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For Sale: Toyota GT86 2014 - Reluctant SaleSelling my much-loved Toyota GT86 due to an unexpected overseas job opportunity. This car has been a joy to own and has been meticulously cared for during my short time with it.Key Details: Year: 2014 Mileage: 62,000 miles (2,000 under my ownership) Condition: Excellent, with Full Service History (FSH) Recent Service: May 2024 by Abbey Motorsport (details below) Recent Maintenance (May 2024): Brand new Reyland 330mm J-hook discs Ferodo DS2500 brake pads Brand new Tuning Developments oil cooler kit Oil filter and fresh engine oil About the Car:As a passionate car enthusiast, I’ve spared no expense in maintaining and improving this GT86. The car has over £17,000 of carefully selected modifications, with an additional £3,000 spent recently to perfect its performance. It’s always been run on Shell V-Power, properly warmed up and cooled down, and never tracked under my ownership (though it’s track-ready if desired).Performance & Modifications: Engine: Tuning Developments Stage 1 turbo kit Stage 1 ECU tune Tuning Developments resonated exhaust UEL manifold and headers Decat downpipe Brand new Tuning Developments oil cooler kit Brand new battery Gearbox: Exedy Stage 1 clutch and flywheel Mtec uprated shifter and clutch springs Brakes: AP Racing AP9200 brake kit Brand new Reyland 330x28 rotors (J-hook discs, curved veins) Ferodo DS2500 brake pads Fresh DOT 10 brake fluid Suspension & Handling: Tein Flex A coilovers Cusco front and rear strut braces Whiteline adjustable anti-roll bars (front & rear) Super Pro rear control arms and adjustable toe arm kit Wheels & Tyres: Enkei RPF1 bronze alloy wheels Brand new Michelin P4s (front) and P5 Sports (rear) New motorsport-style steel wheel studs Exterior: Vland rear lights Tinted windows all around Side skirts Interior: Carbon fiber door handles Suede steering wheel Drift button handbrake Oil pressure gauge Lufi X1 OBD2 digital dash display Additional Information:This GT86 comes with a complete history of receipts and paperwork for all modifications, services, and maintenance. The car is a perfect blend of daily drivability and track capability, ready for its next enthusiast owner.Price: £16,995 reflective of its modifications and care. Serious inquiries only, please.Feel free to contact me with questions or to arrange a viewing. I am based in Mill Hill, North London (NW7).This is a truly reluctant sale of a car I had planned to keep for much longer.

I recently purchased the Cusco steering brace and installed it, before my car even left the garage I'd also managed to get hold of the TRD bracing kit which includes another set of steering rack braces. Following some discussions I've decided to use the TRD steering brace. Therefore my cusco steering brace is available. The brace has been installed on my car, never driven on (the car never left the ramps) and then uninstalled, so the sum total of time on my car was 1 week. They are very easy to install, using the stock bolts, but I needed a breaker bar to get the OEM bolts released. This is what the look like installed (Passenger side) This is the drivers side off the car, showing both sections roughly assembled. I will also include the instruction sheet, but it's basically a simple install and the OEM bolts should be tightened to 120nm (same as the wheels). The dirt is underseal off my car. Where can I buy them brand new? Fensport has them for ~£92 + postage: https://www.fensport.co.uk/collections/toyota-gt86-2017-on/products/steering-rack-mount-reinforcing-brackets-cusco-gt86-brz What do they do? From my research Steering braces tighten up the steering on initial turn-in during high speed corning. They are thought of highly and frequently seem to be named as one of the best brace types to install. Alternatives mentioned are poly brushes. There's also some positive feedback for poly brushes and braces on the steering rack. I have both now fitted. How much am I looking for? I'm looking for £75 ono and they are near Stoke-on-Trent. Postage? I've no idea TBH, I don't live near a post office so pick up would be my preferred option. Assuming my car isn't on the my lift I might be able to help fit them. Because they are potentially more track orientated, I'm at Oulton Park on November 15th and again on December 17th and I can bring them along. But I'm not against postage if necessary and we can sort something out.

Hello! I just thought I would let you know, that we currently have a couple of CUSCO roll cages for our cars. If anyone's interested in a cage, let me know, we can order any set up from CUSCO Japan, but these are the ones we have in stock at the moment: Safety 21 - 4 point - £398.78 D1 - 4 point - £448.62 Safety 21 - 7 point (dodge dash) - £747.70

Good morning all, For those who do not know, Part-Box (Coordsport Ltd) is the main European dealer of many brands, including CUSCO Japan. I just want to let you know, that whether it's a Roll Cage, Suspension components e.g. sway bays, coilovers, engine parts, LSDs or just interior accessories, we've got you covered! Cusco is one of the best manufacturers in the after market industry, and they have been around since 1977! They know what they are doing, and have been involved in World Rally championship, Formula racing and GT racing. So, please let me know if there is something you want, a discount is certain!

