Sent from my XT1572 using Tapatalk As do I. But as you can see it is a fail. It's all down to the testers knowledge wether there should be 2 cats or one. Just because yours passed doesn't make it right. I know testers that will pass a full decat.

we only need 1 cat for UK MOT purposes, it's other markets that are stricter on the emissions (particularly cold start emissions) which is why there are 2 of them and that annoying cold start up Errr wrong.

I can confirm this worked for mine to get it through the mot. It may of passed the emissions test but it could still be a technical fail because two cats are not present.

The 2nd cat is too far away from the engine to pass a normal MOT test as it won't get hot enough. If they rag it around for a bit then yeah probably. Make sure you go to a tester that will be open to getting it through.