Hello, We have this Cusco Engine Oil Cooler for sale. It's a great little thing as you can see on the graph. Definitely useful for someone who gets their engine really hot. Part number: 965 012 AN Prince inc. VAT: RRP £640.32 Clearance discount + your 10% off club discount & Free next day delivery = £475

Cusco LCAs off my car, allows rear camber adjustment. £260ono collected from Nottingham

When I first got the car, worst weather for it! First real pickup for the 86, Tein Street Flex coilovers and Cusco LCA. M7 Japan exhaust fitted, looks like a work of art and sounds incredible. I picked up some Rays TE37s Beatrush Brace and Master cylinder brace. ARC titanium Shift Knob Valenti Light's ARC Airbox i picked up at the ARC factory in Japan. Work Meister S1R 18 x 9.5/ Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres

Hi All, After reading through the supplied guide I decided to follow it but I did do a few things differently, I will also go in to a bit more detail for those that are considering the OEM Audio+ kit (which despite a few issues fits very well) I believe that my issues were perhaps due to me not providing as much info as I should have and the fact they were pushing to get the kit to me before Christmas. Once I get my studio mic I will record some good quality audio from the car so that you can get a feel to how crisp it sounds. I will add you can achieve a better install for the money with aftermarket components. However if you want something that fits superbly well in to the factory headunit with a loom already made up, this is probably a kit you should consider... That said, it doesn't sound bad and definitely packs a punch. The Guide Step 1 First off you want to do the following: 1. Unlock both doors 2. Open the boot 3. lift the bonnet up This is because you are going to disconnect the battery, if you don't do this you are sure to blow a few fuses along the way and you will curse yourself when sods law you don't have any spares in your garage So disconnect the wires from the negative terminal, tuck them to the right of the battery so they don't pop back up and re-attach themselves.. Something they will want to do after being on the terminal for so long. Step 2 Next you want to head over to either your driver or passenger seat and remove both the headunit surround and the headunit itself.. To do this get a flathead screwdriver and a thin microfibre clock of some kitchen paper will do also (to prevent any unwanted scratches) If you are a rebel, feel free to do without. The below image shows where to place the flathead screddriver, there will be a small hole on the right side of the surround begin prising it off from here. For reference here is where the clips are situated on the surround Once this is off you will need to remove the four 10mm Hex nuts holding the headunit in place, shown below in the image Disconnect the following cables, you may want to reference this image later when connecting it all back up, though it shouldn't be a major issue! Step 3 Next you will need to remove the drivers side trim pieces at the front (In the majority of aftermarket installs you would be doing this for both sides to prevent alternator whine, this loom will only run up one side) Place your hand roughly where mine is in the image and pull straight up. I wouldn't be too worried about snapping it, it will take some pulling and is fairly flexible. Work along until it is off. Next you will need to remove the trim piece around the bonnet catch, there is one pop rivet and two green panel clips holding this on, Undo the pop rivet shown in the image. Then get your fingers under the panel next to the door seal and push it out and towards the pedals Note: Check both green clips come off of the chassis, if one is left on, remove it with either a clip removal tool or a flathead screwdriver(using a microfiber again) Step 4 Getting there... now on to the rear, we need to remove the seat and the rear trim piece First loosen the door seal around the back trim Next up there is a 10mm hex Nut butting in to an L bracket holding the seat in place, remove this With one hand push down on the back of the seat, with your other hand grab the L bracket and pull up, this will unhinge the seat How there is one pop rivet which was hidden by the seat you will see which is shown below, remove this. Drop the rear seats down, you will see two pop rivets, remove these also. That's all the pop rivets fixing the rear trim in place, unfortunately there are a fair few panel clips The way I removed this panel, on the left side of the panel where the door seal was there will be a gap along this edge, begin pulling here. Pull at the lower locations shown here also Are you still struggling? Lets hope not, if you are, here is an image below for reference of where the clips are situated on the panel... Ok we are going a bit too quick, by now around an hour should have passed if it's your first time removing these pieces, if not they tend to come off a little easier and you can do this in around 30 mins when you get good at it Now go grab yourself a cup of tea and feel please that you got this far hopefully with no broken clips... Step 5 Now we have all the trim pieces out we can start with the small amount of chassis modification that needs to be done There will be two speed nuts, attached to the Subwoofer enclosure, get these off as we need to slip these on to some brackets.. Note: You will end up with two pop rivets left over after the install, this is where they have come from! The first bracket can be found where the bottom pop rivet came out of that was holding the rear trim piece in place, there will be two holes on this and a bend on the bracket. Grab a pair of needle nosed pliers and bend it so that it is relatively straight. Don't worry about scratching it, you won't see it and honestly the speed nut will scratch it anyway.... Attach Speed nut to the bracket Now in the boot there will be a pop rivet directly inside, next to the rubber seal, pop it off, pull back the carpet around the hole and there will be a bracket. Place the speed nut on here It's important to place the correct speed nut on the correct bracket, the one on the allen bolt goes on to the bracket next to the rubber seal... Step 6 Now we need to route the main loom, infact the only loom, and this is where my guide will differ. OEM + say to put the trim back after routing the cable, we won't be doing this until after we have got the wire through the grommet as it's a tight fit and will just waste your time when you realise you don't have enough loom at the bulkhead right? Correct One end of the loom will have 3 multiple pinned connectors.. From memory I believe they were a 6 pin, 10 pin and a 12 pin. This is irrelevant in the grand scheme of things, unless you have a fetish for even numbers on electrical connectors.... We will start with the end with the most connectors rub it behind the seatbelts and in to the boot leaving roughly as much as i have, for those with the normal OEM+ Install you just need to leave enough loom to get behind the enclosure. For those with the Active suspension loom it will split, the Amplifier is mounted on the subwoofer enclosure however the DSP Amplifier will be placed on the left side of the boot (We will get to this later) You will have an earth wire on the subwoofer loom (yellow shrink skin over the crimp terminal). Just beflow the rear quarter window is a gold connector, this is your earth. Undo this 10mm hex nut and place the earth wire on to of the earth wires already there. Now that is done we can run the cable through the cable tunnel, there is a which oblong tube* (Do these even exist ) It has 3 white clips running along it, unclip this and fold it back, the carpet is stapled to it. Now I will apologise here, i'm missing a picture for you, I forgot one (doh)... Within this tunnel there are more clips, undo these and tuck the loom in to this and clip it back up. It will go in from the boot like this And come out in the drivers footwell like this (run it to where I have annotated with red circle) Next up OEM+ say to cable tie the loom to the grey cable shown below, this is located above the pedals. I would honestly leave it loose for now Step 7 This part is probably the trickiest part of the install, they don't go in to enough detail on how to successfully get through the grommet, luckily this one isn't tricky if you know how to do it! Above the pedals to the right will be this grommet (use a torch) there is a nipple on the other side that when cut will make a convenient hole (presumably there for the JBL OEM install) the hole is unfortunately on the top side of the grommet, i've marked roughly where it is below. Now that you know where is is , head out to the bonnet and adjacent to the Master Brake Cylinder you will see the grommet with a convenient nipple on it, cut the tip with a stanley knife, the guide says to cut it all off, just put a slice half way through. This will be fine. This is now the tricky bit, we need to get the power cables through this grommet, there is a 14 Gauge and a 12 Gauge cable so luckily not all that thick. Get a metal rod (which is not too thick and can bend but not too thin so that it bends when forge is on it. Get some electrical wire around 40cm in length each. Slice the elctrical wire and take one wire out of it. Tape this and the metal rod together with electrical tape. Now push the metal rob through the grommet. It should go through easily, if its not, wiggle it until it slides through freely. I can assure you there is already a hole there for it so no need to force it! If you force it you may slice one of the electrical wires already running through it. Once it's through pull it through to the other side. Now remove the metal rod and tape the power cables from the loom to the electrical wire. Go back to the bonnet side and pull it through. (I've probably saved you around an hour of crying trying to get it through Step 8 Now that is all done, you need to route the loom up above the pedals and in to the headunit bay. I honestly can't get pictures of where to route these, but directly to the right if you look in the hole where the headunit came out of you should be able to see the pedals. It's best to get another pair of hands to grab the loom as you feed it up. Once that's done, conenct up the OEM+ loom to the OEM loom as shown below Next plug the OEM+ Loom in to the Headunit and also the other OEM loom connectors which are sitting around (Should be 3 of these) Once done it should look something like this.. Well done, now put the headunit back in! and clip the trim back on! Guide to be continued....